|
|
Posts: 569
Location: Williamstown, WV | Guys,
I got a few baits I want to try and paint up (also bidding on some crankbait bodies on ebay) and was looking to buy an airbrush set. What brands do you recommend and any other info. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Shawn |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1529
| for simplicity and quality try a paashe h brush. they are used in production painting worldwide. we have 4 running constantly and they do take abuse |
|
| |
|
| We here at Wood on the Water Lures only use the finest air brush, the Iwata Elipse. This airbrush allows the artist presice control of his paint, from a heavy spray to pencil thin lines to shading. Dixieart.com carrys this brush at the best price and with free shipping. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 569
Location: Williamstown, WV | Okay guys thanks for the help...it really narrowed my search down. Now do I have to buy a air compressor strictly for air brushing or can I use a air compressor say I may buy from ace hardware or walmart? It may be a dumb question but I don't know. Thanks
shawn |
|
| |
|
Posts: 190
| WV, you can use a standard air compressor but I would suggest an oilless model (no oil mixing with outgoing air). Also I use an IWATA revolution, and it is a good brush. It runs around 100.00$. You may look into the lower cost brushes if you are only going to paint a couple baits here and there...............Hope this helps.Doug Bradley |
|
| |
|
Posts: 938
Location: NeverNever Lake | No airbrush needed in WV! Just pull out that Wadda Tobacci and filler-up with paint. Now spit,spit,spit !!!
Good to see you my porch dwelling neighbor!!! |
|
| |
|
Posts: 569
Location: Williamstown, WV | Raze
How ya been good buddy? How did your season go?
Shawn |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | I bought a great starter kit from Iwata that has a Sprint Jet compressor and an Eclipse HP-BS airbrush. So far, the results I've been able to achieve have been good but I'm going to step it up in performance now and I just invested in a top of the line Iwata Custom Micron CM-C Plus airbrush.
This brush has a much higher control of both spray pattern and air pressure and will allow me to grow as an artist without limitations from the tools. I bought mine from www.spraykings.com and they have a phenomenal selction of airbrushing supplies at unbeatable prices. Check them out!
Some things to consider with a compressor are how well it eliminates moisture and how steady the pressure is to your brush. I really would like to get the Iwata Hammerhead Shark compresor which lets you run two airbrushes independantly at different pressures and has exceptional moisture filtering. |
|
| |
|
| I'm used to my Pasche, and have been thinking of getting an Itawa so I don't have to change needles, tips....etc.
I'm used to using my side cup for paint. Can the Eclipse be used with cups instead of changing bottles?
Also, if you use bottles, do you have to flush between colors and/or color changes?
Thanks.
Beav |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | Beaver,
My Eclipse is a gravity fed brush with the reservoir right on top which makes for quick colour changes.
Here's the page with all the info you are looking for... http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/airbrush/eclipse/index.jsp
I highly recommend Iwata products and while I do not endorse them professionally, I would in a heart beat. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 190
| Beaver, I am not sure about the Eclipse but my Revolution uses bottles and I keep a bottle of thinner on hand that I run through in between colors. I am using urethanes. I sent you a p.m....................Doug Bradley |
|
| |
|
Posts: 938
Location: NeverNever Lake | I've been using an Iwata HP-C for years now, haven't had a single issue with it. I rarely use anything but acrylics. I even buy that 44 cent stuff at Walmart. Since I epoxy all of my lure's final coats, paint quality is never an issue. Createx and other airbrush ready paints are the least hassle.
Actually Shawn, Krylon seems to be the airbrush of choice in these parts. (wink) |
|
| |
|
Posts: 2378
| Beaver - 1/3/2007 3:36 PM
I'm used to my Pasche, and have been thinking of getting an Itawa so I don't have to change needles, tips....etc.
I'm used to using my side cup for paint. Can the Eclipse be used with cups instead of changing bottles?
Also, if you use bottles, do you have to flush between colors and/or color changes?
Thanks.
Beav
How does the Iwata work that you dont have to change needles and tips? How would you go from medium to fine detail without a finer tip? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4266
| Check out the link that Snax put up and check out the schematics.
I'm sure that the guys that use them could explain.
I asked a guy who does custom cars about the brushes, and he said that he uses the most expensive model that they make, but that he uses the basic gravity fed one too and can get it pencil thin just by drawing the needle back slightly. The farther you pull it back, the more flow and wider line you get. That's how I understood it anyway.
Beav |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | Two things will control line thickness: paint flow and proximity to the item being painted.
To get even finer lines with the Eclipse you can remove the crown cap allowing you to get very close to the work.
Having a smaller needle and head assembly will allow for extremely fine lines.
I just ordered the top of the line Iwata Custom Micron CM-C Plus which allows for extremely precise control. This particular brush has a few cool features which let the artist fine tune it to suit a particular need. For example, it has a tiny valve at the front (MAC Valve) which lets you dial in the air pressure very precisely allowing greater control of stippling effects. Stippling is the term used to describe tiny splatters of paint which you get by reducing airflow.
Additionally, it has the ability to dial in the lever throw meaning that you can preset the airbrush with another dial to only pull the main lever back as far as you set it. That way there can be no accidental release of too much paint.
Several other Iwata models share these features and they are definitely going to be helpfull in my painting style.
Edited by Musky Snax 1/4/2007 12:18 PM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 2378
| Beaver - 1/4/2007 12:04 PM
Check out the link that Snax put up and check out the schematics.
I'm sure that the guys that use them could explain.
I asked a guy who does custom cars about the brushes, and he said that he uses the most expensive model that they make, but that he uses the basic gravity fed one too and can get it pencil thin just by drawing the needle back slightly. The farther you pull it back, the more flow and wider line you get. That's how I understood it anyway.
Beav
sounds exactly like how i control the thickness on my badger, but I still need to go to a finer needle if I want to get really detailed. Probably the same setup. I may order an Iwata since they look nice and are roughly the same price as my badger and paasche.
what is it that you guys like about the gravity feed? I am using bottles now, and havent really had any problems. am i missing something? gravity fed seems to be more suited for smaller batches. i think i would waste too much time adding paint if i used that configuration. I do see some benefits though... |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | If you are going to be spraying a lot of any one colour at a time, I would use the bottles for that and then a gravity fed for any detailing. Some of the gravity fed models do have larger cups for extended spraying.
You honestly can't go wrong with Iwata. Look at the results I have managed to achieve with their most affordable airbrush and olny a years worth of airbrush experience. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | Luke,
take a look at the badger anthem or badger 360 as well. one needle/tip does everything from pencil lines to 3" wide spray. the 360 is a nice set up as it lets you do gravity feed or siphon feed with the same brush. |
|
| |
|
| I have a Badger 150 and a Paasche I like them both just acquired another Badger on trade I like them both |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | Hi Shawn, you got the Blanks from my wife on Ebay.( Queenfisher) She is selling off a bunch of extra lure blanks I made for our 2006 season. Those cedar ones work pretty good with a #7 lexan lip. We got a couploe nice fish on those lures. They are a knock off of an old Cobbs Crank from years ago. We got one at a lure swap and couldnt get any more so I made a bunch. I had like 40 left over blanks so Shelly put them on E bay. The Oak Shads are pretty cool too. You can slot them for a diving lip or just weight them for a little twitch glide bait. I use a Pasche single action airbrush and recomend anyone first getting started air brushing to get a single action siphon feed. Two reasons. Simple to use and second reason you wont spill the top loading cups of paint with the siphon feeds. I have been painting lures for 12 years both solvent and water based paints, Glows and epoxies. Dual action guns have a dual purpose switch/lever that operates both air and paint flow at the same time. This can be very helpfull in blending and art work but its overkill when it comes to painting Musky lures. Single action guns with #1 #3 and #5 tips will do everything you need for painting lures. I just start with a white base#5 tip then half colors with the #3 and finish with bars/dots,and other detail work using the #1 tip. Scale patterns with the #3 tip. Use water based paint like Createx and dont get sick from epoxy paints or other solvent paints like Laquer or automotive enamels. Createx is non toxic. Have fun with those blanks and catch a big one on a lure you made. Kingfisher |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | Great responses being posted here gang. 
I have to disagree on a dual action brush being overkill for a musky lure. That all depends on what kind of finished product the person is trying to achieve. It's a tougher market these days for anyone who is seriously wanting to sell baits. If you aren't able to mass produce, then selling each bait for a higher price and a better quality finish is the other option.
I learned how to airbrush on a dual action and after a few hours of practicing on paper, I managed to get a pretty decent result on my first attempt at painting a lure. That being said, the single action is for sure going to be a great way to get started but I do recommend a dual action where control is needed.
I have also been spraying with Createx and also COM-ART and both are excellent choices. Acrylics work too but need to be thinned out to spray properly. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 569
Location: Williamstown, WV | Thanks alot guys and thanks kingfisher and beaver for all you have done. You two may have gotten me really interested in lure making...thanks.
Shawn |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | I wont argue with Musky Snax work I should have said overkill on most patterns used on Musky lures. A dual action gun is a more sofisticated tool. They will do a lot more things than a single action. I have used both. If Im going to make a masterpiece Im using a dual action because I can get detail that is so intricate that it looks like taxidermy. But it takes to long to do that kind of work with one gun. Some of you guys should be doing Taxidermy because your skills are right up there. I would think there would be more money doing replicas than baits .I learned some neat tricks over the last 12 years that allow me to do some pretty nice patterns that catch fish. Im a paint mixer,blending Chameleons and Irredescents and such. I have a little trick that I have been doing where I can make a scale overlay shift and move with light changes making the lure come alive while it sits bobbing on the surface. This was one of my best producing patterns on twitch baits in 2006. Shawn, you will have fun building lures thats a given. Most of us guys do it because we want to do something great. Im kind of halfway between a mass producer and an artist. I am making a living selling lures. I love my job and I love my Boss I get to fish a lot and see others catch fish on my baits. I will never go plastic and never out source my work. I will however use a cad or CNC machine to make my bodies if I can ever find one I can afford. If I could make my bodies faster, more consistant and cheaper I could spend a lot more time in the paint room. But for now its White Belly perch know what I mean? Kingfisher
Edited by Kingfisher 1/5/2007 11:35 PM
|
|
| |
|
| Dual action is the only way to go |
|
| |
|
Posts: 619
Location: Verona, WI | Ok, broke down and bought an Iwata Eclipse BCS and it is light years beyond the VL and the Aztek that I have used in the past. Quick question for those of you using Createx paints. They are supposed to be ready to use but the opaques still seemed pretty thick and had a lot of spatter. Are you thinning them and if so any general guidelines?
Shane |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | I don't thin out my Createx paints but I know what you are experiencing. The opaques have a lot of pigment and this does make the brush clog faster. Be sure to always keep the air on when not spraying paint and use a wet Q-tip periodically to gently clean the tip of the needle and nozzle with the air on. This is what I do and it has been working well. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 140
| Snax,
What outlet air pressure do you set on your compressor? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | With my Iwata Sprint Jet compressor and an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush I have my pressure at 43 psi which drops to about 23 psi when spraying.
I'm about to recieve a new set up shortly which will allow me to run two airbrushes independantly on one compressor each at different pressures. The compressor I'm getting for that is an Iwata Hammerhead Shark model which also features a great moisture filter and 0-100 psi available pressure.
The other brush I'm getting is an Iwata Custom Micron CM-C Plus which will be used for very fine detailing at lower pressures. As with everything I use, I somehow always end up buying the very best, even when I really can't afford to! |
|
| |
|
Posts: 179
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan | WV Musky,
If you can afford it, don't mess around buy the best Iwata you can afford. You won't regret it. Trust me on this.... I have an Iwata Custom Micron SB which is a gravity side feed so you can see over the top of your work....... and it rocks! Quick color change, fast clean up, awesome adjustment setup....what else can I say....I owned Paasche and Badgers and they don't even compare.
Rod
Edited by rjbass 1/12/2007 12:50 AM
|
|
| |
|
| I'm going with the side feed too. I'm just used to paintng that way. I don't paint more than 5 or 6 of one color pattern at a time, so I don't need a lot of volume. It's not the top of the line, but after seeing the HP in action, it is much nicer quality and the results are better than my Pasche....and no needle changing.
I really like that I don't have to thin my paints to watery consistency, especially when I'm spraying pearls and metalics. Especially the pearls. One coat coverage with a little thicker consistency is going to be a time saver.
I'm going to have to wait for a while before I can get it, but I'll be making more lures in the meantime.
Been weighting 10"blanks for the past week, so the first ones should be ready for viewing pretty soon.
Beav |
|
| |
