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Posts: 292
Location: SW MI | How do you make these? Is it as easy as taking a shaped piece of wood and putting hooks on it or is it a little more involoved than that? Do I need to weight it? Is there a specific shape that gives it that side to side motion? |
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | I made a few Weagle types for fun last year and I just took a 1.5" maple dowel and shaped it on a lathe, drill some hook and nose screw eye holes, drill eye holes, water seal, prime, paint, 2-3 coats epoxy and your fishing. |
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Posts: 292
Location: SW MI | The action came out right? If so, I think I found a winter hobby to keep me busy.......... |
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Posts: 235
| Hey TackleBooty, maybe you can help me out here if you would be so kind. I will attach a photo of a few topwaters that I made last winter with just a slight amount of weight in the front of the bait. These baits lay flat on the water and won't wtd. They dive about a foot but without much action. Someone told me to weight them so the front end is under water or almost neutral or slowly sinking. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Ken
Edited by Kenslures 10/2/2008 1:45 PM
(Jerkbait paint schemes 2.jpg)
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 Jerkbait paint schemes 2.jpg (85KB - 148 downloads)
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Posts: 531
Location: Hugo, MN | I've made a few that were essentially just closet rod sanded down on a belt sander and a thru wire harness. All I did was add a little bit of weight into the back of the bait to make it overrun the front on the pause. They work great. Nothing to it. Play around with the weight and maybe you can find something that works best for you. Not all fishermen are created equal, and don't work the WTD baits the same. Good luck. |
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Posts: 292
Location: SW MI | How do you put a through wire into wood. |
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Posts: 46
| I make a wtd called the side kick, if you make the lure out of ''light'' wood,(kiln dried pine's, cedar, bass wood ect.) you'll need to weight the lure, putting the weight toward the rear of the bait will give the lure a slight head popping during the walk, i like to weight them more in the middle, getting the lure to sit fairly low in the water, if you choose to weight in the rear of the lure, attach your line tie slightly towards bottom of the front of the lure, similar to a jack pot, if you want a more ''glidebait'' type action, attach line tie to front center, if you want a more ''weagle'' type action, don't taper the body much from head to tail, and you'll get the tail whip weagles are known for, now, as for hard wood, maples, oaks, and other dense woods, sometimes you need to give them just a small amount for balance , mounting 2 hooks instead of 3 will make it wtd better, and as for wire thru, i drill a hole thru the body from head to tail with a long 1/8'' drill bit, if any of the line ties/hook hangers are off center from each other, the bait won't walk as good as it could, and some times not at all, and the wire thru thing, they work better and are more consistant if you use screw eyes, use the 0.92 1.5'' or 2'', my email is [email protected], any more q's feel free to drop me a line--ryan/rylure |
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Posts: 32935
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Another issue with Kenslures; Take off the rear treble and replace it with a clean hook. Anything on the rear hook will impair the action. |
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Posts: 179
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan | Here is the way I make mine. they are called "The Johnson"......Turn cedar blank on lathe until you get the desired shape. Usually "spook" type look. I make mine 10". Take to drill press and drill eye holes, line tie and hook placement. Then drill with 3/8" forstner bit in the tail, straight in about 1 1/2" in. Melt 1/2 oz lead into hole with screw eye in place. Pour lead so it is just below wood surface and cover with 5 min epoxy. Seal, prime, paint and top coat I use three coats DT2. I use .092 SS screw eyes and they will not pull out when epoxied in. These baits have the same action as Giant Jackpots, but are heavier and have better hooking potential. You want the bait to sit in the water with head up and tail 2/3 submerged. Very easy to make and trust me, they do catch fish. Look for them soon on my website.
Rod
Edited by rjbass 10/3/2008 1:46 PM
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Posts: 292
Location: SW MI | Thanks for the info. Looks like I need to buy some stuff, that'll make my wife happy |
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Posts: 235
| Thanks so much for the replys. I will definitely work on this and see if I can get them perfected. Sometimes I can be so close but all I need is abit of others expertise. |
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Posts: 235
| sworrall - 10/3/2008 10:45 AM
Another issue with Kenslures; Take off the rear treble and replace it with a clean hook. Anything on the rear hook will impair the action.
Thanks for the info and I will give this a try. By having the rear hook dressed with whatever does this affect all baits alot or just wtd type baits. Thanks Ken |
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Posts: 2024
| Ken,
I'd assume it would affect the action on nearly all baits. The added dressing increases drag through the water. While aesthetically it's a nice touch, I don't think it's necessary. |
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Posts: 292
Location: SW MI | I just started on my first try. I'm using a ppiece of 9x1.25" pine curtain rod. I've decided to go with a Doc or Weagle shaped body. I don't have a lathe or anything so I'm doin it the old fashioned way: with a knife. More to follow as I go. |
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Posts: 292
Location: SW MI | One quick question. I've got my shape, it's sanded down, 1/8" holes drilled. I got my screw eyes today from Stamina, .092" and the hole is too big. Is this right? I'm doing this exactly the way I was told on here and I'm kinda pulling my hair out right now. HELP! |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Yes, use .092 screw eyes. Pre-drill the holes and insert the screws. As for weighting, some woods will glide without any weight at all, the Weagle being a good example. Other woods may require some weight. You can get a lure to walk if you put one weight toward the back of the lure so the nose is sitting up in the air...this is how spooks are weighted. You can also put one weight in the front and a second in the back, both about 1" from the end. Seal your lure with sanding sealer or polycrylic, let dry, then go give it a try. There is no reason to paint and clearcoat until you know it works. If it works, then let it thoroughly dry, primer, paint and clearcoat. Keep in mind that some clears will make the lure sink so don't go any heavier than you need to with the clearcoat when building topwaters.
RM |
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Posts: 235
| Esoxonthefly421 - 11/3/2008 2:42 PM
One quick question. I've got my shape, it's sanded down, 1/8" holes drilled. I got my screw eyes today from Stamina, .092" and the hole is too big. Is this right? I'm doing this exactly the way I was told on here and I'm kinda pulling my hair out right now. HELP!
Hey there, if your using .092 eyescrews I use a 1/16" drill bit which would be approx. .062 If you used a 1/8" bit the hole is .028 oversize as 1/8"=0.125 If thats too tight for hardwood use an 0.080 bit. Look up numbered or lettered drills and get whatever is the closest to .080. Hope this helps you out. If not pm me and I'll see what I can do to help you out. Ken |
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Posts: 78
| A simple solution is to lay the bit on the shank of the screw eye. The only thing you should see is the screw eye threads; sticking out on each side. If you can see part of the screw eye shank your bit is to small. If you can't see the threads on the screw eye your bit is to large! Always exposy screw eyes into the holes when you are set. |
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Posts: 292
Location: SW MI | So I finished my first lure enough to take it on a maiden voyage. I put my line tie on a little south of center because I weighted the tail and when I jerk it, it wants to dive just under the surface. For the most part it does WTD but does it dive because I put the tie too low? |
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | Kenslures-Sorry for the late reply. I do not used dressed hooks on the tail and I do not weight them. My finished weight is near 5oz so they are already on the heavy side but IMO that is good for these types of lures. I made some 8" and 10" adn they all work fine. |
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Posts: 235
| Hey TB, thanks for the reply and info. If you looked at the baits I turned, are yours tapered or more on the straight side?? Someone told me that for WTD style baits they work much better if they are basically the same dia all the way back?? Thanks again. Ken |
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | Mine are about he same dia most of the way tehn taper towards the end. Honestly I looked at a Zera Spook and followed the same lines.
http://www.bassdozer.com/images/heddon-super-spook-duo.jpg
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