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Posts: 35
Location: Apple Valley, MN | I'm trying to build some small #6 blade bucktails for Twin City metro Tigers. The baits look great, except they only spin 1 of 10 retrieves! I've assembled them the following way. .051 wire, 3/0 hook, 1/4" hollow brass bead as a spacer, 3/8 oz worm weight (similar to lungen tales) with 7" Starflash skirt, 3 - ~3/16 hollow brass beads, #4 clevis, #6 (lakeland) fluted indiana.
I don't have a bead above the clevis. The bait is perfect for what I want - Total length is 6.5" and weight is exactly 1oz
Sometimes if I "pull start" they work great. But other times that doesn't even solve the problem.
Before I buy more parts, would adjusting bead sizes below clevis make a difference? If yes do I need bigger or smaller? Do I need a beed above the clevis? Most baits I've purchased don't have one, but they are MUCH bigger blades.
Water temps are falling, and I hear tigers calling. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Posts: 101
| It should spin!! without seeing a picture it is hard to determine what is up though. Based off your description it should go. A smaller bead directly below the clevis may help. Also make sure that your clevis makes a perfect "U" shape and isn't bent out. What thickness is the blade you are using? For something that size it should be a .25 not .40 blade. |
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Posts: 79
| Since you are using 051 wire the size 4 clevise might not be free enough. Try a size 6 and see if that helps. Also, like black river said, make sure the clevis is a u and both sides are parallel. I hope this helps. |
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Posts: 35
Location: Apple Valley, MN | Thanks for the input guys.
They are the standard Lakeland fluted blades (purchased at Thorne Bros) that I believe are ~ .18or .020, not the thicker musky blades they sell.
I do have to use a #4 clevis since a 6 won't fit. I'll try a smaller bead under the clevis. Maybe it's too much surface contact. I could try a thinner wire, but I was looking for some durability I didn't want - although I think Mepps makes the smaller musky killers and agilas on less than .051? |
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Posts: 2378
| I'd go to smaller wire. Those little blades are a bear to get to spin consistently because they don't offer much resistance.
Go with the smaller wire. Durability is nice, but it's easy to rewire a bait if it gets ruined by a fish. |
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| If that doesn't work as stated above..
Add extra beads moving the blade away from the skirt a little more, sometimes the blades get caught up into the skirt... Allot of my Llungen tails had the same problem, so I added the extra space and it fixed the problem... |
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Posts: 994
Location: Minnesota: where it's tough to be a sportsfan! | smaller diameter wire for sure, should take care of it. Take a look at a Mepps, the wire diameter is incredably small and those dudes ae tough stuff. But I would still use good wire. |
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Location: The Yahara Chain | What Baldy said.
Putting a bead above the clevis will not help it spin, it would only hinder it. |
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Posts: 1405
Location: Detroit River | markw - 8/26/2011 12:15 PM
Thanks for the input guys.
They are the standard Lakeland fluted blades (purchased at Thorne Bros) that I believe are ~ .18or .020, not the thicker musky blades they sell.
I do have to use a #4 clevis since a 6 won't fit. I'll try a smaller bead under the clevis. Maybe it's too much surface contact. I could try a thinner wire, but I was looking for some durability I didn't want - although I think Mepps makes the smaller musky killers and agilas on less than .051?
When you say the #6 clevis won't fit what won't it fit? The wire or the blade? I've had problems with the #4 clevis collapsing with blades bigger than #5.
My guess is that the clevis is catching on the hollow bead. The holes on the hollow beads are larger than on solid beads and sometimes they will have small burrs around the holes. I'd try a solid bead.
Post a picture if you can. |
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Posts: 35
Location: Apple Valley, MN | I appreciate the ideas. I followed teh suggestion of reducing wire size, and went with .041. They work great after a slight "pull start" I just ordered some solid beads. I'll try one of those under the clevis to see if that prevents the need to pull start.
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| The clevis should be a perfect U shape, not a C or V shape.
The bead behind the clevis should be small and solid (not hollow).
Brian
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Posts: 230
| MuskyFix - 8/26/2011 1:18 PM
If that doesn't work as stated above..
Add extra beads moving the blade away from the skirt a little more, sometimes the blades get caught up into the skirt... Allot of my Llungen tails had the same problem, so I added the extra space and it fixed the problem...
+1
Can you upload a picture? How many beads did you use as a spacer? |
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Posts: 416
Location: Madtown, WI | "The clevis should be a perfect U shape, not a C or V shape."
Is this really a necessity? I just find it odd that a lot of people say this is a must but they don't come in a perfect U nor do the majority of mass market bucktail makers, that I've noticed, bend them in this fashion. I've had mixed results with the perfect U's (probably because they aren't perfect) and haven't had a problem with the out of the package ( 's. |
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