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| I am trying to build a back casting deck extension (removable) on the back of my 16 foot aluminum boat. I glued and screwed two 1/2 inch pieces of plywood together for the decking board. I then carpeted it. The problems is no matter how straight of board you pick at the lumber yard, it's going to eventually warp, which mine did. How can I make this board straight again so it fits on my aluminum braces properly (flat, no bow)?
Any thoughts?  |
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Posts: 956
Location: Home of the 2016 World Series Champion Cubs | Just open some of that spam in your e-mail box. All kinds of ways and claims on how to get a bigger deck. And most of them are guaranteed or your money back. |
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Posts: 6
| Try an aluminum channel frame around the outside and down the middle |
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Posts: 358
Location: London, England | I've coated the plywood casting deck I made for my boat with epoxy resin after it was glued and screwed together. Hopefully that will keep the water out. Bracing it with aluminium channel sounds like a good idea too if the span is too long for 1" of plywood not to sag with someone standing on it. |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | bump it up to 5/8 or 3/4 inch, be sure and hit it good with the water seal first.
You can also screw some cross bracing underneath for strength and warp-resistance. m |
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Posts: 40
| We were having the same problem. So, we came up with an idea to solve two problems. Support the deck extension and find a place for all those lures. The extension is attached using a piano hinge that allows it to be swung up or down. The "legs" are two boxes that hold four large "plano" tackle boxes for storing lures, etc. We used 1/2 baltic birch plywood that was sealed numerous times. On the front, I doubled up the plywood and attached with screws and marine grade glue. We added a 1.5 inch aluminum corner piece on the front to add some durability. One could add some angle iron underneath for additional support. However, the platform is plenty strong with the boxes. Overall, it is about 5 feet by 2 feet. We also added the seat platform. This is one a Lund 1700 Pro Sport. It works great.
Edited by cnnemusky 8/18/2006 6:17 AM
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Posts: 82
Location: Cottage Grove, Mn | Jim;
Depending how wide your extension is, I'd try the following. Rip some 3/4" thick oak to 1 3/4" strips. Bisquit and glue to bot of plywood in a perpendicular direction. Put on 6" centers and you should have a strong warp free extension. The other means would be build similar to a torsion box: using 3/8" interior plywood top and bot with a web frame inside. Lastly you can install some steel angle iron on sides and ends of extension, and a hinged leg support in the center. Let us know how you do. |
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| Thanks all.
I am going to review all the ideas and try to come up with a fix. I am 90% done with the project so I'm really not interested in starting over at this point.
If I wasn't a perfectionist I could just leave it as it is (aluminum channel slanted to support the board), but I will continue to tweak. I'll try to post pictures of the final outcome. By the way, nice idea building in the tackle box slots! |
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| Nice job on the rear casting deck cnnemusky! I've made and remade casting decks in my boats over the years and the one thing I try to do is keep it light weight yet strong. My current 18' Crestliner was converted from a "fish & ski" to a "fish and muskie" with new casting decks.
I've found a 5 ply 1/2" CDX fir plywood with alum bracing works best. Be certain the plywood is not pine because it can warp. I just roll some paint on the wood before I glue the carpet, certainly epoxy resin would be better if your boat sees a lot of weather. I used the 1/2" with extra alum braces over the 3/4" to keep the weight down, the 1/2" 5 ply fir is equal to the 5/8" 4 ply fir IMHO. Fun stuff! |
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| First of all, you have to use 3/4" ply for strength. If you can get away with doubling up the 3/4" that's even better. Make sure you cut the second one with the grain of the wood going in the opposite direction, this will make it even stronger and tougher to warp. Get a tube of liquid nails and some 1 1/4" stainless wood screws and screw the SH!T out of it on both sides. You now have a deck that you can jump on and is strong as #@*&!!!!!!!!
DON'T use treated wood, it will warp BAD no matter what you do to it.
After you have your plywood screwed together take it out to the garage and seal it with a good marine grade sealer on all sides with multiple coats. I've done this on many boats and they last forever. The only thing that hurts the deck is the carpet because it will trap water and keep it wet. When you install the carpet, use a good outdoor glue (for carpets) and make sure you use the right trowel for the application. This will help keep out the water and keep the carpet from coming up on you.
This extension will last you a long long time and is cheap and easy to do.
GOOD LUCK!
Ralph Florio
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| Good point on the grain of the plywood Ralph! The reason the treated plywood can warp is because it's pine. I used 3/4" fir plywood for decking on my last boat (18' Starcraft) and ended up with a boat that was heavy, it rode nice in rough water, but took away from the top end speed due to the extra weight. If you build a good crossed braced frame from alum angle or wood and cover with painted 5 ply fir plywood it should be plenty strong and hold up well. |
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Posts: 5
| Well, I got r done. I decided to install all my aluminum braces straight and the deck actually fit quite well, not 100% to perfection but very close. I will try to post a picture....
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| Oh no... looks like the whole thing will have to be redone campfire... that carpet is at least a 1/2 shade off!
Heehaw... just kidding, I like the center support and way you left the storage compartment open and easily accessible. Looks like a professional job to me:) |
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Posts: 5
| LOL......yea, the boat manufacturer ( through a marina) wanted $55.00 plus shipping for the exact matching carpet, of course it wouldn't have matched exactly due the boat carpet fading over the last two years. Cabelas wanted $15.00 for the same piece of carpet, so even as anal as I am about doing it right, I couldn't see paying four times as much for a little better color match. By the way, when I talked to a marina about the carpet price, the sales rep asked me if I wanted it 6 foot by 3 foot or 3 foot by 6 foot....hmmmmm, that's a tough decision! |
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| What a hoot! Maybe it's the way they were going to roll it up for you dude?
Actually there is a natual "sweep" (that's what a carpet guy called it) to carpet that I'm sure your salesman had no clue about... either...
What do you expect from a "boat salesman" hehe... oops, sorry bout that Steve |
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Posts: 5
| You're right, it did have something to do with the grain or sweep, but when that phone call woke me up from a dead sleep and they asked if I wanted it 6x3 or 3x6, I was a little confused and speechless, LOL.
Anyway, I think my fishing partners will now have it much better in the stern. Most 16-17 foot walleye boats don't have near enough platform room to move around. Once you add the butt seat you can't get around it without constantly jumping on and off the platform. The one inch deck I added is very sturdy and I hope someone will slime it up soon..... |
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| Good luck with that slime coat Campfire!
I just read a post on another board and it jogged my memory and wanted to clarify one point for anyone else who might be reading this before they start building their casting deck. WHen I said I used the 3/4" fir on my old Starcraft and it made the boat too heavy I actually used the pricey "marine grade" 3/4" plywood which is even heavier on two large casting decks. The marine grade plywood (it's treated) is very good material, it's the green treated or regular pine that can warp. |
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