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| I've had some nice action on a few indiana fluted double 7's, double 8's and 7/8 combos over the last 2 years. Also a handful of dandy double colorado 7's and 8's. BUT - the issue is that if I make similar copies of these lures I often lose that spin-on-the-first-crank blade action. I cannot stand bucktails that don't spin instantly. I put a small metal bead in between the overlapping clevises and it did improve the percentage of instant spinning casts considerably on some of the 'dud' 'tails. But I'm anal and need 100% first crank spinning every time.
So...any good advice out there regarding wire diameter, clevis size, clevis hole size vs. wire diameter, blade type, blade thickness, or any other factor that would facillitate instant and consistant blade spinning???
thanks. |
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Posts: 3240
Location: Racine, Wi | One thing I do is throw a smaller bead under the clevis rather than the standard size I use for the others in the body of the bait. I also throw a larger bead on the top. Both seem to get the blades going right away. I don't know what sizes I use though, just that they are smaller than the body beads and larger than the body beads. |
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | Can you post a picture. One thing to is where the blades rest. What I mean is the blades vs the first skirt set. I try to position the edge of the blade right about where the skirt starts. In my past I have seen this affect spin. If your blades are too low they do not kick open right away so try to keep those blades higher. See picture I made for you. One of many possibilities for bad blade spinning. Clevis size vs wire diameter is another big factor as well as blade weight vs blade area.
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| Sweet. Thanks for that tip. I'll try to post a pic later...but it looks like I'm ok on the blade positioning.
In looking at my good homemade doubles I see that they are further up the shaft. And they are mostly the fluted indiana blades that are the easiest spinning. My lighter double colorado style (like 2 mepps maribou blades) are a royal pain to get spinning in tandem. I'm using the same clevises and wire...maybe that's bad? Need more gap between the clevis hole and the main shaft? Same issue with some others that I have that are positioned up the wire shaft. I was thinking that these lighter blades would be free-er spinning...especially the deep cupped colorados, but that hasn't been the case. I love the double fluted 8 indianas, but want a double that I can REALLY burn - maybe I'll have to try some 6's in the fluted indianas unless I can get clevises and wire shaft changes to solve my problem.
thanks. |
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| I actually think a larger bead udner the clevis works better than a small bead. Bucher used to do that with his bucktails. Not sure if that's still the case. |
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Posts: 12
Location: La Crosse, WI | Try bending the clevises so the bottom ends lay flat with each other. All stock clevises are bent slightly out, so the blades want to stay together. If you bend the clevises like I do with my baits, you will have them start almost everytime with no trouble. |
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Posts: 35
Location: Apple Valley, MN | Even though many successful bucktail builders do it do it, I've never been a big fan of putting a bead on top of the clevis. The physics of it make me think that the front bead will add extra drag and downward pressure on the clevis, thus affecting it's spin rate. I'm sure it really depends on the blade style/thickness/weight - but there is some effect. |
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Posts: 531
Location: Hugo, MN | Heavier blades spin better than light blades. By light I mean less than .025. #10 blades almost always spin due to their massive surface area, but it seems to me that the smaller blades have to be heavier to make up for their size. |
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Posts: 20218
Location: oswego, il | The shape of the colorado blades make a difference as well in those smaller sizes. I have some that have a slight tear drop shape and they don't work well at all for bucktails but are good for spinnerbaits. They make an almost round one and they don't work as a single at all and flop around like a spoon on a spinnerbait. They are fairly flat too. They work ok as a double on a bucktail. Never tried a deep cup as a dobule but they do not ride out as far as a non-deep cupped blade. |
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| I'm finding that too Todd. Actually pounded a few deep cup colorados flatish, and they were really bad as doubles, now quite good. And I'm seeing that french blades are pretty good as doubles. I would love to find some blades the size and texture of the booty call double 8...I like those quite well, but not the price tag. |
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Posts: 2269
Location: SE, WI. | I agree with Mark W. Why would you want to put a bead above the clevis. I never put a bead in that location, and have made spinners for years. I also like large clevises. But the bottom line, and I see this problem guiding, is the caster does not get the blades activating instantly BECAUSE the lure, as it is decending in the water should actually start to come towards you, which will activate the blades instantly. It usually is caster (operator) error!!!  |
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