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Posts: 189
Location: Hoboken, NJ / North Webster, IN | I really would like to start building some of my own jerks and crank baits, but don't know the first thing about getting started. Can anyone direct me to a site that can help? Looking for basic instruction, material guide(wood, paint, clear coat, etc.), and somehwere to buy the hardware.
Thanks |
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Posts: 600
Location: West Bend, WI | www.tackleunderground.com |
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Posts: 600
Location: West Bend, WI | www.lurebuilding.nl |
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Posts: 1137
Location: Holly, MI | The back of Rollie -n- Helens catalog has some stuff too. They have the heavy duty lips and the large heavy gauge screw eyes. Don't buy any chrome plated brass eyes they are way soft, only buy the stainless ones. Be sure to pre drill for screw eyes or you will split wood. I use standard 2 part epoxy for covering. I rig them up to my rod drying motor for a nice finish. That way you can brush on the epoxy instead of dipping the entire lure, that wastes too much epoxy. Making lures is a great winter pastime and is very rewarding when you catch a ski on one of your own.
Here is a "Punkinseed" I just finished today. Didn't want to bother with the airbrush so I just got out the acrylic model paints and a brush.
Attachments
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 Punkinseed.jpg (107KB - 130 downloads)
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Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | Aside from those already mentioned...
Building sites:
www.geocities.com/out2llunge - my site, mostly crankbait building/painting and will get major updates as the months progress
www.tacklemaking.com - not so good anymore, server's down too much, but good info none the less
Materials sites:
www.luremaking.com - prices in CDN dollars, lots of different supplies
www.mooreslures.com - not a great website, but get a catalog, lots of good supplies
Be patient, read lots, experiment and ask lots of questions. Don't get disillusioned if initial results aren't good. Some baits are harder tha others to make. BTW, I'm doing a free bait making workshop January 17 in Toronto.
Good luck,
o2l |
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Posts: 189
Location: Hoboken, NJ / North Webster, IN | Thank's fellas. Great references...can't wait to start getting into it....wood, paint, hardware and all. Random question for you guys. I'm a digital photographer/artist and was wondered if it was possible to design something, print it out, and attach it to a lure, then apply the clear coat over it. Would the epoxy eat away the paper? Is the epoxy water proof enough to protect the paper?
Also, in making a walk the dog type jerk bait(magic maker, fat flipper, etc) how precise must the blank be to get good action? |
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Posts: 626
Location: ashtabula ohio | might wanna try toyin with baits you allready got, then they will give you other ideas...moores is the best catalog ive found as far as parts and a couple cool baits, goes. might as well get a jannsnetcraft.com catalog also. |
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Posts: 20221
Location: oswego, il | Lobi, is that a bait you got on ebay? looks just like one a guy sells there. Very nice bait, great paint job. |
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Posts: 1137
Location: Holly, MI | ToddM, yes eBay, and thanks. Is it Hawaii-somthing. I bought one finished and 2 blanks from him complete with lips, stainless eyes, hooks, those stick on eyes, etc all for $15 plus ship.
Muskyfisherman, I would think graphics stuck on the side of a lure would work out just fine. I'll bet you will be coming up with some very realistic looking stuff instead of my Impressionism (or whatever). I would suggest covering the paper decals with "Color Preserver" before dipping in epoxy. CP is used to coat thread wraps in rod building before adding the epoxy. The uncoated thread will turn kinda clear from the epoxy without it. After cutting out your paper to shape then coat both sides with the CP before sticking it to the lure then epoxy over it. I think epoxy is very waterproof and will protect just fine. |
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Posts: 189
Location: Hoboken, NJ / North Webster, IN | Thanks lobi. Do you, or anyone else, have any epoxy that has worked better than others? I don't have a drying rack, but I'm sure I could rig something. I'll definitely order the catalogs, but I guess what I'm looking for is any "inside" or "figured out" tips as far as brands of paint, epoxy, etc that have worked best for you....so I can maybe save myself a little trial and error at the beginning..
You guys have me psyched to get started.
thanks |
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| Envirotex works pretty good, but thats the only one i have tried. It gets kind of sloppy if your not carefull but it usually produces a nice even bubble free coat. I think some people use other stuff that may be even better, so I would look around for a bit to make sure your getting what you want. Good luck with the baits. |
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Posts: 393
Location: Kawarthas, Ontario | I use Envirotex Lite (still have a bunch), but you could also use Devcon or Flexcoat - visit tackleunderground and ask - you'll get the help you need.
If you have an airbrush, Createx is a popular brand of paints. |
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Posts: 1137
Location: Holly, MI | Sorry, I forgot to mention "laser" printer, not ink jet. Ink will run. You can home make a turning device with any low rpm motor like a microwave turntable or rotissorie motor. Dont use a clock motor heh heh. I put an open screw eye in a piece of dowel in the chuck of my rod drying motor to hook to one end of the lure. The other end gets a snap swivle to the lure then a rubberband off that to a nail in a block of wood. Dipping the lures will be bubble and run free but you have to mix up large batches of epoxy. If you have a container that is tall and narrow it will use less. Or you can also pour the epoxy over the lure and let it run off while it hangs by the front eye. You will have a drip at the back to cut off these two ways but it is "smooth" Regular old epoxy from the hardware store works just fine just be sure it is Clear. Get at least 2 hr drying so it has plenty of time to flow out. I have used automotive paints, enamel for model cars, and acrylic from the craft store. Paint doesn't seem to matter as it is being covered up. I have even sprayed some with clear laquer from a can for a finish coat but it is not very durable. The hardest thing to do in the winter is find a place to water test the prototypes. The bathtub just isn't long enough. Building your own custom fishing rod is not too hard to do either. Get a book and the meterials and go for it. I'm starting my fourth rod, a long light wt steelhead rig. They get better looking quickly as you go from the first to the second. Catch a fish on a rod And lure you made yourself and try not to brag!
Have fun! |
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