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Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> How to avoid getting bubbles with e-tex??? |
Message Subject: How to avoid getting bubbles with e-tex??? | |||
Jeff Jaras |
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Posts: 4 | Having some trouble getting small bubbles with envirotex. I was wondering if there is something I can do to avoid this... I tried mixing really slow and letting it sit for about 10 minutes till there are very few/small bubbles but it doesn't help. I have used a small paint brush and a foam brush to apply and I'm getting the same results with both. | ||
bowhunter29 |
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Posts: 908 Location: South-Central PA | The good news is that it's an easy fix. Here's what I do to eliminate bubbles. I mix my epoxy with an automatic mixer and then I use an alcohol burner with DA to pop any small bubbles. Just run the lure quickly over the flame, it doesn't take much! jeremy | ||
Jeff Jaras |
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Posts: 4 | Nice... Thanks Jeremy! | ||
FUBAR |
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Posts: 216 Location: Middletown, Ohio | I use a small propane torch to pop all the bubbles before I put it on the drying rack. Mark | ||
kodiak |
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Posts: 1224 Location: Okoboji | thin coats | ||
Jeff Jaras |
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Posts: 4 | How long do I have to wait before I can recoat? | ||
little one |
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Posts: 501 Location: S.Wisconsin | Kinda depends on the temp. When i run mine in the rack wiith a 100w bulb it gets close to 90* so i can re coat in about 5 hours although i usually end up waiting 10-12 between coats because i get buisy with something else. As for the bubbles i use 3-4 thin coats and all i do is breath on the bait after brushing the etex on and it takes care of the bubbles. I had the same problem with bubbles untill a few guys on this board helped me out. I also started microwaving the mixed etex for 10 sec before brushing it on..........now for that stupid dust in the basement..ahh Edited by little one 1/19/2012 3:48 PM | ||
Tackle Industries |
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Posts: 4053 Location: Land of the Musky | X2 for the small propane torch. Just lightly run the flame across the epoxy and pop pop pop they go. Does a very nice job. | ||
muskyslayer96 |
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Posts: 615 Location: Madison, WI | JJ, I agree with the previous posts with a little deviation. Warm your E-tex bottles in some hot water before using, I've found it flows better and reduces bubbles during mixing (the lower viscosity of the mix warm allow the bubbles to escape easier). I'm pretty aggressive when I mix, and not concerned with bubbles. Pour out onto aluminum foil lined plate, let stand for a bit, hit lightly with heat gun on low. Coat bait, hit bait with heat gun on low (go easy) and no bubbles. Good luck, I have literally stroked out at times learning the subtle nuances of using E-tex. MS | ||
Jeff Jaras |
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Posts: 4 | Thanks for all the info guys. I'm now confident that that using these tips by finish will look like glass!!! | ||
h2os2t |
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Posts: 941 Location: Freedom, WI | Another possibility is air bubbles are coming out of the wood if it is not sealed real good. If air bubbles are coming out of the wood the ways to stop it is either seal it better or start with everything warm and let the temp fall (does not have to be much). As the temp falls the bait contracts and air does not come out, it sucks in instead. Best is to seal better though. | ||
ShutUpNFish |
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Posts: 1202 Location: Money, PA | Torch or even a warm blowing breath usually takes the bubbles right out.... | ||
wvhillbillyjlm |
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Posts: 278 Location: WV | I just breath thru a straw onto the bait. Seems to work well for me. Only problem that I have with this is sometimes get a little buzzed. I tried the torch technique and we didn't get along to well. | ||
bowhunter29 |
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Posts: 908 Location: South-Central PA | You've gotten some great advice on here. The one thing I'll add is that you only need a slight amount of heat. If you hold the lure over the alcohol burner or torch for longer than a split second, you may run into some trouble. You run the risk of scorching the epoxy and heating it to the point where it will run and drip. I've done both! Just a quick pass over the lure on all 4 sides and you are done! jeremy | ||
wvhillbillyjlm |
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Posts: 278 Location: WV | bowhunter29 - 1/20/2012 11:56 AM You've gotten some great advice on here. The one thing I'll add is that you only need a slight amount of heat. If you hold the lure over the alcohol burner or torch for longer than a split second, you may run into some trouble. You run the risk of scorching the epoxy and heating it to the point where it will run and drip. I've done both! Just a quick pass over the lure on all 4 sides and you are done! jeremy I would say my problem with this technique was that I used too much heat. | ||
muskyslayer96 |
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Posts: 615 Location: Madison, WI | JJ Roger has a good point regarding bubbles coming from the wood. I get this at times with my eye sockets, a quick coat of spray can enamel clear coat will remedy it. It is compatible with E Tex as long as its dry Good luck MS | ||
MACONE |
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Posts: 248 Location: Xenia, Ohio | You've gotten some great advice on here. The one thing I'll add is, I use a heat gun, a heat gun does very well for me pulling out all the air bubbles making it a glass like finish, I hold the heat gun about 12" to 15" away from the bait while it's on the drying rack spinning, I would say no more than one minute with the heat gun check bait and repete if nessaccary, I always wait about 15 after I expoxy then a use the heat gun. you can buy a nice heat gun at HARBOR FREIGHT 1500 watt dual temp for $9.99 | ||
Pikopath |
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Posts: 501 Location: Norway | I use only a hairdrier, but then again I use C&W Lure epoxy, which less prone to airbubbles in the first place. When the wood has leaked air, sometimes I stick around with the bait and pop the bubble every now and then, till the epoxy is to thick for the air to make bubbles. I only do this with "important" baits, if its a regular, I just sand/cut the bubbles before next layer. Michael | ||
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