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Posts: 1460
Location: Kronenwetter, WI | What is the best way to rig a couple 10s on a spinnerbait? Looked at some Bling pix and looks like splitrings onto a swivel? |
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Posts: 20248
Location: oswego, il | If you want to put two #10 blades on a spinnerbait, it is a bucktail configurations with two clevises. That is the way I have seen them done. |
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Posts: 742
Location: Grand Rapids MN | I've seen most of them set up like Todd mentioned but the Blings do use a swivel set up like a normal spinnerbait. I remember when people were trying to make spinners this way it was really critical to get the right angle on the arm and leading into the spinner blades or they wouldn't spin correctly. Could be wrong but that seems to be what I recall. |
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| with bending the arm back and using clevises you'll run into a lot of issues with the blades not spinning consistently. you might start out with the right angle, but as the arm bends over time they stop spinning and you have to adjust often.
attaching both blades to a split ring to a swivel allows the blades to find their own proper angle and balance no matter what direction you're pulling the bait or if the arm gets bent. it seems to allow the blades to spin much more consistently.
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Posts: 1460
Location: Kronenwetter, WI | Lambeau---thanks---that's what I was looking for. |
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Posts: 229
Location: Plover, WI | Rick, this is how I did mine. It works very well.
Mike
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 Copy of finals (9).jpg (70KB - 104 downloads)
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Posts: 229
Location: Plover, WI | In the picture, it is hard to see, I've used two clevises like on a bucktail and have had no problems. When I made my bend, I kept it out a ways, accounting for the pull of the blades.
Mike |
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Posts: 929
Location: Rhinelander. | Its funny how times and attitudes change. !5 years ag I made spinner baits and had them aavaulable for sale. I also had rubber skirts on them and later silicone skirts and some flashhair. We called it the Topspin Theey never caught on and guys thought I was goofy to use that material for musky baits. We sure have become more open minded to want we will try to. maybe we are not as much traditionalist as they were 15 years ago.
Never made one back then with 10's. How does that baby pull through the water?
Pfeiff
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| Don't skimp on your components if you're doing #10 spinnerbaits, the split rings holding the blade take a beating. |
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| The problems certain people had with clevised #10s on spinnerbaits was because they were mixing and matching plated and painted blades of unequal weight. Think about it. Primer + paint does not equal a plated blade. Causes shadowing, spooning etc. |
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| The problems certain people had with clevised #10s on spinnerbaits was because they were mixing and matching plated and painted blades of unequal weight. Think about it. Primer + paint does not equal a plated blade. Causes shadowing, spooning etc.
The angle on the spinnerbait arm is quite important, especially when using clevises. If the weight of the head weighs it down in a way that makes the blades run at an angle that isn't perpendicular to the direction of travel through the water, they will have trouble spinning.
Using a swivel means that the blades will naturally orient straight against the flow of the water every time, regardless of what arm angle and weighting do to things.
Think about it.
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| We must have just gotten lucky, as my buddy Greg(GP Thumper Tackle) made up a few double 10 spinnerbaits for me, blades on clevis's bucktail style, about 3 years ago, and they have performed admirably for a number of us now. I have a ton of hours logged on two of them in particular, both trolled and casted, without any bending or blade not spinning issues. My assumption is that if you use a light enough wire(not too light..), the blades will pull/force it to the proper alignement for the correct spinning angle.
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Posts: 1460
Location: Kronenwetter, WI | I wound up looking at some pix of BLINGS and here's what I did....loaded two 10s onto a splitring concave sides facing one another and then put the splitring onto a swivel.....looks like that's how it's done...I'll let you know...soon as I can find some water. |
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| My assumption is that if you use a light enough wire(not too light..), the blades will pull/force it to the proper alignement for the correct spinning angle
not a bad idea...i've only used ones with .51 or larger wire.
what size wire were you using on the GP Thumpers?
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Posts: 2378
| I prefer the split ring and swivel setup that Kevin Cochran started using last year.
I even converted all the old Blings I had that were the old setup to the new.
Bottom line...use what works for you...I found that the split ring method works best for me |
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Posts: 2378
| Guest - 1/27/2009 7:49 PM The problems certain people had with clevised #10s on spinnerbaits was because they were mixing and matching plated and painted blades of unequal weight. Think about it. Primer + paint does not equal a plated blade. Causes shadowing, spooning etc. come on...lots of bucktails out there mixing painted and non-painted blades and they spin just fine. The head weighing down the bait and putting the blades at the incorrect angle is definitely an issue, but blaming mixing painted and unpainted blades is overthinking it
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Posts: 531
Location: Hugo, MN | I have to agree with Baldy. My best double ten baits are the ones with mixed blades. Just something about the color and flash combo that seems to work, and I've never had one of mine not spin. |
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Location: MN | I used to make mine with the slit ring method. The baits I made were killer for slow rolling on the bottom and letting the bait helicopter. Those big blades create an excellent slow thump and having two really helps to control the drop rate. However, the 0.051 wire finally snapped after a season of use. I felt like the 0.051 wire was a little lite for two double #10s. |
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