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Posts: 6
| I've developed a VERY BAD allergy to epoxy, so I can't even be around the stuff anymore. I'm going to finish my glide baits with three coats of cyanoacrylate glue. It's not quite as tough, but I'll deal.
My question is, when I'm first sealing the wood, should I use the same CA glue method seen here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zsJXC-17rU
Or should I opt for a 20 minute soak in a 50/50 mix of satin spar urethane and mineral spirits? Any advantages of one over the other? They should both hold paint fine. I was debating just using the CA glue because I'll already have it on hand, so it's the cheaper option.
Thanks. Great forum, too! |
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Posts: 6
| Nothing? |
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Posts: 1529
| depends on wood specie. we use lacquer sand sealer. pm me |
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| I don’t do a lot of wood sealing, just some prototypes now and then. When I do I just use Kilz primer. I’m not sure how well they hold up in the long run, but they hold up fine for their limited use. That CA stuff seems dangerous to work with. The fumes are pretty nasty too. I build stick and tissue balsa rc planes with it and if I'm using it a lot I'll get a sore throat and headache. If you’re going to experiment I’d have some de-bonder on hand. |
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| I use Sherwin Williams Barrier Coat. It's a sealer and primer in one. Two dips and it's like painting on an eggshell.
Beaver |
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Posts: 6
| I considered all options, and I ended up going with CA glue using the method in the youtube video in my first post. It was a breeze, and the wood (red oak) sealed like a champ. For small scale stuff like this, I don't know why it isn't more popular.
I found oak really easy to work with as far as carving and shaping. I'm just using stainless screw eyes, no through wire, so I wanted a wood that could stand up over the long haul, and perhaps not need quite so much lead.
I'll post pictures in a new thread in a week or so when they're painted and complete. |
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Posts: 480
| I can't remember the last time I caught a muskie on a custom made pen but the nice thing is one could easily write it down. there are way better options than ca glue. |
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Posts: 6
| Hilarious.
I'm not trying to make the finest possible glider. The driving force behind my project is to make ten or so on the cheap - but not so cheap as to fall apart after a good fight. Super glue is not as tough as epoxy, I know, I've made a cedar strip canoe and glassed it with West Systems. But CA is still #*^@ tough - especially in layers. Also, woodworkers finish pens and wood rings in CA glue pretty commonly, and these are items that are handled daily for years at a go. |
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Posts: 4266
| The CA glue might be a good sealer, but I've never had lood luck painting on a shiny surface like the video shows. I'd put on the 3 layers and then spray on 2 coats of primer after I roughed up the blank with the 800 sandpaper or steel wool. Paint needs something to adhere to, so I'd stay away from painting on a shiny surface. |
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Posts: 38
Location: Germany | Hi,
I think one problem is the cyanoacrylat base. Most cyano glues are not waterproof. The dust during hardening is harmfull and not good for your healthy.
You can try another method. You can impregnate wood so that it is waterproof. You don't need a primer, a sealer or a coat. For this procedure you need a chemical that is used in all clothings made of cotton. This stuff prevent the clothing against peeling of the cotton fibers. The name is "DMDHEU" or "Dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea". If you modify your wood with this chemical the wood doesn't soak water. The chemical isn't harmfull. I thing if you have a look in the knife maker scene you find some more informations about modifying wood for handles.
Tight Lines, Dietmar
Edited by dietmar 8/12/2012 5:34 AM
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Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | I too use Sherwyn Williams barrier coat.
Used it for years when painting commercially. Used it on the Bobbies, Suicks and several others when I painted them.
Good stuff.
You might try an adhesion promoter if you really don't want to buff. But I would still buff with 800 grit first. Since Beav has built his own lures and I haven't he will know for sure. Beav made darn good lures.
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Posts: 4266
| What you mean "MADE?"
I have another appointment with the pump doctor tomorrow for another adjustment. Every time they get it closer to being right and eventually I'll be able to spend time on my feet making lures and doing everything else necessary. Right now I have hundreds and hundreds of body styles traced on different kinds of woods for making both gliders and cranks. When they get things right, I'll be cutting, sanding, routering, weighting and painting and The Merry Pollack will be smiling again. They continue to remind me to take it easy or I'll screw everything and go back to square one. I'm glad this summer was so freakin hot, because temps in my painting/work shop were way too hot to work in it, so there was no temptation for me to fight. I'm hoping to actually do several things come this fall and actually start making some gliders and cranks again. When I get some to the priming point, you can bet there will be some coming your way.
Beaver |
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Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | Hey Beav,
You the man. Real glad to hear things are better than they were.I didn't know you were still making any baits due to the pain you been living with. My Doc took me off the " endangered specie" list and said to go slow but I can go back to the gym and get toned up again. I scaled the darn wall again for my 70th Bday. My age and several surgeries later I can still cut the mustard. Have been a very lucky man. I would be honored to have a couple of them when you get a chance. I still haven't painted those original perkas as yet. Saving them for a special occasion I guess. Am back in a man basket 50 feet up welding on building columns again. All out of position work on the site right now.
You keep going bud, people want your lures and we both know that. You are right with the prismatic effects for scales and basing. Gotta love that stuff. You need anything Beav just let me know. Thanks much to you and the rest of the fellows for standing by me. Good bunch of guys and I'm proud to associate with you all.
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Posts: 6
| Well, it all worked out. Red oak body, SS screw eyes, Hobby Lobby snap-in teddy bear eyes with the paint scraped off the backing and repainted, spray cans, drilling and pouring lead, and good ole super glue as both a wood sealer and epoxy coat. I just finished my prototype. I've since improved my gill stencils and refined my spray can skills, but I'm pleased. I've got eight more ready for paint.
Edited by drastic_quench 10/10/2012 10:21 PM
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Posts: 6
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Posts: 1224
Location: Okoboji | looks good!
i will have to try that sherwin williams stuff...i do a thinned epoxy sealer right now and it is a pain in the butt. |
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| CA is a very poor option for sealing a bait against water as water attacks it. I have a background in industrial adhesives and would advise against it.
I use a 2 part product that is used for sealing rotten wood. I can't remember the name off the top of my head, but it works pretty well.
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