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Posts: 162
Location: East Troy, WI | i was going to paint a few blanks just to see if i like it... i've made tons of bucktails ... infact too many to put in a tackle box and take with me...
i was thinking about painting a hellhound, docs, believers... someone please give me info on how exactly they would paint them.
right down to the brand of paint and everything and what to seal it with and all that stuff... thank you guys...
i do have an airbrush too... a badger 250
THANKS AGAIN
DAVE K |
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Posts: 162
Location: East Troy, WI | ANYONE????????????? |
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Posts: 4266
| Don't want to sound like a smart ass, but every body does things differently and some things the same.
If I went through the steps, I have to write an article.
Do a search about lure painting. Go to luemaking.nl......or luremaking.nl
It's a site from Europe wuth some great start to finish stuff.
Beav |
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Posts: 162
Location: East Troy, WI | yeah i've looked on there... says nothing about painting plastic blanks for muskies... |
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It's not that easy... some products don't work well together. Some do.. It's a learning process. I'd love to see Beav's article I suspect that it would be ALOT closer to a book than an article.
Take a look at the model (Car, plane, etc) painting sites across the internet. It's as Beav said done differently by everyone. You need to get your paint to stick (use a hair dryer) with Createx and then what you coat them with. On plastic a auto clear will probably work best.
Use google:
http://www.createxcolors.com/
http://ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2002/03/stuff_eng_tech_car_paint....
The auto
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Posts: 162
Location: East Troy, WI | Thank you Mr. Cady |
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Posts: 4266
| Go to some paint or airbrush sites. Many of them have books that really help explain the process.
Sometimes a phonecall to the manufacturers tech people can help too.
Beav |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | This will get your started:
If your blanks are clear or already painted, first spray them with a while rattle can paint...let dry. I shoot water based paints from my airbrush, createx you can order it or get it at many hobby stores. Don't dilute the paints and shoot them at 40 or 50 PSI. Let dry. Now spray on three coats of Rustoleum Lacquer, let dry about 15 mins between coats. You are good to go!
Jed V.
Bikini Bait Co. |
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Posts: 162
Location: East Troy, WI | how well does that rustoleum lacquer hold up... and do you know if thats what drifter and ERC use on their lures??? |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | I have no idea what they use. The lacquer will not hold up nearly as well as a thick clear coat like Devcon, Etex, etc. I recommended the Rustoleum to you because you said you are painting plastic baits. Often times the action of plastics will be ruined if you use a thick clear coat...this is why you don't see a real thick coat on these baits.
jed v. |
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Posts: 162
Location: East Troy, WI | what about that Etex that comes in spray form.... would that be better? |
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| You have an air-brush, so if I were you I would go to the House of Kolor website.
Find the heading for clearcoats, and buy a urethane clearcoat. It's great for someone who doesn't want a heavy build up top coat.
If you use it, you need 3 parts. The urethane clear, a catalyst and a reducer to thin it out to spray out of an airbrush.
It's a 2-1-1 ratio, but you can spray on several light layers and get a rock hard finish. I use E-Tex in a can, but only for walleye lures. It wouldn't hold up to muskies. |
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Posts: 162
Location: East Troy, WI | thanks a lot guys... i am totally new to this... thanks for the responses and everything...
Dave K |
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Posts: 162
Location: East Troy, WI | beaver, im sorry about this.. but i have a question... ok i went on the houseofkolor website... sorta confused... but i would think these products would be the ones i would want to get....
KOSMIC KOLOR ®URETHANE ENAMEL KANDYS
CATALYST (KU100)
and the question is... what reducer to use...
im guessing the fast dry... but just wondering what one would work best..
thank you
dave k |
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Posts: 4266
| What you listed first was paint, not a clear coat.
I'll get your e-mail off of your bio if it's there and send a shortcut right to the product page.
You want a Urethane Klear if you just want a top coat.
I always use the fast drying reducer. When they say fast, believe me it's fast. Read the data sheets because some work better when it's humid in the summer.
I supposed that I should mention.........you have to use these out in a well ventilated area, and you have to make sure that they will work with the paint that you are using.
It's made to coat urethane, polyurethane and any of their Shinirin' Basecoats, but I've used it on Kandys and Pearls too.
What kind of paint are you planning on using?
(Cady was right, it would be a book.) After you decide what paint you are using, call that manufacturer and ask them if the clear that you want to use is going to work with the paint without ruining it. Nothing is worse than watching your nice paint job go sliding onto the floor after you spray the top coat on. Bubbles and cracks will P you off too.
Knowing what kind of paint will help in the decision making process.
Lacquer paint- Lacquer top coat........and so on, and so on.
Beav |
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