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Posts: 3242
Location: Racine, Wi | I'm thinking of using contact cement for putting my carpet on the new deck. I've read good things about it, but know once it's down, it's down.
My question is, what's the best way to apply so get it on right the first time? Any tips? |
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Posts: 32954
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | A soft paint brush cheap set, go fast. |
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Posts: 410
Location: With my son on the water | Another tip is after you apply the cement, lay multiple wooden strips (that don't have adhesive on them) on top of the cement. You then lay your carpet on top of the wooden strips. The strips provide a space and don't allow the carpet to make contact with the cement. Then work from the edge and press the carpet into place. Work toward a strip and eventually you will have to pull the strip out and then work toward the next one. You may want to do a practice run without the cement first to get the hang of it.
But the contact cement works well.
Good luck and have a good day. |
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Posts: 3242
Location: Racine, Wi | Awesome! Thanks for the tips!!
I have to go over it with a roller after right? |
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Posts: 410
Location: With my son on the water | Yes a roller would work well. If by chance you get an air bubble take a syringe and take the plunger out. Then stick the needle in the air bubble and work the air out. When you are all done if you find you miss a spot, you can also take the syringe and draw some contact cement into it and inject it into the spot that you missed. If you do this you probably want to put a weight on it for a few days as the contact cement will not dry very fast.
You can get a syringe anywhere animal vet supplies are sold, get one with a larger needle.
Good luck  |
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Posts: 437
| ... Wrong post ...
Edited by Captain 5/21/2015 8:11 AM
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Posts: 73
Location: Cedarburg, WI | I used outdoor carpeting adhesive with a notched plastic trowel and it worked great for me. It was pretty cheap at Fleet Farm, and was very forgiving if I needed to move things around to get everything just-right. Contact cement requires perfect placement. The stuff I used did have an issue with fumes (it says to use with good ventilation, and that was a must)...a lot of contact cements require the same ventilation unless you get the non-flammable versions (more $). Maybe try a small can of whatever you plan on going with and try it on a piece of scrap to see if there's an issue with the materials before you commit? |
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Posts: 700
Location: Livin on a Prayer. | I don't want to come off as a know it all...but I installed carpet for 40 years.
And I recently re-habbed my 96 Lund ProV 1890 including carpet replacement.
I felt good when my top-notch marine guy asked if I did boat carpet jobs on the side.
I would use waterproof carpet adhesive on the large flat areas as mentioned, and contact cement with a brush, on both surfaces, for the hatches, steps, and small areas. Contact adhesive is immediate. It sticks and offers no adjustment.
Prep flat areas with razor scaping and a vacuum...get it clean for good adhesion.
Any questions, PM me and I'll do my best to help. Good luck.
Edited by Mark Hoerich 5/21/2015 7:39 PM
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Posts: 383
| If you carpet your lids (livewell, rod storage, etc.) and are wrapping the carpet over the edges, grab a TON of clothes pins and use them to hold the carpet down tight while it's drying. I've done this on multiple boats and it works great. |
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