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Message Subject: HELP lure clearcoat failing | |||
gear jammer |
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Posts: 79 Location: michigan | I been making some baits and there is a problem. The finish coat (epoxy) is cracking and peeling off. Does anybody know why? Has anyone had this problem? It's frustrating to put the time and effort in to these baits to have them do this. I've been using Devcon 2 part epoxy, and used some other stuff from a hobby store with the same results. any helpful suggestions would be great. heres an example of whats happening. Jim Attachments ---------------- misc.jpg (95KB - 107 downloads) misc 037.jpg (94KB - 111 downloads) | ||
jerkin |
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Posts: 226 Location: W. PA. | Are you sealing and priming before painting? Looks like everything is coming off of the wood, not just the clear. | ||
lobi |
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Posts: 1137 Location: Holly, MI | I'll tell you what else NOT to use. The flex-coat for covering threads in rod making. Peels off too. There must be a reason why so many of the wood bait makers just use urathane or spar varnish. I've had good luck with just clearcoat spray-bomb cans of enamel. Not as tough as epoxy but it stays on. | ||
Dave Mendel |
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The epoxy is probably too "Hot" for the finish coat of paint, and the solvents in the epoxy are lifting the paint off. | |||
Musky_Slayer |
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Try smething with a slwer cure time. Devcn is superhard and thus cracks. Flex coat is better because it is nt as hard. | |||
muskynightmare |
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Posts: 2112 Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | Hi. As a Bait maker, I have to ask, how long has the paint had a chance to dry before coating? Is it in your basement? do you have a dehumidifier? I am not trying to be a smarta$$, but these are all factors, as well as compatibility between the paint and top coat. I run Createx, a water-based paint. After the final paint coat, I let my bait dry at least 24 hours with the dehumidifier running in my basement. I use a industrial urethane as a topcoat. I dip it 5 times, allowing at least 30 minutes between dips, again running the dehumidifier full blast. If you wanted to come down (or over) sometime, I'd be willing to show you how i do things, for a few of your baits. I also build websites for people for baits, with free hosting. I hope this helps, Rob | ||
h2os2t |
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Posts: 941 Location: Freedom, WI | Like jerkin said make sure you use a good sealer and primer on the wood . My guess buy looking at the picture. Water got under the epoxy (around screw eyes, lip or hook puntures) and the wood soaked it up and expanded. cracking the epoxy and the paint stuck to the epoxy not the wood, thus the need for good sealer and primer. | ||
out2llunge |
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Posts: 393 Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | Was your wood fully dry before painting? Did you "test" your bait in a pool or lake and then paint before it was completely dry? Proper primers, sealers, paints and topcoats are all necessary. Just as important is the need for each to thoroughly dry before the next one is applied. Moisture of some sort was likely underneath the top coat. | ||
Beaver |
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Posts: 4266 | Seal/prime everything. Make sure your paint is compatible with your sealer/primer. Make sure your top coat is compatible with your paint. It happens to everybody at least once or twice. You have to make sure that everything that you use is made to be used with the other products. I used that epoxy for other things, but not as a top coat. Take a blank piec of wood and test your stuff on something other than a lure body before you use it. Some things work together, some don't. Beav | ||
gear jammer |
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Posts: 79 Location: michigan | Thanks for the advice everyone. You've given me some things to concider. my practice is as follows 1. shallac to seal the bare wood 2. coat of white spray paint 3. paint using hobby store paints (waterbase) 4. epoxy lure I do believe my drying time after final paint might not be long enough. Jim | ||
RiverMan |
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I agree with Lunge, it's the dry time giving you the problem. Make sure you let the shellac dry at least 24 hours and give the paint another 24. I have used Devcon in the past and some guys really like it but I much prefer Envirotex now. Both of these products will give you problems tho if you don't allow enough dry time. Good luck! Jed www.bikinibaitcompany.com | |||
Beaver |
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Posts: 4266 | If you use shallac to seal the lure or sanding sealer, make sure and use some steel wool to rough up the shellac a little so the paint has something to stick to. If the paint doesn't have the right adhesive properties, it will peel right off of a slick surface. I learned that one the hard way. I peeled off an entire side of a lure that looked like a fish skin that left a shiny slick wood surface behind. Try sandable primer too. It comes in a spray can at most hobby stores and make a great base layer. Beav | ||
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