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Posts: 52
| I currently am running both of my humminbird units off of my starting battery. I am having trouble with one of the units powering off when I restart the motor throughout the day.
Thinking about hooking at least one of the humminbirds up to trolling motor batteries. The trolling motor is set up as a 24 volt system with two batteries. Can I just hook up to one of the batteries for running the depthfinder or will this cause problems? |
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| same thing happens with my two units when i start up - your starter battery is either wearing down or just not big enough for a full day of fishing. i'd highly recommend replacing the starter battery before you go messing with wiring on the 24 volt system. IMO it might work on paper but the potential for frying your unit or starting an electrical fire (been through 2 back in the day) will increase greatly. |
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Location: 31 | Guest - 10/15/2012 1:33 PM
same thing happens with my two units when i start up - your starter battery is either wearing down or just not big enough for a full day of fishing. i'd highly recommend replacing the starter battery before you go messing with wiring on the 24 volt system. IMO it might work on paper but the potential for frying your unit or starting an electrical fire (been through 2 back in the day) will increase greatly.
Good answer... agree 100%. My guess is that the battery is wearing down like guest says... plus it's cooler and just takes that little bit more now to turn over the engine. I just posted this on the interference thread this morning;
"Yeah, the deep cycle battery as a big motor deal is something that I have to take a closer look at down the road. Although I've never had a problem starting this Yamaha 250 4 stroke with the deep cycle, I have had all three HD 10s shut off simultaneously when I start the big motor (too much draw with the start surge I suspect). As long as I remember to shut off one of the 10s at the helm when I'm casting no problems though.
It's kind of ironic because part of the reason I went with the deep cycle instead of a true crank was some concern (minor issue) with the electronics/radio depleting the battery when I did a lot of casting. Like most things... just when you think you solved one problem, you just create a different one. Haha... this one I'll be living with for a while considering the cost of the battery." Slight correction: not that it matters much... I think only one or two of the units turn off come to think of it. It depend on how long I was casting and if I had my radio on.
It's too late for me... but you can still probably save yourself by just getting the correct new battery.
Edited by Jerry Newman 10/15/2012 4:06 PM
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Posts: 797
Location: North Central IL USA | muskyjeff84 - 10/15/2012 1:00 PM
I currently am running both of my humminbird units off of my starting battery. I am having trouble with one of the units powering off when I restart the motor throughout the day.
Has it always been like this or is this something new? |
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Posts: 52
| I originally had the 1158 in the bow and the 958 at the console and everything seemed to work fine. Shortly after I switched the 1158 to the console I started to have problems. Also, when both are running the voltage displayed on the 958 bow unit is higher and that one never turns off by itself. Could the wiring to the console be too light? |
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Location: 31 | muskyjeff84 - 10/15/2012 1:00 PM
I currently am running both of my humminbird units off of my starting battery. I am having trouble with one of the units powering off when I restart the motor throughout the day.
Thinking about hooking at least one of the humminbirds up to trolling motor batteries. The trolling motor is set up as a 24 volt system with two batteries. Can I just hook up to one of the batteries for running the depthfinder or will this cause problems?
I didn't realize you wanted to RE-hook one of the birds... you can run one (or both) of the units off the number one battery in your 24V, obviously this has to be properly fused. I don't know about that light wire causing the problem? I'd guess that it's more of a draw down issue from cranking the motor, but I'm really not an electrical expert either. |
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Posts: 307
| Yes the wiring to the counsel is probably too light. Is the 11 on the dash wired to the fuse block? If so wrire directly to the battery. Big units should always go direct. Reduces interference issues and voltage problems like it sounds your having. Even if your battery is going out, and I. Would have it load tested, they do it free at most auto stores, I would still wire direct. |
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Location: 31 | Plunker - 10/16/2012 8:44 AM
Yes the wiring to the counsel is probably too light. Is the 11 on the dash wired to the fuse block? If so wire directly to the battery. Big units should always go direct. Reduces interference issues and voltage problems like it sounds your having. Even if your battery is going out, and I. Would have it load tested, they do it free at most auto stores, I would still wire direct.
I reread the question and missed that you switched the units and not the wires, sorry. If you're going to do it right and rewire both to the crank like Plunker recommends, you might as well add an on/off switch and fuse them separately at the helm for convenience and access. Good call on just getting the battery tested! |
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Posts: 52
| Thanks for all of the help. |
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Posts: 229
| I have the same problem with my graphs shutting down at startup when the starting battery gets low. Usually happens when I fish with both graphs and lights at night for a long period and never run the motor. I charge up the starting battery and problem solved.
John |
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Posts: 5874
| 1. Go to the biggest dual pupose battery you can fit for a cranking/electronics battery.
2. Wires from the console supply should be plenty big for most sonars.
3. If you wire directly to the battery, make sure you fuse AT the battery. Fusing is to protect the wiring from burning up. Does no good if the fuse is at the device. |
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Location: 31 | Shep - 10/18/2012 11:16 AM
3. If you wire directly to the battery, make sure you fuse AT the battery. Fusing is to protect the wiring from burning up. Does no good if the fuse is at the device.
I can understand the reason to fuse close to the battery to protect the wire, but the component would still be protected even though it's not text book. I admit I should have had more detail with that recommendation though.
IMHO there should be a build in seperate fuse panel for today's electronics because by the time you get through running and fusing each component individually close to the battery, it can get redundant and crowded back there.
I personally found it easier to run one heavier gauge (fused) wire from the battery to a on/off switch at the helm. Then from the on/off switch to a new fuse panel with separate handy plug in type fuses for each of the Lowrance components that I have.
Maybe I'm wrong but I just figured there would be less chance for interference this way and obviously less wires running back and forth to the battery. I also like the idea that when switched off there is zero power to the fuse box. I remember reading on here that people were (maybe) having problems with dead batteries from the GPS searching for a signal while the unit was turned off.
Here's a picture...
Edited by Jerry Newman 10/18/2012 2:05 PM
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 IMAG0193.jpg (23KB - 138 downloads)
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Posts: 1096
Location: Hayward, WI | Make sure that your connections at the battery are clean and tight. I would recommend taking all of the wires off of the terminal and clean the terminal and wire ends. Install a SS star washer, then motor wire, then acc wires and use a nut tightened with a wrench. Amazing how many electrical issues could be prevented by doing this... |
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