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Muskie Fishing -> Muskie Boats and Motors -> trailer question
 
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Message Subject: trailer question
muskihntr
Posted 3/29/2007 7:20 PM (#247923)
Subject: trailer question




Posts: 2037


Location: lansing, il
is it possible or even worth it to change over my boat trailer from having no brakes to a surge brake system??? or am i better off buying a whole new trailer?
jonnysled
Posted 3/29/2007 7:45 PM (#247926 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: Re: trailer question





Posts: 13688


Location: minocqua, wi.
just get a new ranger ya sissy!
sworrall
Posted 3/29/2007 8:04 PM (#247928 - in reply to #247926)
Subject: Re: trailer question





Posts: 32886


Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin
It's a project, and expensive. You will need a new actuator style coupler, brake lines, and new drums with disc brakes. You can get electric brakes but those are touchy, IMHO. I believe I had a quote from a trailer builder a couple years back at about $1000.00 per axle.
muskie! nut
Posted 3/29/2007 8:06 PM (#247929 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: RE: trailer question





Posts: 2894


Location: Yahara River Chain
Here's what you need to do to convert.
1) Take off the old hitch (if it is bolted on - that will be easy, not so if it is welded on) and put a hitch in with an actuator. This is a hitch that has a hydralic ram that compresses when you stop.
2) Run brake lines to the trailer wheels. Most run down one side to a union (a "T" that splits the line to each wheel). Also you will need a rubber line from the frame to the caliper or drum that flexes when you hit road bumps.
3) A solenoid to stop the flow of brake fluid to the brakes when backing up. Some come with a "lock out" at the hitch and if you want to get out every time you back up, you can skip the solenoid. I will guarantee that if you have disc brakes you will not be able to push your trailer up any kind of incline without being locked out.
4) Convert your trailer wire harness from a 4-flat to a 5-flat. The extra wire is tapped into your reverse lights that cancels your trailer brakes when you you back up. This extra wire activates the solenoid.
5) Buy hubs with disc/drum (if you are doing this, get disc brakes - much better at stopping and self adjusting by adding more fluid). You should be able to get a kit that includes a bracket to hold the caliper, the caliper, & disc.

I think it would be much easier to by a trailer with brakes, unless you are very mechanical. If you were, you wouldn't be asking this question.
If you have to hire someone to do the convert, you are better off just buying a trailer with brakes. Parts & Labor will add up quickly and surely will cost you more than a new trailer would (or close to it - I would guess).


Edited by muskie! nut 3/29/2007 8:09 PM
ToddM
Posted 3/29/2007 8:33 PM (#247938 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: RE: trailer question





Posts: 20219


Location: oswego, il
John, my dad just went and bought a new trailer with brakes when he did it. We skidded through too many intersection on memorial parkway, those lights can be brutal. It cost him over a grand trading in the old one.
muskihntr
Posted 3/29/2007 8:37 PM (#247939 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: Re: trailer question




Posts: 2037


Location: lansing, il
thanks guys, pretty much what i thought id be better off tradin it in....sled, if i buy a ranger i wouldnt need you anymore!:-)
Tom B
Posted 3/29/2007 8:48 PM (#247946 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: RE: trailer question


If you are mechanically inclined and your trailer has the mounts, there is a kit available with all the parts. Go to: http://www.championtrailers.com/

If you have a heavier trailer (mine is a 2400lb trailer), it will have the tabs to mount the brake parts.

Looks like you can add brakes for under $400.

Tom B
muskynightmare
Posted 3/29/2007 10:26 PM (#247963 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: Re: trailer question





Posts: 2112


Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water
just buy a boat light enought to not need that, or buy a boat that comes with that trailer option.
muskihntr
Posted 3/30/2007 6:51 AM (#247983 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: Re: trailer question




Posts: 2037


Location: lansing, il
ill go right out and do that!!
Shep
Posted 3/30/2007 8:57 AM (#248002 - in reply to #247983)
Subject: Re: trailer question





Posts: 5874


I'd add them to the existing trailer. No too bad of a job. If you have a removeable tongue, it's a little more work. If you aren't able to do the work yourself, there are trailer and brake places around that can do the work. Annen Brake in Fond du Lac can handle this.

Champion trailers, TieDown, and Kodiak all make kits. As said, it's not too bad of a job.

I assume you have a RangerTrail? I can't imagine that being cheap to replace. Not sure you can even get one anymore, so you might be looking at an Eagle or Prestige?

Edited by Shep 3/30/2007 9:32 AM
muskihntr
Posted 3/30/2007 10:39 AM (#248035 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: Re: trailer question




Posts: 2037


Location: lansing, il
shorelander trailer. it is a smokercraft boat.
Tom B
Posted 3/30/2007 12:02 PM (#248056 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: RE: trailer question


If you look at the frame, near the hubs, there should be "ears" welded to the frame. If you have those, you can buy a kit and install everything yourself. If not, I'd probably have a shop do it.

I would bet those "ears" are there though.

Tom B
Shep
Posted 3/30/2007 12:05 PM (#248057 - in reply to #248056)
Subject: RE: trailer question





Posts: 5874


Sorry, I thought you had a Ranger.

The ears would not be on the frame, they would be on the axle.

Either way, you can add brakes to your trailer cheaper than trading it in. I would imagine Shorelander may even have a kit to fit. Here's a link to some ShoreLandr parts.

http://www.shorelandr.com/pages/o_access_pdf/chassis.pdf


Edited by Shep 3/30/2007 12:13 PM
Esox Man
Posted 4/1/2007 9:35 AM (#248301 - in reply to #247923)
Subject: Re: trailer question




Posts: 50


Location: Central Wi.
Check this out http://www.championtrailers.com/
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