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Posts: 1023
| Going to change the oil on my 4 stroke Johnson today. First time to do it myself. Do I need to change the seals on the drain screws or not. I am assuming not but my SELOC manual says to do so - is that necessary or overkill. I am assuming the seals are plastic discs or o-rings?
Thanks
Landry |
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| I have a 4 stroke Suzuki that I do my own oil changes on...in the tool kit it came w/ about 10 extra seals...they are metal washers basically...imo I don't think you HAVE to replace them but if you have extras you might as well..I do on mine |
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Posts: 315
| dont worry about replacing them if there is nothing wrong with them. Just inspect the seal...if it looks fine leave it. |
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Posts: 388
| I have changed the oil on my 90 Suzuki (Same as the 4 stroke Johnsons) probably a half dozen times and have yet to change the metal seal ring. |
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Posts: 1663
Location: Kodiak, AK | This is off the record, and if asked, I'll deny it, but in aviation maintenance, we reuse 90% of the o-rings we see. If the seal looks good, and you don't get a leak after the change, you're good to go. |
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Posts: 1023
| Thanks guys!!!!
Landry |
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Posts: 1023
| Okay. Changed oil and filter tonight. Was pretty easy. I ran the engine with muffs for 6 or 7 min to get the fuel treatment into the motor. Then I drained the crankcase oil and changed the oil filter. I then filled up with new oil and ran the engine for 30 seconds. Does this all sound correct. I have never even changed oil on my car so this was a big deal for me:)
I changed my lower unit lube too.
Landry |
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Posts: 3242
Location: Racine, Wi | Sounds about right. That's exactly what I do as well. Although I have to admit, the first time I did it, I was a rookie as well. Pretty easy to do so it's good you tried it on your own. |
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Posts: 8848
| Landry.. I worked at ain oil change shop for about 4 years when I was a kid. (LOL, yeah, I was pretty ambitious back then...) There are a few things that can go wrong (and often do) when people try to change their oil themselves.
1. Drain Plug Gaskets: The fiber, plastic, and rubber gaskets will all become brittle and flatten out some with age. Overtightening the drain plug is a good way to wreck one. If it is not distorted or cracked, you can re-use it.
2. Drain Plugs: Typically last forever unless you cross thread them (thread it in BY HAND, then tighten it with a wrench) or overtighten them. Again, what you think is tight enough? It's probably too tight. Cranking it down as hard as you can will weaken the threads, split gaskets, and can actually strip the threads of both the plug (if you're lucky) and the oil pan (if you're not)
3. Oil filters: Another thing that people LOVE to overtighten.
1. When you remove the old filter, make sure the rubber gasket comes with it. (Every once in a while the gasket will stick. Putting the new filter and gasket on, with the old gasket still attached is BAD.)
2. Wipe off the old oil/dirt/etc from the housing where the filter makes contact. (if the old gasket stuck, it will come off when you do this)
3. Put a thin film of oil around the gasket on the new filter. This is IMPORTANT, because if you don't? Good luck getting it off when you change the oil next time
4. Tighten until gasket makes contact, and then 3/4 turn on top of that. Oil filters should be hand tight. Sure, you can crank 'em on with a wrench. Only do this if you plan on taking it somewhere and having someone ELSE deal with removing it. I had DIY's (do-it-yourself-ers) vehicles where we literally twisted the oil filter in half taking it off because it was not oiled and overtightened to boot.
5. Wipe everything down, run your engine, and check for leaks.
It's simple stuff really -- the kids working at the oil change shop make about what flipping burgers pays and have about as much experience. |
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Posts: 1023
| Thanks guys - sounds like I did okay. Saved some $ for lures!
Landry |
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