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Posts: 256
| Hello everyone,
Curious to know your thoughts regarding how to use the extra blank length that custom builders can provide.
What would be the best way to use the extra blank length in order to gain casting distance when fishing BIG rubber?
A longer rear grip allows to input more power in a cast while a longer rod tip would allow for a faster accelerating lure, thus resulting in more distance.
Assuming that the blank is 9 feet long and it is stretched to 10 feet, how much of that length would you add to both the rear grip and rod tip in order to maximise casting distance? |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
When I build a rod here and there, I build the rear handle section to be at or just a little longer than the measured length from the elbow to the base of the fingers of an open hand. For me, this is roughly 15 inches. The rest goes together from there, which makes for a longer rod length from the reel seat.
Some 9 foot rods really act like 8 footers because the extra length is in the handle section...not the tip.
In my builds, the longer the rod, the heavier the tip will feel if I use the method above though, so sometimes doing a little back-weighting can help balance the rod a bit, which makes it easier to manipulate the tip.
Steve |
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Posts: 353
Location: Western U.P. | For the 10' Musky rods I've built, I keep the rear grip length to around 19"-20" unless the customer specifies something else. Ideally, you should try to balance the rod with the rear grip length, but on a 10' rod, the handle would be unrealistically too long if you did that, so they tend to be a little tip heavy. You can add weight to the butt to help offset the tip heaviness, but don't add too much, or you'll have a rod that is not going to be used much because of its weight. The reel will help to offset the tip weight, so keep that in mind (i.e. test fit) before adding weight to a rod. PM me if you have any other questions, and will help if I can. |
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