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Posts: 30
| Looking to enlarge and raise my front casting deck on an old 16 foot alumacraft fishing boat.
I am curious if it is necessary to use the more expensive MGP or if the treated plywood will work just fine.
Thanks, |
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Posts: 489
| Go marine. Treated may eat away your aluminum |
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Location: 31 | If you're going to keep your boat covered or out of the weather when stored? I recommend using a 4 or 5 ply CDX fir plywood, it costs and weighs less and the treated is really just overkill. Once you get the panels cut out just give it a coat of exterior paint and it should out last the boat.
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Posts: 633
Location: Madison, WI | like Jerry said if you keep the boat covered or inside you dont need the marine. I have made two casting decks both out of treated and neither one has shown any signs of rot. |
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Posts: 559
| MGP is more stable than treated ply . Ihave done both and MGP will stay flat as treated ply might warp on you. |
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Location: 31 |
Good point on the warp, that's why I recommended the fir because it will not not warp like pine, and OSB is junk. Just so we are clear, I'm saying you don't need treated plywood unless the boat sits open and uncovered outside. If you paint the CDX fir (that's an exterior grade plywood to begin with), that's water proofing it plenty... and your boat will be lighter. Pick-up a sheet of either treated and then a sheet of CDX at the lumber yard, you will notice a big difference in weight. |
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Posts: 203
Location: Minnesota | In my excessive research for proper type of plywood to use in boat renovation... I have come across plenty of resounding NO for using green treated when using it in an aluminum boat... Reason for this is that the specific chemicals used to treat the wood is corrosive to Aluminum...
Best advice I have gotten repeatedly... You want to do it yourself, do it the right the first time!!!
What I would do is to weld together an aluminum frame made out of angled aluminum with proper support underneath, then get 1/2" plywood, cut it to size and seal it with polyester/epoxy resin then fiberglass it for extra strength... You can then wrap it in carpet... That way it'll last for a very long time, be strong, and easily removed when needed... |
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Location: 31 |
Although I agree that's the best way with the above post, (how could you not, its professional grade) that's asking a lot from an average guy to accomplish in his garage.
I've put casting platforms in two different boats of mine, both were 18' aluminum deep V. The last one I used 1/2" painted fir with cedar and aluminum supports keeping an an eye towards reducing weight wherever possible, mainly because I had made my previous boat decks too heavy.
My last boat was an 18 Crestliner and it functioned and held up great for 10 years until I sold the boat, and should hold up for another 10 years if the guy keeps it out of the weather when stored.
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Posts: 203
Location: Minnesota | Jerry... thats what good friends are for... Im sure everyone has a friend or an acquaintance who can do welding, give advices on epoxy/fiberglassing, etc etc... I have no problem doing all of this listed myself except that I dont have a TIG welder... but I have friends who could do that for me... so its all good... |
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Location: 31 | No worries, just passing on what I know worked for me. I thought your post was excellent, but maybe out of the reach of most people interested in doing this type of work for themselves. I also thought the incompatibility of the treated plywood was an excellent point, same with it warping. |
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Posts: 203
Location: Minnesota | Now... that could be a great business venture... making custom deck extension for those "city" people... LOL Got the $$$ for a start-up??? |
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Location: 31 | Somebody's already beat you to it. I wanted a little wider permanent rear casting deck and his “running rod rack” fit the bill perfectly.
Excellent product, service and prices. [email protected]
Check out the replacing carpet thread... I don't think that's Marine ortreated plywood in those pictures.
Edited by Jerry Newman 4/4/2012 10:18 AM
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