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Posts: 44
| I could use a little input in rigging my new boat. It is a Tuffy Esox Magnum tiller. Last night we were going to put the bow mount trolling motor on and discovered you can't fit you hand in the opening of the bow panel. I wanted to bolt the trolling motors on with bolts and the lock tight nuts. It looks like I'm going to be forced to use the rubber holders that come with Motorguide trolling motors. Has anyone used these and if so, do they hold?
If you have this boat, where did you install your rear graph? I want to put mine between the livewell and the rear storage box. I can't figure out how to get the wires from the inside of the storage box up into the instrument panel. Has anyone ever done this that can tell me how?
Thanks |
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Posts: 376
Location: Cudahy, Wisconsin | I have a Mag also.I put a minnkota maxuum on the front.The way I did it was to just get somebody with small arms and bolt it on.I put my locator on the rear fiberglass instrument pannel.I hope this helps. |
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Posts: 29
| I have used the Motor Guide type rubber inserts before. In my application (bow mount on older Ranger) they worked very well. I would recomend using some Never Sieze, (available at auto parts stores) on the bolts in case removal is necessary. I had the motor off and on the boat a couple of times with no problem.
When running wires for the electronics it may be necessary to drill holes and run wires through bulk heads etc. Rig Rite makes a nifty little hole cover to hide these holes for a neat insatalation. Enjoy the new Tuffy! Good Luck. |
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Posts: 105
| On the last Magnum that I helped rig, we put the graph in the same place and If I remember right we just came out of the back of the compartment with the wires and laid them neatly along the compartment edges using rigging straps.
The bow mount can be bolted on. Carefully enlarge the hole just enough to squeeze your arm in there. Roll up your shirt sleeve and squeeze. You might want to have some vasileen or dishsoap handy if you get stuck. On one we even used a fine jigsaw blade first, then a fine file. You don't want to chip the gell coat. To reach the back nuts, use a long box end wrench and put one layer ove masking tape over it to hold the nt in the wrench. The bolt will peirce the masking tape and you can "work" the wrench off. To make sure you have no problems later, either use blue titeloc or stainles nylock nuts.
Also, for any cutting or drilling on any boat that is glass, get a roll of 2" tape and tape the area for both setup and drilling and cutting. You won't scare the surface and your drill bit won't wander. A little silicone around the edges of the holes will help any small gell coat chips or cracks you can't see from "running".
I do the same on aluminum also. paint is even worse for pealing back after drilling or cutting and the tape keeps things from sliding around when you are trying to position somthing like a trolling motor and gives you a surface to pencil mark on.
Just be sure to take the tape off befor final assembly. |
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Posts: 5874
| Another tip for fiberglass. Chamfer the gelcoat around any hole you drill to relieve it from stress cracks. You can do it with a larger drill bit, but I found that a chamfer bit works best. |
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Posts: 44
| Thanks for the help! |
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