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Posts: 561
Location: Monee, Illinois | Hey looking to get a new hook sharpner any idea's since my new Black Lab decided it was a great toy, just checking some sites and looking for the best and the easiest to use. Let me know what you all think...
pga |
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Location: Altoona, IA | I like the Luhr Jensen file myself, have tried others, this is by far the best of the ones I've used.. They're cheap as well!! Buy a couple.
Edited by matt ia 9/14/2006 6:54 PM
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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | Yep go with the yellow handle!
Mike |
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| I would suggest the 4" blade...not the 3"
Just my 2 cents worth!
Donnie  |
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Posts: 32926
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | I use the double chain saw files planted in a handle. One can make any size one wants, just use a wood dowel and two files, drill the dowel and epoxy the files in, black tape the tips. Makes a hypo out of a hook point. |
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Posts: 95
Location: LOTW every chance I get | Hey Steve,
Any chance you could post a pic of that contraption. Sounds interesting.
Thanks, Dave |
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Posts: 32926
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Sure, I'll build one tomorrow and shoot the thing. |
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Location: 31 | I use a 6" and 8" flat mill bastard file at home and the chain saw file in the boat for touch up. I jam the files into the wood handles tight without any glue or epoxy so I can still remove and rotate or change them. No problems with them falling out.
Steve's right about the extreme points you can obtain from the chainsaw files- fastest easiest way to a good point. I use the mill bastards to remove excess diameter to the barb on my casting lures for better hook penetration. It's most likely over kill on most fish, but when I try both types on a piece of leather the smaller diameter penetrates easier.
Farm and Fleet has everything in stock. |
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | JOMUSKY'S DOUBLE ROUND!
makes hooks sharp enough to make yer eyes bleed just looking at 'em. |
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| The round two file hook sharpener is a great idea....the only difference for me, I like to make the inside eadge a cutting knifelike edge, so as to "cut" into the fishes mouth, versus just puncturing it. Once the barbs penetrate, they are both valuable tools. Both work excellent!
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| Right on Donnie. A 6" slim triangle file works great for sharpening from hook tip to barb tip. The chain saw file R&Hs has is great for the tip. Small size. (Looks like a pen with a lanyard) the great big ones are worthless. |
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| I've had trouble keeping the file on the hook with the triangle myself, that's why I like that wide flat mill bastard. I think both have the same cut though. |
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Location: Contrarian Island | I picked a metal flat file at menards... the file piece is like 8" long and it does the job nicely..big easy to use handle...
Edited by MSKY HNR 9/15/2006 9:33 AM
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Posts: 1335
Location: Chicago, Beverly | like the other the yellow handle luhr jensen.. though I have the blue twin file and two smitty chain saw file ones that I use for touch up in the boat... |
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Posts: 1536
Location: God's Country......USA..... Western Wisconsin | Found this about the hook sharpener I have been using for over 20 years. Not Muskies but very large and tough fish. Go to the link that I attached below and then click on rigging tools, scroll to the bottom and click on page 2. You can order one at this site.
PEACOCK BASS FISHING RECOMMENDATIONS
* We recommend the Browning reels because of the drag systems. The Browning reels that we recommend are the Browning Midas 6 and the Midas 6W. Garcia 5500C is an excellent reel as well.
* We recommend the 80 lb 100% pure spectra braided Izorline brand line. If you cannot find the 800 Izorline at your local dealer, other brands recommended are T.U.F.-Line, Lynch Line and Magic Braid. For information on T.U.F-line call Ron Totten at 210-659-5268; for the Lynch Line call Terry Oldham at 512-847-2842; and for Magic Braid call Rob Cooper at 214-358-4941.
* Rods -- Most good medium heavy action (long handle) bass rods 6'6" or longer will work fine for the big peacock. If you don't have this type rod, we strongly recommend the All Star SJ2 or All Star MWR2 fishing rods. Fishing World in Dallas is a dealer or call Don Butler at Okiebug at 918-662-2657.
* Hook Sharpener - The 4X strong mustad hooks really need sharpening and we highly recommend the Point Maker electric hook sharpener made by Texas Taclde. You can call them at 214-234-2628.
http://www.jdsbiggame.com/catalog.asp
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Location: 31 | THose Peacock Bass sound like a riot... some day. I tried an electric hook sharpener back in the late 80's and went back to using the hand files because I'm so dam picky. I gave the electric to a friend who likes it and still uses it to this day... guess you never know what will work best for you unless you try them out yourself.
Oh, one last thought (ok 2) on this hook subject. I also liked the knife edge sharpening method once upon a time until a boat side strike got all wrapped up in the line and the hook cut the line so cleanly it looked like a knife cut it... imagine that?
Like I said earlier a 5/0 with the extra material removed for the smaller diameter punched threw the leather I used like a regular "point only sharpened" 2/0 hook... it just takes so freaking long to work the hook diameter down that I only do that on my casting and very special first team trolling baits any more. Earlier this year a friend wanted to borrow a couple extra 5/0's hafter cutting them out of a fish and I told him no way because I have 15 mins in each one sharpening... he dug threw his box and "borrowed" his own
Edited by Jerry Newman 9/15/2006 12:04 PM
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Posts: 3908
| I'm a way-carried-away hook sharpenen' fool. I'm looking forward to steve's pic, but already I'm critical. To use one of those two file side-by-side deals, you end up with a tiny bent-over-bur pointed toward the hook shank. Don't know how you can avoid that with a twin chainsaw file operation. Can't be avioded. And that means the hook is not as sharp as it might be, and after the first real pressure on the point the bur is folded further down, meaning an even less sharp hook. Burs are bad.
I use a very very high quality metal file, it's about 5" long, 1.5" wide, not flat on each side, but each side has two sides coming up to a central point. In other words, the slope is very low; at a glance you would think it's just a two-sided file. But I really have 4 total faces on the file. Expensive file, very high quality, I added to the width of the "handle" with simple black electric tape. VEry tight, almost like a wooden handle. Gotta be able to hold it tight, no slop anywhere.
Working it...oh, jeeze, how can I describe this... Looking at the front of the hook, with the shank being behind the front as you hold it up in front of yer face...I file the left and the right sides of the front of the hook, from bottom to top, until it begins to be scary sharp. Maybe 45 degree angle, but maybe less, like 35 degree. After I'm done with the front. I take the file to the back of the hook point, and I VERY lightly burn off the bur I created by working on the "front" of the hook. Then I paint the newly exposed metal with a perm majic marker to coat it to prevent corrosion.
After sharpening a hook point, slide a fingernail up, from lower to upper, toward the point of your hook to see if you have a bur. Do it from a couple angles. Any bur means your hook can be sharper.
My left thumnail is like, deformed, from the filing I do. Has to do with how I hold the hook when I file, the file hits the nail a lot.
Last last.......I know chainsaw files. These days I run a Jonsared 5024 Turbo and I touch up the chain every time I gas up. If the chips aren't almost as big as my pinkie finger nail, the saw ain't sharp enough.
You betcha. |
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Posts: 561
Location: Monee, Illinois | Thanks guys, I orderd two from Rollie's and got two from the hardware store yesterday. Still would like to see Steve's home made one.....I think the posts where very well in this area and I liked Rangers step by step post...
pga |
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Posts: 484
Location: St. Louis, MO., Marco Is., FL, Nestor Falls, ON | And I thought I was the only one with a deformed thumb nail from hook sharpening. |
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Posts: 1270
| I've used the double chain saw file before and have never been satisfied with the point it put on the hook. The Luhr Jenson is a good file but is a little short in my opinion. I am now using the Smitty file which has a blade about 5" long.
One tip I found on hook sharpening is to hold the hook with a vise-grips. This makes it much easier on your hands plus it keeps your hands away from the other hooks on the bait. |
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Posts: 1335
Location: Chicago, Beverly | yeah Reelman, every spring after the shows I end up with a pretty odd looking thumb nail also..LMAO... if the weight of the bait cant get the hooks to stick in my nail it needs work for sure... |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | A flat file works very well. I use the fine side of the file that comes on my Leatherman. You can buy the yellow handled files and they work well but make sure it stays dry at all times it or will rust right up on you.
Hold with the point of the hook up and facing you. Now file on one side of the hook a few strokes and then the other...go easy, it only takes a tiny bit of effort. Then go a couple strokes along along the top of the hook...so you sharpen it three sides. After you are done, hold the tip of the hook on top of your thumbnail, this makes is very easy to see what the tip looks like. The tip should get gradually sharper and sharper as you move toward the tip. If it thins down only at the end you are holding the file at too much of angle. The file should be held just a short distance off of the hook shank...after you do some you will be able to get any hook to a needle point with ease.
RM
Edited by RiverMan 9/16/2006 2:59 PM
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