|
|
Posts: 1146
| ShutUpNFish - 2/28/2012 5:51 AM
Fancy! I like the idea of enclosure and adding heat...does it cut your drying time down any?? Also noticed in the newer pics, you added some sort of guard for the light...whats the reason for that?
Pretty sure he doesn't want the direct heat from the bulb on the lower wheel. With a guard over the light it keeps the ambient heat even throughout the enclosure.
Very nice set up MS. That's how you get those flawless clearcoats. |
|
| |
|
| Pretty sure he doesn't want epoxy drips to burn all night long on a hot bulb- been there 
Joe
Trueglide.blogspot.com
Trueglide.com |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1146
| C'mon Joe,
How do you get epoxy drips when using a wheel? That's the whole point.  |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1224
Location: Okoboji | speaking off, mine burnt up,,i had a real nice motor with gear drive that i could adjust the speed on. i got it from t-bone and now it is dead. i like the box frame style. i had round pieces on the shaft and they would always move a little.. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1202
Location: Money, PA | I'm looking for a better motor too....any suggestions? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 117
Location: holland | http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7fE28nxSVI
link to youtube, of my drying weel.
.
Edited by sybe.m. 2/29/2012 11:40 PM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 432
Location: mpls | I must be doing something wrong then . Heck, I get epoxy drips on my shoes, pants, unmentionables- you name it! 
Joe |
|
| |
|
Posts: 107
Location: Ohio | Here's my recently completed one. I have capacity for 42 lures at the moment, and I am still adding a few more. Final capacity will be 50.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C86Q-pZ1Hto
Thanks,
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 615
Location: Madison, WI | XML,
pretty sweet video, what kind of motor?
MS |
|
| |
|
Posts: 910
Location: South-Central VA | ShutUpNFish,
For every 10 degrees above 70 that you cure your lures, you cut the drying time in 1/2. If you use epoxy that takes 24 hours to cure and you cure at 80 degrees, you cut your drying time down to 12 hours.
I personally don't heat my lures until they are no longer tacky. Then I'll heat them to speed up the final cure time. The Diamond II epoxy I use is fully cured at 3 days but I can recoat lures in about 4 hours. I get all of the coats on that I need, then when the lure is no longer tacky, I put it in a heat box at about 90 degrees. This brings the complete cure time down from 3 days to 18 hours.
jeremy |
|
| |
|
Posts: 615
Location: Madison, WI | Jeremy,
Seeing tour clear coat jobs makes me seriously consider switching to the Diamond II. TOP NOTCH baits all the time.
Big fan of your style/work,
MS |
|
| |
|
Posts: 107
Location: Ohio | MS,
The motor is a Dayton AC Gear motor that I got from Grainger. It's a 6 rpm motor and it can handle 65 pounds. It works really well. It was $106 though, so it's not cheap.
Thanks,
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 322
| Here is mine I have to find a better type of motor. Every BBQ motor I have used has a dead spot in it somewhere. As it is rotating it pauses for 1-2 seconds in the same spot everytime. I use a 100 watt bulb as my heat source I can easily get it to around 90 degrees. I also have the light hooked up to a dimmer switch so I can control the heat better.
Edited by muskymandan 3/4/2012 11:27 PM
Attachments
----------------
 lure turner.jpg (83KB - 436 downloads)
lure turner2.jpg (95KB - 270 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 615
Location: Madison, WI | MMD,
Take the motor apart and you'll see that the play comes from some slop in the female slot (where the square shaft attaches) and the motor itself. Apply some metal lock..let dry and you'll remove about 90% of the slop...done it to 2 rotisserie motors so far both diff. brands.
Good luck!
MS |
|
| |
