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Posts: 613
Location: Michigan | Just wondering how hard it is to switch from a 12v trolling motor to a 24v? Is it something I can do or should I just bring it to a shop? If I bring it into a shop, should it be a pretty quick process and not too expensive? |
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Posts: 4269
Location: Ashland WI | I don't think it is to big of a deal. I assume you would get a wiring diagram with the new 24v motor. Should be pretty simple to follow. |
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Location: Green Bay, WI | Assuming you have a 24-volt trolling motor, it's simple. Just add another 12-volt battery in series with the first. If your trolling motor circuit is isolated so that you're not running electronics (which are generally 12-volt, but may be 24-volt tolerant) on the same system, then it's very straightforward. In terms of current, any wire large enough for the load of a 12-volt trolling motor will handle a 24-volt motor, as the current is reduced in half (Ohm's Law). So the only real things then to worry about are the motor, and another battery connected in series with the first.
There are a BUNCH of online marine references on 12- vs 24-volt systems. Google around a bit and you'll see what I mean. |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
Assuming your motor is currently running a 12 volt system, the conversion will be very quick. The only thing involved is getting another battery tray, and a jumper wire from one battery to the other. The wiring on the boat itself will not need to be changed, nor will the plug you currently use.
To set up a 24 volt system on a 12 volt set-up, you hook a jumper wire from the Negative of battery 1 to the positive of battery 2. The, the leads for the trolling motor are hooked to the unused posts on the two batteries: Positive on battery 1 and negative on battery 2.
From there, you are all set.
Steve |
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Posts: 537
Location: Gilberts IL/Rhinelander WI | He would be all set, only if the wire originally run in the boat was the correct gauge to handle a 24v system. If it was a 12v system it's probably not. 6ga is what you need and is instructed by minn kota to uphold warranty. |
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Location: Green Bay, WI | 5th lake Brad - 11/10/2014 5:23 PM
He would be all set, only if the wire originally run in the boat was the correct gauge to handle a 24v system. If it was a 12v system it's probably not. 6ga is what you need and is instructed by minn kota to uphold warranty.
I would bet he'd be just fine, as the current in a 24-volt system may well be lower than that in a 12-volt system.
That being said, a guy should by all means check the specs on the 24-volt trolling motor, simply to see how much current it draws. If the 24-volt motor draws more current, then you're right that he would need to verify that the existing wire is large enough to safely carry that load. Reviewing the manuals for each trolling motor should show these ratings pretty quickly.
EDIT: I found a thread on TheHullTruth's forum, showing a "rule-of-thumb" for how much current the various trolling motors should draw:
http://www.thehulltruth.com/carolinas/485565-trolling-motor-minn-ko...
There isn't as much difference as I initially expected: 1.2 amps per pound of thrust for 12-volt motor, versus 0.9 amps per pound for 24-volt. So if this is accurate, then you may indeed need heavier wire, depending upon the rating of the motor you're replacing, and that of the new one. So these need to be checked, as I (and Brad) have noted above.
Edited by tcbetka 11/10/2014 8:34 PM
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Posts: 613
Location: Michigan | Awesome, thanks for all the help! I am currently running a 55lb, 12v MinnKota Powerdrive and am just looking to upgrade to the 70lb, 24v model. I already have a 'back-up' battery right next to my trolling motor battery so sounds like I just need a jumper wire to connect the two. Even if I do bring it into the shop, it sounds like it shouldn't be expensive at all unless I need heavier wire.
Edited by jasonvkop 11/11/2014 10:47 AM
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Location: Green Bay, WI | I would look at the wire you have for the 12-volt unit. If you do that math on both, using the rule-of-thumb numbers from that link I posted, they seem to be pretty close in terms of current draw.
55 lbs * 1.2 amp/lb = 66 amps
74 lbs * 0.9 amp/lb = 66.6 amps
So you might in fact be OK with your existing wiring. You just need to verify what gauge it is. But even if you'd have to replace all the wiring, it really shouldn't be all that expensive. I mean, compared to the price of the new motor and another battery (you may even want to install two new ones so they're the same age...), what's another $50 or so for new wiring? Unless the batteries are at the far end of the boat, you shouldn't need all that much wire--so it may not even be $50. |
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Posts: 613
Location: Michigan | Thanks for all the help! This will really help if I decide to upgrade to the 24v, but will probably need to save some more money first. Here are a couple pictures of what I already have, so the wiring and set-up shouldn't be too difficult.
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 DSC00014.JPG (98KB - 205 downloads)
DSC00015.JPG (126KB - 211 downloads)
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Location: Green Bay, WI | That wire looks like #10, or #8 at most. There should be some sort of marking on it, as I mentioned before. It would be useful to know how how big it is (in terms of wire gauge). If both of those batteries are only for your trolling motor circuit, than that compartment will work out well. I would get some battery boxes, or at least a couple of battery trays though. You can anchor them to the floor of the compartment, and then secure the batteries in place using the straps for the boxes/trays.
That's a pretty short run for your wiring though, so I don't think the project will be too expensive for you--even if you have to replace all the wiring. Don't skimp on wire quality...get the marine grade wiring of the proper size, based upon the trolling motor manufacturer's recommendations. Other than that, this doesn't appear to be a complicated project at all. You just have to do your research and know what not to do. |
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Posts: 106
| Replace the wire. You want 6 gage tinned wire. It looks like you need less than 10', so it should cost about $30.
I buy from this place. http://www.genuinedealz.com/6-awg-custom-battery-cables
You also need a 60 amp circuit breaker. |
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Location: Green Bay, WI |
^^^ This is very good advice. I agree. Just put in new wire--for the amount it will cost you, you'll hardly notice the pain...especially once you have to buy the new trolling motor. That way your system will be entirely new, and completely safe. And you won't have to chase down bugaboos next year, when you'd rather be fishing.
EDIT: And don't forget to install a couple of battery trays, to secure the batteries in place. Or even battery boxes (if you have the vertical room in that compartment), so you can cover the terminals for safety.
Edited by tcbetka 11/11/2014 8:49 PM
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Posts: 2097
| I like to have matching batteries. Those two batteries look different? |
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Location: Green Bay, WI | Agreed CRL. I would install two identical batteries so that they are the same age (i.e; internal resistance, as much as anything) when I completed the project, if it were me. |
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Posts: 668
Location: Wisconsin | Go for it! It is an easy upgrade and you will love the power and how much longer your batteries last!
Good thoughts on new wire, and if you have the $$, matching batteries is the way to go. |
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Location: varies | batteries look the same to me but 180 from each other.? |
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Posts: 613
Location: Michigan | Thanks for all the continuing advice! This would still be a year or so away probably, but good to get this much information now. If I go through with it, I would probably get two new batteries just to be safe too. It'll will also be nice knowing exactly when the batteries were bought for future maintenance, repairs, etc. |
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