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Posts: 27
| I am thinking about trying the CS Coatings seal coat as a clear coat instead of an epoxy. I'm looking for a clear coat that isn't as thick as epoxy is. I would like something along the lines of what you get on a suick when you buy one. Does anyone know what they use? And have any of you tried the CS coating seal coat? |
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| I've used spray clear that is intended for use on cars. It has worked well for me when I don't want a thick clear coat like envirotex.
More experienced basement builders I'm sure will have other ideas but automotive clear will work.
I've used it on repaints of a believer, pacemaker, and topraider where a thin clear is all you need.
Edited by Musky Madman 5/10/2010 1:42 PM
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Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | Automotive paints and clear coats work well on Plastics but not on Wood unless the wood has been sealed properly and even then some wood will blow the paint and clear right off it. Automotive paints and clears dry very brittle and when wood expands and contracts during temperature changes it cant react so it cracks. Water based paints and epoxies are more flexible so they stretch and move with the wood. For example createx water based acrylic enamel drys like a plastic bag and stretches and moves with the wood. I used to use auto solvent based paints and clear coats and had nothing but trouble on wood. Plastic lures?they are the best type of paints to use because they will actually melt into the plastic and really stay on well. Auto paints dont work well on plated metal either unless you use something called wash primer to etch the metal. Water based should not be used on plastic or metal at all as it just peels off. Kingfisher |
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Posts: 23
| I use it on my walleye crankbait. It seems to hold up fairly well. I think that it takes some time to cure fully. I used it on some mantas I painted and put 6 coats on them and they seem to hold up to hook rash ok. Would like to see how they hold up to Muskie teeth. |
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Posts: 1207
Location: Pigeon Forge TN. | I have been using Auto paints for years and also when I painted commercially and have had no problems for normal wear and tear. Smacking hard surfaces such as rocks and or concrete will do damage even to etex. As far as expanding or contracting, auto paints do well ( the metal and plastics in cars do just that) so if applied properly the paint is very forgiving. Yes, Water based paints (in certain blends) can be applied to metal and wood.
Each type of paint used must be applied as intended by the manufacturer and the painter has to be experienced with their procedures, if not, well than you have a problem for sure.
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Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | I painted cars for a living for years before becoming a lure builder. When I was talking about using auto paints on metal Im talking about plated surfaces like Nickle, Chrome etc. Spoons. Sherman williams makes a good etch primer called wash primer that eats its way into any plating allowing paint to adhere to it.My uncle owned a spoon company and I painted for him before going into wood lures. Stan, you nailed it when you said use the paint for what it was designed for. Auto paints are made to paint on Metal(prepared metal) bare sanded and primed, wet sanded and then painted. Sheet metal may flex some but it does not expand and contract like certain woods. Try sending a maple lure painted in solvent based paint and top coat down 30 feet into 45 degree water . It will explode from the cold and pressure. Ive been building deep divers for 12 years that smash rock ,its the most brutal test of paints and top coats that there is. Wood moves with temps and pressure changes metal and plastic does not. Auto paints work great on plastic baits as the solvent melts its way into the surface of the plastic where water based will peel right off. If I were to shoot plastic I would go to a good solvent based enamel or Lacquer . Older Tuff Shads are perfect example of the problems of using Solvent based paint on wood. Chris was plagued with cracking and peeling and could not keep his finishes on the lures. He was using Cedar and Cedar does not hold auto paint well at all (unless the builder uses multiple coats of a tough sealer) Chris instead changed wood to Mahagony which has more oil in it. Mahagony is the one wood that has shown good results using lacquers and solvent based enamels. Lokes are a great example of Lacquer on wood. Nils master totally encases wood in a tough plastic shell as does Rapala to keep them from cracking. Now most of the guys here just want to carve a bait or two and paint it. My suggestion is if you are going to build wooden lures I would seal the wood with sanding sealer and prime and paint them with waterbased acrylic enamels and top coat with etex or another quality epoxy. If you are going to paint plastic baits use a good solvent based paint and top coat it with what ever you like. I would use clear urethane and spray it on in multiple coats allowing each coat to flash before applying the next coat.
There is no real standard to this. I could take a piece wood and dip it 10 times in liquid plastic and paint it with anything but then I just changed the entire makeup of the lure. At that point why make it out wood? Cedar and Balsa baits catch fish because they are light and move right. To add all that weight so it will accept solvent is adding extra steps that are not needed if you use paint made for wood. I owned a Body Shop for 10 years right up until base coat clear coat was the norm. Painted spoons for another 5 years and have spent the last 12 building wooden lures. Those three applications are worlds apart all requiring a different approach.
One other thing, Solvent based paints are extremely toxic and epoxy based paints even worse. Get them in your lungs and they will mess you up big time. Wear a respirator when painting any type of paint. Createx is non toxic water based paint and I Still use a vented booth so I am not inhaling overspray. Respect all paint for what it is. I hope this helps , Mike |
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Posts: 469
Location: MN | Mike, What brand of sanding sealer would you recommend to use ? Thank you, very much in advance.
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Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | I have tried several, Sherwin Williams, Minwax and Zars. I am currently using Zars oil based. It penetrates the woods we use well and sands real smooth. Sometimes the deep grains in Oak require a second dip. I use tubes filled with the sealer and lower the baits into them . Then they hang over the tube while I prepare the next bait for dipping. They dry hanging on a wire. Zars has proven to me to be the best sanding sealer in my area. I am sure there are other brands that work as well. Minwax was a little thicker and didnt seem to do as good a job of really getting into the wood. Sherwin Williams was some pretty good stuff but expensive. ZARS is not cheap either. Mike |
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Posts: 469
Location: MN | Mike,
Thank you, very much. |
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