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Posts: 375
Location: Browerville, Minnesota | I just ordered my new stainless steel prop for my boat and will be changing it out when I get it this coming week. Is there anything special I should be looking for or should do when changing the props? |
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Posts: 3511
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | About the only thing I would be looking for is the potential of line wrapped around the prop shaft by the seal. If there is some, it can damage the seal. Other than that, nothing special. Pull the old one and replace. I always recommend if the motor takes cotter pins to hold the castle nut from rotating, is to replace the pin. Probably a little over-kill, but I'd hate to lose a prop from a cotter pin breaking off from being bent back and forth a few times.
Steve |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | Get a tube of marine teflon grease, you'll need it for greasing the prop shaft prior to installation. There are tabs on the locking ring that goes under the prop nut, those are sometimes tricky to bend up for removal. They make special pliers for that job. You'll need a wooden block to place between the prop blade and the cavvy plate to effect nut removal. Be sure to torque the nut down to mfg. spec when installing the new one. m |
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Posts: 386
| Good advice everyone! As I am about to do the same, I'm curious how you ensure that you tighten the nut at the level of torque required? I don't have anything that measures torque. Any advice? |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | My advice is to go get one.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944594000P
Here's one Sears has for $80. You can prolly do a lot cheaper at NAPA or your local auto parts store. Even a Chinese Odd Lots special would be better than not having one at all. Think what it will cost you if you don't? Maybe it's just me, but I wouldn't try to 'shade tree' this (as in: shade tree mechanic - just crank 'er down and let 'er rip!). m |
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