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| I have a rear trailer light out on my Shorelander. It looks like I can't even take the lens off to replace the bulb.
Brake light and blinker work on this particular light, but not the running light.
Is the bulb bad or do I perhaps some wiring issue?
Also, if it is the bulb and I can't get at it, do I need to replace the whole light?
Thanks - Midge |
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Posts: 2091
Location: Stevens Point, WI | Sounds like you have an all in one sealed unit. I have seen these on many trailers and usually you have to replace the whole thing. |
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Posts: 43
Location: Kalamazoo | They pull out from the bottom if it is anything like my shorelander. There should be a little prong that you press and the GUTs will come out. Change the bulb then. at least, this is how my shorelander is... call me tonight at 630.728.2876 after 5 and I can go out to my boat and tell you how mine is, I suspect your MIGHT be the same |
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Posts: 43
Location: Kalamazoo | i could also send you a pic later too ball cap |
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Posts: 1335
Location: Chicago, Beverly | Check your ground. Might save you some trouble if that is all it is... Otherwise call Shane... Shorelandr's should all be the same unless you got the sealed lens mentioned above.. |
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| Ballcap please post how this problem was fixed. I have the same problem on my shorelander. The side marker and the running light don't work but brake and turn signal are ok. |
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Posts: 1335
Location: Chicago, Beverly | See my post above Ben, what you describe was one of the trailers I fixed... |
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Posts: 389
Location: Corning, Iowa | I posted in April that my side marker lights went out going down the road. Well I replaced them, and maybe a hundred miles, they just broke loose.When you take the units off of the fenders,the bulbs just rattle in the units. It seems like it only happens when the lights are on. I hate electrical problems. Thanks Doug |
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Posts: 333
Location: menasha wi 54952 | Ballcap,
If all the other lights work on the trailer and you are ONLY missing the running light it is the bulb. If it is a sealed module you will have to replace the module.
I have seen people drill holes in their modules to replace the bulb but that will cause corrosion problems in the future.
MR |
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| Ballcap did you get this fixed yet? My lights slide out of the bottom of the lense, there's a tab that says lift. Pull the tab towards you and slide the lights down. Also on my trailer all of the wiring was done with 2 prong conectors. The four prong splits in the tongue to two two prongs and one grond.These wires run to the tail light where there is another 2 prong connector thats wired to the lights. There are two 1/4-20 carriage bolts that hold the lense on the trailer, you need to remove the lense to access the end connectors.If you have side markers on the fenders this wire shoots forward from the tail light on the wire in the middle of the trailer. The ground for the side marker runs from the side marker to the taillight.Hope this helps.
Ben |
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| Yeah, thanks boys.
I finally did get the "lift" tab and pull down to work. Really stuck until I put all my weight into it.
Replaced all burnt out bulbs and a fixed a loose ground wire.
Hopefully this fixes all my problems. If I keep blowing fuses, I don't know what else could be wrong. |
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Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Hey Ball Cap- If you're blowing fuses it could be two possibilities.
1. Wires that are shorting to the frame of the trailer. Carefully inspect any point where the wires pass through holes in the frame of trailer (especially if there are no rubber grommets) or where they are routed over the edges of the trailer frame or the metal light brackets. The vibration of normal road travel can cause the wire insulation material to scuff/wear through and short the wire out. Some electrical tape at these points is a good solution. Also you can buy rubber grommets at most hardware stores, just cut the grommet and install in the frame hole around the existing wiring.
2. The trailer lights are overloading the vehicle circuit. This is unlikely with most newer vehicles designed for towing. However it can be a possibility if your trailer has an large amount of running lights. The new LED (Light Emitting Diode) type lights are a good solution for this type of problem as they draw way less current.
I finally got fed up replacing the sealed light bulb assemblies on my Skeeter trailer and went to the LED's (~$35 at Gander Mountain). Considering the high replacement costs of the sealed assemblies versus a single bulb it was a good investment.
Good luck.
Al |
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