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Posts: 79
| Yesterday I went through the motions of replacing my bunks & carpet. The surprise came when I removed the first bunk and saw that the gel coat underneath the bunk was blistered and cracking. I immediately took off the other 3 bunks and found the same situation under each one. I have done some research about gel coat blistering and its implications, but I was looking to speak with someone who has experience. I live in the south metro of MN and was hoping there was someone local who performed this type of repair. Any suggestions?
Also, if anyone else has had this happen and could share their experience I would appreciate it.
#Fishingseasoninperil
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Posts: 32885
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Sand them down and re-gelcoat. How large an area? |
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Posts: 79
| They cover the exact area of all 4 bunks. Its a total of 17 SF. I found online that if the blister is popped and it smells like vinegar, the polyester resin and gel coat are producing an acid that could be breaking down the integrity of the hull. I was freaking out and removed all the blistering gel coat with a 1" chisel. In hind site, that probably wasn't a good idea, but I had to to something that appeared productive. |
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Posts: 32885
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Sand down the area to the glass. Befoe re-gelcoating, clean area completely with acetone. If function and not perfect cosmetics is OK, buy as close a matching gelcoat as you can (it's just colored resin) tape off the area, and apply new gelcoat with a fine, good quality brush using several pots and thinner layers wet sanding a bit between. Once you have it built up past the original surrounding thickness, wet sand until acceptable to you. Use polishing compound and a buffing wheel to acquire a glossy finish and seal with a good carnuba wax.
Or, prepare as above to save $ and find a body shop that does fiberglass repair to re-spray and buff |
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Posts: 267
| Howdy,
You may also want to research replacing your bunks with non-carpeted bunks as that seems to be a popular option for others in your situation. While the jury is still out on the product, Gatorbacks seems to get a lot of traction on the Bass Boat boards. Not an endorsement, just a recommendation.
I would also call the manufacture to see what they recommend or are willing to do as sometimes, even if the boat is out of warranty, that can help.
Take care,
Ruddiger |
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Posts: 79
| After seeing what the carpet on the bunks is causing, I will not be putting carpet back on. For temporary purposes, I put some rubber flooring that is used in locker rooms on the bunks. That material doesn't hold any water and isn't slick when wet. I have yet to try it out, but I am leaning in that direction.
Steve, have you experienced blistering with your rig? I only ask because the replies make it appear so.
Thanks,
Ryan |
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Posts: 2753
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | The bunk carpets are the culprit! They hold sand, etc, even small pieces of gravel. The pressure of contact and bouncing as you drive causes mirco chips or larger that allow water ingress from the wet bunks,,I got rid of my carpeted bunks. Now Esox Maniac's trailer is sporting new bunks painted with slip plate.. even then its hard to keep dirt & sand off the bunks, wipe down with old towel before reloading the boat..
SWORRALL's advice is spot on, working with gell underneath the boat is messy, but can be done. Given the large area, I would start off with a large squeegee, versus brush. You will also need painter's coveralls, a good filter face mask (gell & glass dust is nasty stuff), disposable gloves, eye protection, etc. Start by feathering the edges of the area's you chiseled off. But most importantly let the new exposed area dryout so all water is evaporated, I would wait a couple of weeks.
Read up on gell versus hardner mix's and working time, multiple pots is a good idea..Select a working time mix ratio, have a timer, mix thouroughly, and start timer, but don't try to use any that is starting to really setup (stop when timer goes off) you may waste some, but you will get an idea of how much to mix for next batch, adjust ratio's accordingly. Don't go over any that haven't cured properly between coats..curing time varies with mix ratio's too. Power sander & buffer are great to save time..just use right grits and don't work to fast, especially with sander on edges - final sanding should always be done by hand, I would also lightly hand wet sand edges out by 2-4 inches to allow for final feathering the repair so its not visible, Just go around this edge with final very thin coat of gell once everything in the repair area is looking good. This is where you might want a brush, very high quality, you don't want brush bristle's in the gell coat.
I would agree with Steve, maybe talk to a local pro to have final gell coat sprayed at your home, all he needs is a portable compressor and his spray gun, tools... try local body shops or semi repair shops, lots of semi truck parts are glass to save on weight.
Matching the color may be your biggest challenge..I would contact the manufacturer to obtain gell to match your boat..
http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/product_catalog/laminatingtools/lam...
Good luck!
Al |
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Posts: 32885
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Nope, never had any blistering on any of the boats I have owned. Been around the industry long enough to know the whys and how to fix. |
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Posts: 410
Location: With my son on the water | Wicks aircraft supply is a good source too and can probably give you some tips too.
Good luck
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/index.html |
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Posts: 79
| Anyone ever use Hassis Paintworks out of Stillwater for fiberglass repair? By the looks of the website and the couple of phone calls I have had with them, it appears they are the real deal. |
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Posts: 410
Location: With my son on the water | Every time I have had to replace the bunks on my trailers I have taken the boat off and put it in the water, do the work on the trailer and then put the boat back on.
So the MILLION dollar question? If a guy doesn't have any kind of lift how do you remove a bunk so you can examine the underside of the boat that sits on the bunk? Or to even put a coat of wax on that area?
My rig has 4 bunks so even if I removed one at time would work, but how could you do it? |
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