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Muskie Fishing -> General Discussion -> Starter Trolling Set-up
 
Message Subject: Starter Trolling Set-up
esox50
Posted 12/25/2004 10:15 PM (#129535)
Subject: Starter Trolling Set-up





Posts: 2024


I consider myself a newbie troller. Haven't even logged in two hours doing it. My home water is Lake Shelbyville, a large shad based reservoir. I have a few questions:

1) Opinions on casting rods vs. trolling specific rods?
2) How about reels?
3) Leaders?
4) Baits?
5) I just got two Cabela's rod holders that (correct me if I'm wrong) are made by Scotty. What kind of set-up should one use with two rod holders. Would it be worth getting another two?
6) Any other info you could offer a newbie?

Thanks much!
Webguy
Posted 12/26/2004 8:21 AM (#129539 - in reply to #129535)
Subject: RE: Starter Trolling Set-up





Posts: 294


Location: Suspended
Here's my 2-cents: I'd suggest utilizing your existing equipment to start and fine tune from there.

1) Long limber rods are better for trolling. Flex is needed to absord shock when fish strike and take up slack when they thrash around, especially if using super-lines. If your rods are heavy and stiff use heavy mono line.

2) A loud clicker and good drag are key, I like the Diawa Sealine SG27 reels (line counters are nice but not necessary). Keep that drag loose to avoid break-offs.

3) 3ft Leaders of 50lb. flourocarbon minimum, a swivel above, and a Stringease snap at the end are durable and minimize damage to fish if they roll.

4) Deep divers like Jakes, Believers, Ernies, etc are great because you can run them shallow on a short line or deep when out long.

5) Multiple lines allow depth coverage by varying the amount of line out. Experiment at different depths keeping the lines far enough apart to avoid tangles, try the 10ft rule. Four lines can easily be run without problems, 2 front rods with tips down and short line and 2 back with tips up higher and more line out. The Down-East S-10 Salty rod holders are great as an option to add.

6) Experiment with trolling depths, going deep (down to 20') can be a good option in summer and winter.

I hope this helps, have a happy!
BenR
Posted 12/26/2004 10:13 AM (#129545 - in reply to #129535)
Subject: RE: Starter Trolling Set-up


On your lake, you can use your normal casting equipment for the most part. Your fishing will be in the top 10 feet of water. Bright colored jakes and believers will do nice for you. I really like the 9 inch cisco kid as well. Also if that is not going, a got a 40lb plus or minus a pound on a lil ernie is crappie trolling as well. May and June are big trolling bites...good luck and watch the hot water in the summer..give them a rest...Ben
esox50
Posted 12/26/2004 10:29 AM (#129547 - in reply to #129535)
Subject: RE: Starter Trolling Set-up





Posts: 2024


BenR,
Do you fish Shelbyville much?

Thanks folks! Keep the info coming!!
BenR
Posted 12/26/2004 10:31 AM (#129548 - in reply to #129535)
Subject: RE: Starter Trolling Set-up


Hello, I used to fish it quite a bit. However i moved out east and fish here now. Most of my fishing was on kinkaid, but I have spent alot of time on shelbyville. Lots of nice fish... If you are going to be trolling two rods, I would put one out the back short near the prop wash and the other off to the side. However don't fish too deep....lot of people troll below the fish....good luck...Ben
Red Man
Posted 1/2/2005 6:27 PM (#130183 - in reply to #129535)
Subject: RE: Starter Trolling Set-up


Type in rocketman, hit search, and you will get all you need to know about getting started the right way. Some of my favorite lures have been mentioned, but don't forget about Super Shad Raps. If you don't run boards when the fish are high, you will be missing fish. Walleye boards are the best, and will pull a 8in. Believer on the deep setting with 2oz.'s of weight 6ft. in front. I drill new holes farther forward so I can move the weight more to the front. I also put Offshore releases on the back becouse I like the board to release from the line. I also put flags on them and bend them to the foam side so I can find them in rough water. I use Ugly Stick Big Water 6ft.6in. Med.Hvy. action boat rods for my down rods, 7ft. med. Hvy. Big Water Custom casting rods for out rods. boards, and down riggers, and 10ft. dipsy rods for long rods and boards. Penn 310 and 320's are rocks! Graphite rods are not good for trolling becouse they will explode in cold weather when you get hit at 4 or 5 m.p.h. pulling a 10in. Believer on the deep setting with 8oz.'s of weight on a 15ft. line. Don't expect to rape the lake trolling, it is just another tool. There will be plenty of days you never get a rip! A drag set too tight is worse than too loose. Too tight and something breaks,or you tear the hooks out of the fish. I have never found a better way to eat sandwiches and drink coffee! Look for the shad and work them hard when you find them in round balls. I have made as many as twelve passes before I got hit. Sometimes you won't get hit, but when you think you have made enough passes, make one more! Later
esox50
Posted 1/2/2005 7:33 PM (#130193 - in reply to #129535)
Subject: RE: Starter Trolling Set-up





Posts: 2024


Red Man,
I tried typing in "rocketman" on Google and nothing came up (nothing fishing related anyway). What site are you referring to?
EsoxRookie
Posted 1/2/2005 8:01 PM (#130194 - in reply to #130193)
Subject: RE: Starter Trolling Set-up





Posts: 107


Location: milwaukee
Try searching rocketman +"st. clair" and you should find

http://www.muskie-lures.com/rocketman/index1.htm

I like his idea of using a bow mounted sonar as a forward looking unit, but didn't have much success with it this year. Anybody else do this and find it useful?
lobi
Posted 1/2/2005 8:50 PM (#130201 - in reply to #129535)
Subject: RE: Starter Trolling Set-up





Posts: 1137


Location: Holly, MI
Webguy has it pretty well said. Here are a few additions I would add..

I run 5 foot mono leaders in 50 lb mono for two reasons, the mono is much more supple and you will not dapen the action of the lure as much and 5 ft because I snap on weights on the rod end of the leader and don't want it too close to the lure. I switched from floro to mono all last year and had zero bite offs or lost fish because of it.

Believers are great trolling lures, don't be afraid of the 10 inchers. They pull like crazy at 5 mph so stout rods are a must.

Spend your money (when you feel the need) on Down east rod holders. Pay the extra for the powder coated ones, I didn't and now will be so I'm buying them twice. Best rod holder out there, bar none, for heavy fish trolling. Super strong, very adjustable, and instantly releasable for fish fighting.

The Rocket Mans site has tons of great info. He trolls 100% and is #*^@ good at putting lots of muskie in the boat.

If you can spare the room in the boat go with the big double wooden boards for planers. Over half of our fish this year came off the boards and the biggest fish all were off the boards.

The clips by off shore tackle (OR16, i think) are mighty strong and my favorite by far.

All my trolling rods are spooled up with 30 pound mono. I want the strech for trolling and the superlines won't stay in a planer board clip.

The 50 lb mono leaders have just a snap at the lure end (no swivle) to keep that end light as not to dampen the lure action. On the rod end of the leader I often use a 3 way swivle to make it easy to clip on weight.

Run your down rods, tips in the water, way up front of the boat with no more than 6 or 8 feet of line out. Sounds crazy but these rods produce a lot of fish on Lake St Clair anyway. If I'm not using much weight I can see the lure swimming next to the boat.

My down rods get between 6 and 24 ounces of lead weight. Board rods get zero to 6 ounces.

The weights will also help catch weeds if they are a problem. I have added a blunted 7/0 hook where I attach my weight also if the weeds are bad. This grabs them pretty wekk but don't forget it is there when landing a fish.

I run long graphite rods on the planer boards so I can tell from the rod tip if the lure has weeds or is running right. My down rods and boat rods (in the wash) are the Shimano TDR Salmon trolling rods.

We almost always have at least one rod in the propwash. I mean right in the wash maybe only 6 or 8 feet out. Again the rod tip is down in the water to the side of the motor.

The Sealine reels mentioned are awesome and will last a lifetime but they are not cheap. You can also get the Daiwa Sealine in a SL175H (non line counter) much less expensive and still built like a brick s*it house. I run a couple of these also. Ebay has them used for around $20 sometimes. I prefer the line counters for consistancy on my board rods. I'll start the board rods 20 feet behind the board and if it is working I'll want to duplicate it.

For higher speed trolling the Rocketmans lures can't be beat but they are almost impossible to get. Loke's and Wiley's are both awesome. Believers troll well also but clip on to the deep setting for sure.

I usually troll 6 to 7 inchers (jointed) in the spring and most of the summer and switch to the bigger stuff and more straights in the fall.

This is getting long winded so I'll quit but most of all have a blast no matter what you use or catch. They can seem very color selective also. If we get a fish on somthing we will switch to more of the same or related colors.

out2llunge
Posted 1/3/2005 7:33 PM (#130285 - in reply to #129535)
Subject: RE: Starter Trolling Set-up




Posts: 393


Location: Kawarthas, Ontario
Here's some more info for you from a PM I sent to another member. Attached is a pic of 3 baits that I troll with on all of my rods. The smallest bait is about the size of a 10" Jake for your reference.

There are sooo many choices, it really depends on your budget and how often the person will be trolling - once a year, hundred times a year. Don't go overboard if it's the former.

I have a number of trolling outfits. Generally speaking glass rods are more forgiving in the cold temps when trolling up big hawgs is normally done.

The Shimano TDR series rods (really made for downrigging) are a good rod. I have two a TDR 1703 and an 1803. I know a guide who uses the TDR 1903's, just a little longer and more forgiving with newbies.

I also use the Abu Garcia Workhorse series rod - can't remember the exact model right now.

If price isn't a big deal than the St. Croix rods for catfish fishing are very popular with the boys who troll BIG (12 - 18" baits) for many hours at a time. It's what I'd buy if I was trolling trophy waters with regualrity.

As for reels, I use Daiwa Sealine LG 47LC line counter reels. I also use their new Accudepth(?) series reel for wire lining. It has the line counter too, but has brass gears instead of bronze. I just got it this year and so far so good.

If you don't want to spend the $ on a line counter (Which you should for precision trolling situations), you can also by Penn reels. Lots of models 209, 309, GTI 320 and so on. I have some Penns that are 40 years old and still work like new. They're heavy, but quality made for sure.

As for lines, 80 lb Power Pro, 40 pound wire, heavy dacron and even mono are all good choices. It mostly depends on preference. I like 80 lb. PP and wire. I used to use the mono, but find I get more depth with the PP.

Finally match up the outfit with quality terminal tackle. There's no point losing expensive baits. I use 90, 130, and 200 lb. fluoro, 140 lb and single strand wire for leaders, stayloks snaps and a good swivel.

Don't forget rod holders. You won't want to hang to the rod with it pumping a big bait. Even little baits will tire you out. Choose "down easters or Scotty strikers" They're both made tough. You'll hear loads of arguments for both, but they're both the only two (commercially made ones) that I would choose.

Edited by out2llunge 1/3/2005 7:37 PM



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