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Posts: 742
Location: Grand Rapids MN | Ok, I decided to order some stuff to make my own smaller heavier bucktails and just wanted some thoughts and maybe open discussion to help pass this winter along faster. One question is there any down sidès to having to big of a clevis? Then just what are some of your favorite blade combo.
I'm leaning more towards .051 wire for ease of loops; but can do .062. For spinners I'm ordering from LPO some #8 Colorado, #8 French, and #8&9 Indianas. #6 clevis work alright with these?
Skirts will be a variety between silicon, marabou, and some tonsil/flash.
Thanks guys...... |
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Posts: 110
| I use the #6 clevis on everything from double tens to rabid squirrel type bucktails and they work fine on all of them. Personally, I use .051 because it's easier to work with and if they get bent up too bad, it only takes a little bit of time to cut it apart and put it together on a new wire. If you do go with the .062, be sure your beads, and bodies will work with it....alot of them won't fit the .062. Hope this helps.
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Posts: 345
Location: Poynette WI. | I use the same size clevis and they work great with .051 wire and i also use a smaller wire i think its .041 or the next normal size down from .o51 with as small as #6 colorado blades and all the others you mentioned, sometimes i'll add a small metal bead under and on top of the clevis or have to bend the clevis in or out to help tweek it a little. I havent had any problems with the "easy/quick spin" clevises. I'm assuming you ordered the quick/easy spin clevises. A general rule to follow usually is the less surface space of the clevis touching the wire, the less friction and the easier it will spin. all the blades mentioned usually spin well alone, it's when you start doubling up blades when there's some tweeking involved. There are also a couple other little tricks to getting your blades to start up fast.
Edited by FISHFINDER101 3/5/2014 7:42 PM
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Posts: 1405
Location: Detroit River | I use the #6 clevis as well as .051 wire. |
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Posts: 742
Location: Grand Rapids MN | Thanks for the input guys. It just came to mind about any down sides to having a " to large" clevis since they are purchased by the 100's and I may build large bladed baits later or might make a few even smaller. Really don't need 500 different size laying around if I don't need to.
As for the blades I've actually never used the #9 Indiana's. I know they are on the Muskie Maverics and it sounds like they are a bit easier to reel in than a typical #10 Colo. I also had some Buck-a-boo's that I used for years and figured I would make a larger version with some #8's.
I haven't ordered quite yet as I am still figuring how much skirt material I will need or want. Thanks again for the tips and replies, much appreciated. Toss out some of your favorite combo's if you like or post a few pics of some creations!
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Posts: 48
|  i built a home made cowgirl last year that was a mix of Holo Copper and Holo Cranberry flash with Copper blades and that my favorite that I've done so far.
Edited by Ralidan 3/6/2014 7:43 PM
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Location: Aurora | Makes the store bought ones look like a big piece of poop, Ralidan
Top notch! |
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Posts: 48
| Ha! Thanks, Sidejack. When it comes to the detail work, my bucktails are not up to snuff... but I do like this color combination  |
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Location: Pewaukee, WI | Nice one buddy! |
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Posts: 742
Location: Grand Rapids MN | One more question.. If I go with beads for the body are the hollow ones any good or should I go with the solid? I figure the solids are better option but is it worth the added cost? Also what size bead do you tend to put under the clevis?
Thanks again. |
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Posts: 177
Location: ON | Solid beads, no doubt. It takes weight from your splitring when you hook a fish on that front hook.
It also adds a bit of weight to help with casting. Flash weighs nothing and holds no water, extra weight helps. |
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Posts: 1405
Location: Detroit River | Targa01 - 3/7/2014 4:14 PM One more question.. If I go with beads for the body are the hollow ones any good or should I go with the solid? I figure the solids are better option but is it worth the added cost? Also what size bead do you tend to put under the clevis? Thanks again. I prefer soild beads because the extra weight at the front of the lure keeps it more horizontal in the water. I see most guys use the hollow as does most of the manufactures becase it saves maybe $.50 if that. IMO you should always use a solid bead under the clevis, especially if you'll be trolling the bait. The hollow beads have a rough hole opening & that rough edge cuts into the clevis & you end up losing the blade. You won't have that problem with a solid bead. |
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Posts: 2308
Location: SE, WI. | A couple heavy weights I built for the Mrs. She has won 3, 1st place finishes in Muskie Inc tourney's on these I call Litt'l Dynamite. JD
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Posts: 47
| I use hollow beads but make up the weight difference with lure bodies barrels which are solid brass and depending on the lure size i try and match egg sinkers in 1/4 up to 3/4 oz. I always try and get the lure to balance on the last bead before the skirts which seems to help balance in the water then back dosnt hang too low on the retrieve.
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Posts: 742
Location: Grand Rapids MN | Great looking stuff guys! Since there are no builders immediately around me this gives me a chance to "bs" and bounce off ideas. So thanks for all the feedback and PM's.
Going to put my order in this week. Going to add a few of those painted lead bodies and see how they look. Looking forward to seeing how things turn out. Have a feeling I will have all 25 baits done in one night! |
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