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Muskie Fishing -> Muskie Boats and Motors -> Boat Stereo Install
 
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Message Subject: Boat Stereo Install
andracke
Posted 8/27/2010 12:20 PM (#457013)
Subject: Boat Stereo Install





Posts: 133


Location: BLOOMINGTON,IL
I would like to put a stereo in the new boat. Has anyway figured out an easy way to cut out the circles for the speakers?
sworrall
Posted 8/27/2010 12:24 PM (#457014 - in reply to #457013)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install





Posts: 32914


Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin
A hole saw, new and very sharp.
MuskieMike
Posted 8/27/2010 12:26 PM (#457015 - in reply to #457013)
Subject: RE: Boat Stereo Install





Location: Des Moines IA
The rotozip, and the dremel tool both have hole cutting attatchments that made it real easy. I used the dremel tool myself.


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(Boat Speakers.jpg)


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(Speaker cut out.jpg)



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Attachments Boat Speakers.jpg (75KB - 3010 downloads)
Attachments Speaker cut out.jpg (59KB - 198 downloads)
andracke
Posted 8/27/2010 12:28 PM (#457016 - in reply to #457015)
Subject: RE: Boat Stereo Install





Posts: 133


Location: BLOOMINGTON,IL
I assume you cut the carpet back and then go out it with the tool or does it matter?

Thanks!
sworrall
Posted 8/27/2010 12:34 PM (#457018 - in reply to #457016)
Subject: RE: Boat Stereo Install





Posts: 32914


Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin
Using a hole saw it won't matter as long as the carpet is glued down well in the area you want to cut. Go easy but keep the rpm's wide open while cutting the hole.
Tackle Industries
Posted 8/27/2010 9:36 PM (#457059 - in reply to #457013)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install





Posts: 4053


Location: Land of the Musky
Dremel and cut it close, then carpet and then your speaker overlays wil cover up the imperfections.

Nice pictures too!!
James
RyanJoz
Posted 8/27/2010 11:17 PM (#457078 - in reply to #457013)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install




Posts: 1747


Location: Mt. Zion, IL
I am from Decatur, and I used to have a stereo business. PM me and if you come down, I'll help you out.
saint1
Posted 9/9/2010 6:18 AM (#458725 - in reply to #457013)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install




Posts: 332


Location: Neenah, WI
The Roto-Zip with the High speed carbide cutter, handle , Draw your circle you need with a compass, then drill hole 1/64 larger than the cutting bit. Place bit into drilled hole turn on and follow the marked line .( IF DRILLING OUT FIBERGLASS) IF IT IS WOOD THEN USE A HOLE SAW.

saint
The Dogger
Posted 9/9/2010 6:28 AM (#458728 - in reply to #458725)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install




Posts: 215


Location: Twin Cities
I put speakers into my boat (fiberglass), first thing as always with fiberglass is to tape off the cutting area with masking tape and wear a mask. After I marked the hole and drilled the center guide hole, I then placed the hole saw in position and ran it BACKWARDS to score the circle pattern. Once I flipped the drill to run fwd and ran, it settled in nicely and started cutting out a perfect circle. Take out any guess work or unsteady hand issues and just go with a hole saw - IMO. I used a Bi-metal bit type hole saw and the result was a perfect circle.
andracke
Posted 9/9/2010 11:39 AM (#458762 - in reply to #457078)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install





Posts: 133


Location: BLOOMINGTON,IL
Thank you for replys. I actually got lucky because our new boat has cutouts already on it. Not its just a matter of locating and mounting the stereo. The boat is an alumacraft but I just not sure of mounting the unit through the plastic on the console. I may make a seperate box for the stereo itself. Has anyone ever had problems mounting the unit into the plastic.

Thanks guys!!
The Dogger
Posted 9/9/2010 12:52 PM (#458782 - in reply to #458762)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install




Posts: 215


Location: Twin Cities
Mine is set into the plastic of the side console of a ranger. Most rangers are done this way. I added a support bar that mounts to the back of the CD player, most cd players come with them. Unless there is something to support it, under rough conditions it may torque on it enough to cause a problem (I learned the hard way). I have also seen them mounted inside a weather proof box, which can then be mounted anywhere - like under the console for example.
MuskieMike
Posted 9/10/2010 3:45 PM (#458935 - in reply to #457013)
Subject: RE: Boat Stereo Install





Location: Des Moines IA
Under the Console seems to be the best option for my boat.


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(Tuffy stereo.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Tuffy stereo.jpg (143KB - 2184 downloads)
Schuler
Posted 9/10/2010 4:53 PM (#458944 - in reply to #457013)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install





Posts: 1462


Location: Davenport, IA
I used a jigsaw on my alumacraft. They are easy to control for someone who is uncoordinated such as myself.
cajun84
Posted 9/12/2010 6:22 AM (#459062 - in reply to #457013)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install




Posts: 196


I think you have all of the ideas for placement and how too's. If you have;t bought speakers yet, I would highly recommend the JBL marine speakers. They are about $100 for a pair of 6 1/2's and they sound great. That is all I have in my boat and they are plenty load, still sound great with the volume up, and will take alot of beating around. I have often been in choppy water, and being a bass boat, it beats around quite a bit. I have heard many people say that quite a few of the marine speakers will take alot of water, but don't do well with jarring and vibration. Hope this helps.
VMS
Posted 9/12/2010 8:54 AM (#459064 - in reply to #457013)
Subject: Re: Boat Stereo Install





Posts: 3504


Location: Elk River, Minnesota
Hiya,

For mounting the stereo unit itself, I mounted mine on the side of the console rather than below or through the steering wheel side of the console. Reason? There was a steering mounting bracket that ran just behind the stereo when I mounted it that way so I could use it as a support for the back of the radio.

I have an alumacraft as well, and when considering mounting by the steering wheel, there is some space between the plastic and the wood. I was not very comfortable going through there with that gap since the gap would allow movement of the unit. I am sure there would have been ways to stiffen up that gap (little bit of foam or what not). but I didn't have much room to work with using the stereo that I found.

Steve
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