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Message Subject: Impeller, when to replace? | |||
Clammer |
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Posts: 668 Location: Wisconsin | Bought a new to me Johnson this year, she runs great and has a nice stream from the impeller. Is there a rule of thumb as to when an impeller should be replaced, or is it good as long as a nice steady stream is attained. | ||
muskiehunter2 |
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Posts: 292 | they dont cost much for the kit,if its new to you id replace it .did mine on a yamaha and took me about an hour.thats the stuff that always go's on a trip.i've heard 3 years but im not sure on that .i think its based off of hours run time.if you need help ,id help if were close. chris | ||
Clammer |
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Posts: 668 Location: Wisconsin | Yes kinda thinking I maybe should just to be safe. I haven't done one before, but it doesn't sound to involved. | ||
muskiehunter2 |
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Posts: 292 | it's not bad at all. | ||
Clammer |
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Posts: 668 Location: Wisconsin | Thanks Hunter, I think I will give it a go! Better now than in season when I have a failure I guess! | ||
achotrod |
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Posts: 1283 | Easy to do and I think every 300hrs is the recommendation | ||
Pointerpride102 |
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Posts: 16632 Location: The desert | If I can do it, you can do it! They are pretty simple, and it's even easier if you've got someone to help you. Replaced mine in my Merc in about 30 mins. It now has a stream old men dream about! | ||
tcbetka |
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Location: Green Bay, WI | YouTube is your friend... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-tiUh8LoFc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WZMArnU48c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUJP93UpCyA | ||
Clammer |
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Posts: 668 Location: Wisconsin | Seems the only thing that varies is the gear shift linkage. Thanks for the links. I have a 94 Johnson tiller 60, have not found a similar motor on video. Anyone know what is needed to do the linkage on that engine? | ||
sjb42 |
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Posts: 84 | Ive heard they last longer if you mainly run in clearer water ,like lake Michigan but don't last as long if you run in dirty water or shallow water like in rivers,I would replace it then its new and you know how long its been in there. | ||
tcbetka |
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Location: Green Bay, WI | Clammer - 11/15/2014 8:55 PM Seems the only thing that varies is the gear shift linkage. Thanks for the links. I have a 94 Johnson tiller 60, have not found a similar motor on video. Anyone know what is needed to do the linkage on that engine? Well it looks to me that for about $8, you can download a PDF of the service manual for that engine from here: https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/155134262-1990-2001-johnson-... You might also search some of the online outboard motor (or boating) forums for some information on what's needed to do it. Personally, I would buy the service manual anyway--just to have it. An $8 investment might save you hundreds of dollars down the road. Edited by tcbetka 11/17/2014 11:00 AM | ||
Clammer |
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Posts: 668 Location: Wisconsin | Thanks To all, appreciate the input! Tom, sounds like a good investment. I will ck that out. | ||
VMS |
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Posts: 3480 Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Clammer - 11/15/2014 8:55 PM Seems the only thing that varies is the gear shift linkage. Thanks for the links. I have a 94 Johnson tiller 60, have not found a similar motor on video. Anyone know what is needed to do the linkage on that engine? Hiya, The linkage can be gotten to from the front of the engine. It will require moving the front air silencer, then loosen some of the items up on the right hand side of the motor as you are facing it from the front. The linkage will be down in and under, and easy enough to access to unscrew and reinstall. This is the one drawback that I have found with OMC/BRP 2 strokes in midrange size. The shift linkage is a vertical movement rather than a rotational movement like mercury or Yamaha models, that just have to have a splined shaft line up. It is not bad, but it can be a tad bit of a pain, but once you get access to that bolt, things should move smoothly. If you are in the twin cities metro, I'd give you a hand on it this spring when it is time to pull the boat out again.. Steve | ||
V18 |
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Posts: 269 Location: Oregon, WI | Do you have to drain the lower unit lube before changing the impeller? | ||
Clammer |
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Posts: 668 Location: Wisconsin | Steve, I would love to take you up on the offer to help, but I am a long way from the twin cities. Thank you for the description, I should (I hope) be able to figure it out with what you provided. As always, you are the best! Thanks ! | ||
MACK |
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Posts: 1080 | More food for thought that I've been told in regards to the question of "when" to replace an impeller: I've been told that total number of hours on a current impeller is one factor as to when to replace it, however, on the flip-side...so is lack of use. Meaning...a motor that has maybe sat for long periods of time without being used COULD allow the impeller to dry out and allow the impeller fins to harden and remain in the "curled" position vs. them staying soft and pliable and remaining in the position they need to be in to allow for adequate flow of water. Rule-of-thumb...it's a new-to-you motor...just replace it as the others have said. Can't go wrong. Great peace of mind to know when it was last done and it can never hurt to learn this type of maintenance on your own motor vs hunting down a marina during a vacation to rely on them to get your boat squeezed in with their current work load...and back to you...to try and salvage what's remaining of your trip. | ||
VMS |
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Posts: 3480 Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya, Being an item that is not too invasive to replace, and the fact that impellers are made of rubber, every 3 to 5 years is a good preventative maintenance plan. Not too long ago I replaced the original impeller in my fathers 1973 Johnson 20 hp.. Still was working fine before, but did it anyway. Losing an impeller due to dry rot, worn etc, would not be good if you are on a trip, and could potentially put you in harms way in a blow with no alternative means of propulsion. Play safe and replace it every few years. Steve | ||
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