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Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] Muskie Fishing -> Muskie Boats and Motors -> Question about rigging on fiberglass boats |
Message Subject: Question about rigging on fiberglass boats | |||
whynot |
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Posts: 897 | I just bought my first fiberglass boat and am curious if people have any tips regarding rigging on fiberglass. Right now, the only thing I have to put on is a RAM mount, puck and transducer for a 520C. Is it as simple as pre-drill the holes and use a screw to hold it in place or are there better methods for securing things to fiberglass. Also, when I rigged my last 520C I used some marine sealant to seal the holes from the transducer. Are there special sealants for fiberglass? Really, I'm just trying to avoid any issues down the road so any advice regarding this type of stuff would be helpful. I ran a search and couldn't find anything, if there is stuff already posted on this topic please provide a link for me. Thanks! -Chris | ||
kjgmh |
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Posts: 1088 Location: Hayward, WI | I like to put tape down were I am going to drill and then counter sink the holes to prevent any cracking. I prefer an elastomaric sealer. | ||
The Wanderer |
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Posts: 158 Location: Burlington, WI | If you counter sink the holes through the gel coat the gel coat won't chip. On my boat I have 3 RAM mounts and a GPS puck. For all of the RAM mounts I use neoprene or rubber washers between the boat and the RAM mount. The washers are approximately the same size as the mount. I also used stainless lock nuts and bolts to fasten everything down. I haven't had a problem with any water getting through to the inside of the boat, and everything has stayed tight since I've put them on. Good luck | ||
Schuler |
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Posts: 1462 Location: Davenport, IA | Well, first of all, I would suggest not mounting the transducer on the transom of a glass boat...you wouldn't have any problems w/ a 520 shooting through the hull. (My 334 is set up this way, very nice) But if you want to, 3M 5200 sealant is designed for below the waterline use. | ||
whynot |
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Posts: 897 | Thanks for the advice! That's exactly what I was looking for. Schuler, if I wanted to mount the transducer inside the hull do I need to get a special transducer or is it the same one? | ||
Schuler |
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Posts: 1462 Location: Davenport, IA | You can use either the "puck" style transducer or the skimmer. I use the skimmer (designed to mount on the transom). The attachment here provides detailed instructions that I found on another website. What the article doesn't mention is that you can use a brick rather than a scuba weight. Edited by Schuler 4/3/2009 10:31 AM Attachments ---------------- InstallingaTransducer.doc (28KB - 864 downloads) | ||
whynot |
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Posts: 897 | Thanks, good instructions! One more question since we are talking transducers, if I mount a thru hull transducer what do I use for a temperature sensor? Isn't mounting a temperature sensor going to require me to drill holes in the transom anyway? | ||
Schuler |
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Posts: 1462 Location: Davenport, IA | Yes, you will need a temp probe. But there are other advantages to the transducer being shoot through hull other than not drilling holes. It will work at any speed and you will not have to move it around to make sure its working right and it cannot be broken by obstacles (such as ice). Although it will cost less to put it on the transom as I believe the temp probe is $45. | ||
cimusky |
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Posts: 75 | If possible I try to place some type of backing behind what I am mounting. Usually I use some alum barstock a couple of inches wide under the glass so when I tighen things up the nuts and washers go next to the barstock. Might be a bit of overkill but I have not had anything pull out. | ||
esoxfly |
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Posts: 1663 Location: Kodiak, AK | I agree on the backing. I'd like to put one behind my RAM mount for my Terrova support up on the gunwhale, but there's no access up there. | ||
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