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| Is there a good way to completely clean and empty a tank? I don't want to take the entire back deck apart, but will if that's the only way. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
question for you first: is there something wrong with the tank that has alerted you to needing to clean it? Before ripping into it, there are many on here that can help diagnose a problem and it may or may not be the tank...
Steve |
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| Hiya,
question for you first: is there something wrong with the tank that has alerted you to needing to clean it? Before ripping into it, there are many on here that can help diagnose a problem and it may or may not be the tank...
Steve
I have been experiencing some rough motor running issues - not all the time though, the way out it idles well and when I bring it up to 3000 rpm's or so my (Johnson 60hp - 97) shakes a bit, doesn't want to go all out, but stop and fish go to next spot runs perfectly normal. (then of and on all day) I use good 91 non ethanol gas- So far - I have cleaned the carbs, new fuel filter - new filter for water separator, all new fuel lines primer bulb - checked spark and compression are good -
So now - I want to try and completely empty/clean the gas tank its on a C-liner fishhawk- 1650 tiller (2005)
Thanks,
Joe
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hi again,
ok...idle speed ok, but when you hit the throttle hard does it bog down at all? How much smoke do you have when you get going after idle?
My gut instinct is the issue is not your tank...the filter systems you have in place should take care of any fuel issues you may experience when it comes to water and debris.
I do have a suggestion for you to try before doing anything with the fuel tank...
That particular motor I believe should have what looks to be a tire valve stem somewhere located behind the carbeurator...might have a cap on it... If it does and you can find it, get a can of OMC (or bombardier equivalent) decarbonizer. What I am thinking is this: you are dealing with a large amount of carbon build-up in the compression chamber and it is affecting performance. The OMC decarbonizer comes in a can that has about a 6" hose attached to it, with the little screw cap on it to connect to the stem behind the carbeurator. Get the motor warm (not hot...just warm), then set it to a high idle (no more than 2000 rpms. Start spraying shots from the can to the motor...it will start to idle rough and blow white smoke...keep doing it a few more times, then give it a big long shot until the motor kills. Then...hold it for a little longer. Let the motor sit for about 1/2 hour, then go and run it a while to clean out all the gunk...there will be a bunch of white smoke for a bit, but run it until it is no longer burning out white smoke.
Once that is done, let the engine cool and replace the spark plugs. Then go out and see how the motor works. If nothing changes, then the diagnosis can continue. My bet, though, is that you will find the motor to be running really well. If the motor has never had a decarbonizing process done to it, you will find this can make a world of difference in the performance of the engine...
If you are unable to find the OMC stuff, you can do this as well with a can of mercury powertune (it is the same stuff, but must be sprayed into the carb throats...not hard, but probably requires removing the air box first...) And follow the same procedure as above...
Something to try...
Steve
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Posts: 1887
Location: syracuse indiana | i agree with vms on thuis one, alot of the older gas lines and so forth cant take the newer gas of today. the one that is going up to the tank r usually good, but the ones that come from the primer bulb and so forth may seem to look good but they can be bad, id change the primer and put in all new gas line going to the motor. us USCG 1A line, bill |
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| I have experienced a clogged fuel pickup filter in the main tank. No need to remove the tank in my case, only the line where it entered the tank. Clean out the screen and replace if everything else looks good. I agree that the blub/line between the tank and the motor goes bad often, even if you can't see that it's bad. If you can squeeze it at all after it's full there is an air leak. |
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Posts: 18
| Thanks fellas, I have emptied my entire fuel tank -replaced all fuel lines and new primer bulb- filled with new gas and added Star Brite fuel additive - I believe that I have eliminated any issues with fuel. I wanted to clean my tank to eliminate all issues starting with the easiest things ie fuel- new plugs, fuel water separator filter. The motor (Johnson 60 97') ran great the first night 0 issues than the shaking/bogging issue showed up again nothing that was too bad and it did seem to go away if I stopped put it in neutral and revved it up for bit - would run good at WOT - but all I have done doesn't seem to totally have resolved the problem - I will try the decarboninizing the engine next to see if that does the trick I don't believe that its ever been done, but I've only had the boat for 2yrs - could an air leak be causing this it's an intermittent issue
Thanks again |
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Posts: 175
| Does that motor have an O2 sensor? If so, change it. |
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Posts: 18
| Not sure if it has an 02 sensor what does it look like? Where can it be found? |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | That motor is carbed...no O2 sensor...
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | One way you can check to see if it is an air leak is take a can of gumout with you the next time you go to the lake. Bring a friend and get it up to speed where things start running rough and spray carb cleaner around the outside of the carb. If it is running lean (sucking air) there will be an immediate change in performance to the positive direction. If that is the case, a carb rebuild/gasket replacement would be in order, but I think you had already done that..yes?
Steve |
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Posts: 18
| Steve - I had the carbs out and just cleaned - problem disappeared and was back again a day later - the gasket is a bit ratty looking, could a bad gasket make a difference - |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Yes.. Any time you pull carbs for cleaning, you are best off replacing gaskets. If one is ratty, you are probably running lean on the engine... Not a good thing. If you can, try the gum out trick and see that happens... Also, which gasket?
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