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Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> Achieving a wobble on the fall |
Message Subject: Achieving a wobble on the fall | |||
lehighmuskies |
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Posts: 348 | I've been painting baits for a while now an am moving onto building baits. Went out bought all the tools I need. Bandsaw drills melting pots router.ect. I've been trying to weight a prototype bait that I came up with a few different ways now but for the life of me I can't get the #*^@ thing to wobble. I have a fish aquarium in my front living room so I'm constantly running out of the basement to there girlfriends getting peeed. So anyway is there something special I'm missing? Just a straight glide on the fall no wobble. Also are you guys sealing baits before you test or after? Not sure if that's why Any help is appreciated if you don't wanna post feel free to PM Thank you for any help Lehigh | ||
little one |
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Posts: 501 Location: S.Wisconsin | Put the lead closer to the centerline and you will get more wobble on the fall as its not as stable. Its a fine line tho because if the weight is to high it will just want to flip over on the pull. I seal the wood before any testing. I will gladly share with you my process of placing lead so if you want to know how I do it shoot me a pm | ||
Beaver |
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Posts: 4266 | I agree, I always put the lead just below the center line if I want a glider to wobble. If you want it to wobble on the fall, you have to leave a portion of the bottom flat so there is resistance on the fall causing it to shimmy from one side to another. The more aerodynamic the belly is, the less it will shimmy on the fall. I always router just enough off the bottom to make it blend nicely, but always leave at least one quarter inch flat on 3/4" gliders and even more when the lures are wider. If you need more specifics, PM me. Beaver | ||
bowhunter29 |
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Posts: 908 Location: South-Central PA | I got very lucky with my first designs and was able to get them both to wobble on the fall. My baits are not flat on the bottom, they are rounded just like my crankbaits. I placed the weight at the very bottom of the belly's and right in the pivot point of the lure. jeremy | ||
Targa01 |
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Posts: 742 Location: Grand Rapids MN | +1 - What Jeremy said but I was thinking of adding a flatter edge as a lot of guys like the outcome. Will see how it goes this spring. | ||
Landonfish |
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Posts: 360 | You could add a lip to the back like a manta | ||
mountainmuskies |
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Posts: 811 | Landonfish - 2/13/2013 11:37 AM You could add a lip to the back like a manta In my experience, this actually hinders the wobble on the fall. In my experience, gliders with multiple weights in multiple places have the best action but not always the best wobble on the pause, I think the shape of the belly might be the key to getting them to rock side-to-side on the pause. | ||
lehighmuskies |
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Posts: 348 | weird had a nice wobble an once i sealed the bait wobble was gone?Could be the wood im using?I know the shape is pretty crazy,I have a rounded belly but not a drop belly that goes into a straight line for about 5 inches.I gotta get me a router not liking the 3/4 inch square on the out sides of the bait.Thinking of trying maple or cedar where i dont have to pack in so much weight | ||
Beaver |
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Posts: 4266 | You'll be packing a lot of weight into Cedar. My favorite woods for gliders with the least amount of weighting problems are Maple and Mahogany. Maple being the most consistent. I have some big gliders made from CA Redwood that weigh 10 ounces, but after the cast they don't weigh anything because They are neutrally buoyant. Each lure has that perfect weight that makes it seem alive. It might feel heavy out of the water, but in the water, if weighted properly, they don't feel to weigh much or anything. | ||
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