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Posts: 504
Location: Ludington, MI | I just picked up a 1986 Color C-Lector at a garage sale for $5 in mint condition. So my question is, with people going to bubblegum and bright purple lures for muskies and the Color C-Lector kind of being the birth of these nasty colors for bass fishing, do you guys think the visibility scale they use translates from bass to muskies? Any esocid opthamologists out there?
(Yes, it's a beautiful cold front day and I'm bored) |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Depends which side of the boat you drop the thing over. |
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| You shouldn't need a machine to tell you what color bait to throw. Three main factors water clarity, cloud cover/light conditions, and feel. Clear water means more natural darker water means brighter baits. Bright days bright baits dark days dark baits and lastly throw what makes you feel confidant, color is over emphasized anyways. |
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Posts: 225
Location: Ontario, Canada | I picked up a Colour-C-Lector at a club swap meet! I plan to get it out some time on a fishing trip after a few beers for a laugh!!! |
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Posts: 218
| To complete your purchase, you need to buy my brand new in the box Ph monitor.
Edited by Southshore 6/25/2011 8:58 PM
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Posts: 504
Location: Ludington, MI | Actually, they had one of those too! |
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Posts: 994
Location: Minnesota: where it's tough to be a sportsfan! | Just a point of interest the sensor on the end of the tube had to be kept moist with saline in order for the C-Lector to work. They had a cap that fit over the end and you filled it and put it on to keep the sesor good. Mine dried out over the winter the first year. They originally sold for around 100$ so 5$ isn't too bad. |
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Posts: 1916
Location: Greenfield, WI | As a bait is cast, it goes from surface of the water to, say for point of discussion, down to 10', and back up to the surface.
At what depth do you select a color? |
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Posts: 112
Location: Nielsen's Fly-In Lodge, on Rowan Lake | Had a color-c-lector back in the day and in clear water it says RED dirty water use the fluorescent color scale red in clear water is always a first choice jmo. |
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Posts: 45
| Some of those also had a temp sensor on them to find the thermocline. |
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Posts: 504
Location: Ludington, MI | I'm eager to take it to the tannin-stained waters of the UP and see what it says. I always do well on red, copper, gold and yellow up there. Still kills me that Panther Martin stopped making copper blades for my brookies. Like someone else said, just something to fool around with when fishing is slow. Thanks for the responses. |
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| I had a colorClector I bought back in 1980. It was the old-style round model. I used it until 2004 when it died from old age. I hated seeing it go and had a burial at sea. I replaced it with the newer (at the time) rectangular model but lost it overboard three years later. I think it's safe to say I have a lot of experience with them.
Here's the rub: Most nay-sayers don't know how to use them. They have unrealistic expectations regarding them. And they apply their use to species that generally will provide lower results than with others.
I fish walleye, smallmouth bass, largemouth bass, and brown trout in that order. This device is terrific for walleye, especially if applied to jigs and crawler harnesses, and to a lesser degree, stickbaits. Wisconsin rivers, such as the Menominee, Peshtigo, Fox, as well as others, and Green Bay are places where crawler harnesses with beads & blades selected by using a ColorClector will definitely make a difference. A BIG difference.
Numerous posts commenting on all the "problems" aren't aware that the 'devil is in the details'. If you have been marking fish at a depth of twenty feet in 45' of water, you need to drop your probe down no further than 20'. I would check the reading at 20' and again at 10', and "split the difference". I would select my colors and run my harnesses at a depth of 10' - 15' as suspended walleye will look up when feeding. These waters tend to be gin-clear. In stained water I would run them at 15' -20'.
I will retest about every two hours. Clouds can move in (or out), you may be trolling over sand instead of shale or muck. These can change your readings and you need to adjust your colors accordingly. I make my own harnesses and keep at least fifty pre-made on the boat that I can switch blades on.
However, results on small mouth have varied from fair to good. Largemouth seem to to be more motion motion than color sensitive. Both have responded to color selections but strictly with lizards, worms, or maribous.
Lake brown trout don't seem to give a rats-nice try. Go figure.
BTW,....the PH meter is useless for the aforementioned bodies of water. They all have ideal PH levels. It is useful on the small pot-hole lakes found throughout Wisconsin that are bogging in. The temperature device is useless as a frog with an umbrella. I have a very accurate mercury thermometer made for fishing that gives the temp and depth. It is dead-on and the colorClector doesn't come even close.
With the fishery you have up in Luddington, you should slaughter the 'eyes up there with a colorClector. If not, there's always high explosives.
Good fishing!
A. Perrus
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Posts: 66
| i also had one years ago. i think they may help. i just have so much stuff i didn't want to bother with it after it shot craps. interesting about gin clear water, it shows that red (fire engine red) is the color to use. the lake i checked that on the water was so clear the needle didn't move at all until a wave went over the top of the probe. then it showed red. went to a local bait shop later and was asking about the lake. the owner of the bait shop said, without any input from me, that it is a 'red' lake, meaning that the color red was known to work well. |
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Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | I have all kinds of color selectors in my tackle box and they all catch musky. I only have to wait for the musky to "select" which one they want at that given moment. And YES, color does work.
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