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Posts: 321
Location: Glen Ellyn Il | I started building muskie baits for about eight month now and I have learned so much from this site that I really appreciate the basement guys and pro bait builders. I like to give something back.
When I first started building I learned how to do wire trough construction, I do not see anything wrong with it at all, very good construction but lots of work.
I always try to find another easier way to do something not necessarily better in this case. I am very confident that this is a good construction. I got the idea when I started building baits from PCV boards, I had to drill large holes and insert hard wood dowel pins for the hooks and the toe line. I use oak ½ diameter dowel pins anywhere from 1 inch to 1.5 inches long, depending on the bait shape and size works really nice.
Now you can do this with wood.
A: Drill the holes for the hooks and toe line for the size and depth of the dowel pin you are going to use
B: drill the dowel pin screw eye hole for the screw eye you are going to use in the dowel pins
C: need a piece of sheet metal around 20 gauge or thinner, to make a square metal washer for backing up the screw eye, use sheet metal cutter for this
Example if you are using ½ Diameter dowel pin cut the washer a little smaller than ½ square, needs to fit behind the dowel pin. Note pre-drill small hole in the metal before you cut the small square. The hole will be a little smaller than the screw eye because you are going to screw the screw eye in the square washer.
D: Screw the eye screw pin in to the dowel pin and in to the square metal washer, apply five minute epoxy or 30 minutes which ever you like. Insert the assembled dowel pin screw and washer in to the bait make sure that there is enough epoxy on the washer and bottom of the hole and around the dowel pin. Once the epoxy sets in that screw cannot be pulled out will be there for the life time of the bait, it is permanent.
Of course everything must be drilled on center; you have only one chance here
Thanks for all the valuable information I was able to get from this site, without you guys would have taken me a long time to build and paint baits
Gino
Any one that needs more info you can PM me
Edited by spoonpluggergino 9/3/2012 10:43 AM
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Posts: 321
Location: Glen Ellyn Il | Attaching some pictures for clarification of pin install with washers so screw cannot pull out and come out once is epoxied in the bait. Note I am showing the pin installed in one of the lead holes so you can see how it looks. That pin will go for the hooks and the tow line. In the second picture you can see the pin assembled with the screw eye and the washer. This makes a very clean install and very strong
Gino
Edited by spoonpluggergino 9/20/2012 11:55 PM
(pin with washer installed.jpg)
Attachments
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 tools.jpg (55KB - 191 downloads)
alternative.jpg (48KB - 317 downloads)
pin with washer installed.jpg (44KB - 204 downloads)
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| Cool stuff, thanks for sharing. What kind of screws are you using? Are you using a tap to put threads in the sheet metal washer/nut thing? So in summary it would be stronger than a standard wood screw because it is screwed and glued into a washer with a dowel sandwiched between? I like your system and think it would be useful when using lighter density woods or plastics due to the increased bonding surface area you get with the outer diameter of the dowel. I still think through wire is the best and worth the work when using lighter density materials though. What is the density of the pvc you are using?
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Posts: 321
Location: Glen Ellyn Il | Hey Mike
The screw eye I use is SC-94 1-7/16 O.L. from Moores. I used 20 Gauge sheet metal to make the washer, no need to tap it. I used a 5/64 inch drill to make the hole in the washer sligtly smaller than the screw eye. You can double up on the washer make sure the screw sticks out about 1/8 inch. once the epoxy sets in it will not loosen or come out I use Azek PVC deck board very strong, has some fiber mixed in, do not use trim board not strong enough for baits 8 inches and larger.
I do not know the density of the Azek but it is very consistant. The paint really sticks to it, I was fishing LOTW casting and bouncing my glide baits off the rocks paint never chipped, also caught muskie up to 45 inches and no problem with the PVC bait. I used ETEX for clear coat.
Happy to give back to the basement guys, they helped me tremendously
Thank You
Gino |
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Posts: 152
| way to make your through wire your own way and you did very good job at this . the art of lure making is alive and well. |
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Posts: 30
| Hi,
Being totally new to bait construction I want to make sure I completely understand your system. Hope I have got it. As I understand it the washer in this system is under the oak wood dowel piece and pierced by the screw eye point after it the screw eye is threaded thru the dowel. With the washer underneath the dowel in this way the system is strengthened because the washer and the dowel are set inside the epoxy applied within the lure body. So both will grab under stress to prevent hook attachment pull out by an angry pike or musky.
let me know and thanks
jim |
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI | I'm sure you've tested this but I would think that when the Oak gets wet, expanding then shrinking as it dries, the whole thing would slide right out. |
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Posts: 1202
Location: Money, PA | In my honest opinion, this and through wiring is seriously overkill. For my application anyway. I could see how one might want to through wire wood since wood breaks down over time. However, I use SS .092 screw eyes in my resin baits and have had the screw eye straighten out before it ever pulls out with over 250lbs of pull pressure while testing! The through wire lure I tested broke the wire at less pressure, so for my baits these screw eyes are stronger. Always remember that your bait, rig or anything alse is only as strong as its weakest link/point...I think your line would break before any of this stuff. |
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Posts: 496
| I thought about doing something similar if I used plastic board but I would drill a hole from side to side instead of verticle .....that way the wood cant pull cant pull out and just run screw eyes into it . With that being said , I am sticking with Maple for a while . If it aint broke,don't fix it . |
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| ShutUpNFish - "the screw eye straighten out before it ever pulls out with over 250lbs of pull pressure while testing!" How did you test this? I did a very scientific test once with the Molly Bait  , I lifted the biggest guy in the shop up with the fork lift when he was hanging from the line tie and hook hanger lol He was near 300 lbs. and there was no sign of failure. The new diver and topwater I’m making have a molded density halfway between Balsa and Cedar so through wire is necessary on those. Every bait is different and needs its own system. There are some weak designs out there, but most prudent anglers can spot them. Will just brought up a good point.
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