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Posts: 87
| Hey everyone,
I'm looking to do some trolling this fall, more specifically on the Bay of Green Bay. I am new to trolling for muskies as I am mainly a caster, but I have trolled for walleye quite a bit. I have a couple of questions I was hoping people could answer.
My set up I am planning on using is Shimano TDR 8' heavy with Shimano tekotas. As well as 100lb power pro for line. This leads into my first question: Mono or braid for trolling? I was planning on trolling with planer boards in open water only.
What should I do when a fish takes a bait? With walleye we never set the hook, just reel until the fish is up to the boat.
Can anyone recommend some good crankbaits for fall trolling? I don't really cast crankbaits that much for muskie, so I am not too familiar with popular ones for trolling.
Thanks in advance!
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Posts: 6
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan | There was just a 2 page discussion on this topic. |
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Posts: 114
| If you already own the TDRs, you should be all set with that setup. The one suggestion I was going to make would be to get the 8' M/H instead of H, as the tip gives a little more indication that your lure is still running clean.
Green Bay, along with many of the large fisheries, has it's own techniques that are specific to those waters. I would do some research and see what most of the seasoned fisherman there use in terms of braid vs. mono. But I can tell you this.....it's never bad to have a few of each. I run my planer rods all on mono, while my boat rods are braid. It's a personal preference really, but if that fishery is clearer water mono does have it's advantages. In either case, using longer 6' leaders is also a way to ensure your being as stealthy as possible.
What to do when a fish hits. First, be sure that your drags are set to your liking. I set my mono rods a little lighter and also take into consideration the type of lure. Lures like Ziggies or Wileys that do not have split rings can sometimes provide the fish with something to leverage against and get free. I like my drags tight enough to set the hook on the fish, but not so tight that they wont give way to some serious pressure of a fish. After a strike, we will typically clear the boat rods to ensure there are no tangles, leaving the rest of the planers out. Slow down a little, and reel the fish in. Pretty simple! Oh yeah, don't set the hook. The speed/drag/rod should do that for you on the strike.
Baits. Possibilities are endless. Some minnow baits I know that work there are shallow raiders, grandmas, ziggies, etc. Again, a visit to a local tackle shop with some knowledgeable staff should get you pointed in the right direction in terms of that specific fisheries lure-of-choice. The same for the trolling speed. |
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Posts: 1036
| I think if you hit up Smokeys on the Bay, they could get you going in the right direction.... |
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Posts: 87
| FIP - 8/25/2014 1:09 PM
There was just a 2 page discussion on this topic.
Although it says trolling, it is not the same topic at all. The other thread is about some guys problems with trolling in rivers in current and such. My topic is is on open water trolling, and the fact that I am new to it. But thanks for the advice anyway. |
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Posts: 87
| MuskieJim - 8/25/2014 1:23 PM
If you already own the TDRs, you should be all set with that setup. The one suggestion I was going to make would be to get the 8' M/H instead of H, as the tip gives a little more indication that your lure is still running clean.
Green Bay, along with many of the large fisheries, has it's own techniques that are specific to those waters. I would do some research and see what most of the seasoned fisherman there use in terms of braid vs. mono. But I can tell you this.....it's never bad to have a few of each. I run my planer rods all on mono, while my boat rods are braid. It's a personal preference really, but if that fishery is clearer water mono does have it's advantages. In either case, using longer 6' leaders is also a way to ensure your being as stealthy as possible.
What to do when a fish hits. First, be sure that your drags are set to your liking. I set my mono rods a little lighter and also take into consideration the type of lure. Lures like Ziggies or Wileys that do not have split rings can sometimes provide the fish with something to leverage against and get free. I like my drags tight enough to set the hook on the fish, but not so tight that they wont give way to some serious pressure of a fish. After a strike, we will typically clear the boat rods to ensure there are no tangles, leaving the rest of the planers out. Slow down a little, and reel the fish in. Pretty simple! Oh yeah, don't set the hook. The speed/drag/rod should do that for you on the strike.
Baits. Possibilities are endless. Some minnow baits I know that work there are shallow raiders, grandmas, ziggies, etc. Again, a visit to a local tackle shop with some knowledgeable staff should get you pointed in the right direction in terms of that specific fisheries lure-of-choice. The same for the trolling speed.
Thanks for the reply, so far you're the only person I've seen who recommends the MH TDRs. I might consider them instead. |
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Posts: 114
| I have both, if that's any consolation. If you are running the baits directly off the rod, the H is fine. If you are using planer boards, the H can be a little too much, as the tip doesn't show the lure bouncing nearly as well. I use the 9'6" MH TDRs for my long boat rods that go out to each side at 90 degrees.
Something that will definitely help you is to watch videos on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=green+bay+muski... |
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Posts: 87
| MuskieJim - 8/26/2014 10:03 AM
I have both, if that's any consolation. If you are running the baits directly off the rod, the H is fine. If you are using planer boards, the H can be a little too much, as the tip doesn't show the lure bouncing nearly as well. I use the 9'6" MH TDRs for my long boat rods that go out to each side at 90 degrees.
Something that will definitely help you is to watch videos on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=green+bay+muskie+trolli...
I have been watching a quite a few videos, and found a few helpful ones. Unfortunately there's not too many on Green Bay, but I have some other sources. Most of the Green Bay vids are of bret Alexander just reeling in fish. At least I get to see the bait! Edited by ImpactFishing 8/26/2014 11:58 AM
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Posts: 114
| ImpactFishing - 8/26/2014 12:57 PM At least I get to see the bait!
That's my point! lol |
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Posts: 20211
Location: oswego, il | Your rods and reels will be fine. braid is fine too I only use 80lb braid now. If your going to use planer boards get the locking clip. I use church walleye and tx44 boards, I like them best and put the church locking clips on them. I recently trolled with a buddy who had offshore boards and bought their brand of locking clips before the trip was up because I was sick of the stock clips.
I set the drag so that line does not come out while trolling. Do not slow down at all untill the rod is in the persons hand. Then slow down. Have a plan know what's rods need to be cleared and in which order based on what rod goes off this should be automatic. No fire drill. |
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Posts: 87
| ToddM - 8/26/2014 9:23 PM
Your rods and reels will be fine. braid is fine too I only use 80lb braid now. If your going to use planer boards get the locking clip. I use church walleye and tx44 boards, I like them best and put the church locking clips on them. I recently trolled with a buddy who had offshore boards and bought their brand of locking clips before the trip was up because I was sick of the stock clips.
I set the drag so that line does not come out while trolling. Do not slow down at all untill the rod is in the persons hand. Then slow down. Have a plan know what's rods need to be cleared and in which order based on what rod goes off this should be automatic. No fire drill.
You mention your drag is set so that the line does not come out while trolling, does that mean when a fish takes it he will pull drag? I read that with braid you want a little less drag due to the no stretch of the line. |
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Posts: 192
Location: Quebec, Canada | ImpactFishing - 8/27/2014 12:21 AM
ToddM - 8/26/2014 9:23 PM
Your rods and reels will be fine. braid is fine too I only use 80lb braid now. If your going to use planer boards get the locking clip. I use church walleye and tx44 boards, I like them best and put the church locking clips on them. I recently trolled with a buddy who had offshore boards and bought their brand of locking clips before the trip was up because I was sick of the stock clips.
I set the drag so that line does not come out while trolling. Do not slow down at all untill the rod is in the persons hand. Then slow down. Have a plan know what's rods need to be cleared and in which order based on what rod goes off this should be automatic. No fire drill.
You mention your drag is set so that the line does not come out while trolling, does that mean when a fish takes it he will pull drag? I read that with braid you want a little less drag due to the no stretch of the line.
I will let Todd give us own reply on the matter, but personally, I've learned from past experiences that it's better, and I think this is what he meant, to have your drag set just a notch before it could release line on it's own while trolling (also taking in consideration the extra pull created in your S turns).
That would then mean that yes, the fish would easily pull out drag when striking. Two benefits would come out of this;
First, when the fish will strike, it will have the lure pretty much in the top of it's mouth, where there are mostly teeth... very hard to hook in. Having a slacker drag will allow the fish to reposition the bait by the time that you set the hook in the lips of the fish.
Additionally, there will be less chance with a slacker trolling drag that the fish will swim upward right away for a surface jump that would dramatically increase the chance of spitting the bait out of it's mouth. I used to be trolling with a tight drag and I've lost something like 5 fishes in a row before changing to slacker trolling drag... never really had a problem since.
Edited by Drakl 8/27/2014 10:04 AM
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Posts: 87
| Drakl - 8/27/2014 9:45 AM
ImpactFishing - 8/27/2014 12:21 AM
ToddM - 8/26/2014 9:23 PM
Your rods and reels will be fine. braid is fine too I only use 80lb braid now. If your going to use planer boards get the locking clip. I use church walleye and tx44 boards, I like them best and put the church locking clips on them. I recently trolled with a buddy who had offshore boards and bought their brand of locking clips before the trip was up because I was sick of the stock clips.
I set the drag so that line does not come out while trolling. Do not slow down at all untill the rod is in the persons hand. Then slow down. Have a plan know what's rods need to be cleared and in which order based on what rod goes off this should be automatic. No fire drill.
You mention your drag is set so that the line does not come out while trolling, does that mean when a fish takes it he will pull drag? I read that with braid you want a little less drag due to the no stretch of the line.
I will let Todd give us own reply on the matter, but personally, I've learned from past experiences that it's better, and I think this is what he meant, to have your drag set just a notch before it could release line on it's own while trolling (also taking in consideration the extra pull created in your S turns ).
That would then mean that yes, the fish would easily pull out drag when striking. Two benefits would come out of this;
First, when the fish will strike, it will have the lure pretty much in the top of it's mouth, where there are mostly teeth... very hard to hook in. Having a slacker drag will allow the fish to reposition the bait by the time that you set the hook in the lips of the fish.
Additionally, there will be less chance with a slacker trolling drag that the fish will swim upward right away for a surface jump that would dramatically increase the chance of spitting the bait out of it's mouth. I used to be trolling with a tight drag and I've lost something like 5 fishes in a row before changing to slacker trolling drag... never really had a problem since.
Thanks for the tip. Sounds right to me. |
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Posts: 20211
Location: oswego, il | Yes exactly and something has to give when you trolling 3-5mph. I use 9'6" fiberglass trolling rods but you still need line to come off the reel when a fish is on. Other points. Never pump the rod when reeling in a fish trolling. Straight crank. I see it too much, never ever slack the line, not when picking up the rod, not when taking off the board, not when fighting the fish. Many times fish will swim along with the boat. A slack line head shake is a lost fish. |
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Location: minocqua, wi. | my favorite is dragging the meat in on top of the water while dragging it with the boat … |
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Posts: 566
Location: Elgin, IL | jonnysled - 8/27/2014 12:15 PM
my favorite is dragging the meat in on top of the water while dragging it with the boat …
Best advise so far here's. |
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Posts: 114
| Northwind Mark - 8/27/2014 1:25 PM
jonnysled - 8/27/2014 12:15 PM
my favorite is dragging the meat in on top of the water while dragging it with the boat …
Best advise so far here's.
This is advice???? |
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Posts: 20211
Location: oswego, il | I think he is a little jaded because when he signed up on this site the user name luv2troll was already taken.:-)
Edited by ToddM 8/27/2014 1:38 PM
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