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| i'm getting ready to add some more deck to my Skeeter tiller.
what should i be considering in terms of materials for:
- the deck
- the supports
- adhesives
- carpet
i want something that's both strong and light weight.
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Posts: 1764
Location: Ogden, Ut | MORE deck? you need a place for the FA-18s to take off/land and not just those pesky harriers and helicopters?
lambeau - 8/25/2011 1:50 PM
i'm getting ready to add some more deck to my Skeeter tiller.
what should i be considering in terms of materials for:
- the deck
- the supports
- adhesives
- carpet
i want something that's both strong and light weight.
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Posts: 1756
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | Can you post a picture of where you want to add some deck material? I have made a few decks for small boats that have turned out really really nicely. |
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| Can you post a picture of where you want to add some deck material? I have made a few decks for small boats that have turned out really really nicely.
here's the options i'm considering:
1) extend the sidetank decks
2) extend the front deck
3) rear bridge deck
4) rear splashwell deck
i need materials that can bear the weight of a caster without weighing 10 tons.
i intend to use them as storage too, so i'll be including a lid of some kind.
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 skeeterlayout1.jpg (21KB - 243 downloads)
skeeterlayout2.jpg (20KB - 234 downloads)
skeeterlayout3.jpg (20KB - 252 downloads)
skeeterlayout4.jpg (21KB - 220 downloads)
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Location: Des Moines IA | If it were me, I'd have a just encase box built to fill this space, and call it good. I've built custom deck extensions with built in storage, and it's a pain.
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skeeterlayout2.jpg (20KB - 212 downloads)
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| If it were me, I'd have a just encase box built to fill this space, and call it good.
i got a quote from just encase for that space already and the size of the cockpit space i'm looking at covering is at least double the ones you see in many other boats. Too expensive in my opinion.
i understand it'll be more work to do it myself, but that's the route i'm going to go, and i'll probably save myself at least a thousand by doing it.
so...suggestions on materials? strong, light, long-lasting?
Edited by lambeau 8/26/2011 1:47 PM
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Posts: 1756
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | I'll see if I can draw something up tonight on the computer. Aluminum works very well for this type of extension, but it would have to be screwed to the floor and the closest point for maximum security. You would also have to have access to a decent size break (for bending aluminum).
Marine grade plywood for the top really finishes things off nicely. See if you can get matching carpet from Skeeter to match. The rear deck will be very very hard to complete, the front will be the easiest as it is rectangular, and the sides will not be very easy as well. The front deck extension could sit on the floor without being screwed down, if you were to build it specifically that way. Do you want it to be removable or permanent?
Edited by RyanJoz 8/25/2011 4:36 PM
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| I would like to know how you like the handling of this boat over the Tuffy's you had in the past.
Chris |
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | i agree with Ryanjoz by framing it with square aluminum tubing and covering it with a riveted sheed of aluminum carpeted and then have a front-hinged anchor with side bars to support using rubber bungies (like a snowmobile hood strap) tying it down to the sides, so that you can just store simply and flip up and down from the back so that it's easily accessed and/or removed yet lightweight and strong (from the square-tubing frame) without leaving so much evidence if not in use.
you could really set it up with a versatile series of "lids" that way and use multiples if wanted/needed but not be forced to use them all the time.
wouldn't it be cool if you could have a retractable tonnou coverish sort of thingy that would just slide in and out of a rolled up cassette? ... like a window shade.
good-looking ride though ... i looked at them ... very nice.
be interesting to see if you take the bait from the flatlander troll ....
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Posts: 1764
Location: Ogden, Ut | As mentioned, it's hard to beat the strength to weight ratio of aluminum. Fabrication can be a bit more involved than some DIY projects however. Wood is (relatively) easy to work with but adds weight rather quickly, particularly w/ the square footage you plan to cover. I think the key is going to be a well thought out system of compartments that double as a place to stand rather than making a place to stand that has marginal storage capabilities. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Many of our work boats have decks w/ diamond plate aluminum - strong stuff, but wouldn't exactly work well with your interior as it currently is. And it's too slippery for my tastes.
S.
Edited by sorenson 8/25/2011 7:28 PM
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Posts: 1756
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | I didn't get off work until late. If you want I can still draw something up this weekend. |
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| If you want to keep a little floor space and have a need to fish three more effectively I would consider adding only one of your proposed long side extensions to the side of the boat you typically fish out of. |
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| this is very helpful, thanks.
at this point i'm leaning towards making a frame of treated lumber. i don't have the skill or tools to cut and weld metal so i'll keep it to wood where i'm confident.
what kind of additional waterproofing should i apply to the wood?
then i was thinking about having a sheet of aluminum cut to size for the top and adding carpet to that. securing the metal lid to the frame should be pretty straightforward and within my skill/tool set. and rather than mucking around with building lids, i'm thinking that i could build a couple pull-out drawers underneath for gear storage.
what thickness of sheet aluminum will i need for the deck?
what kind of adhesive is best for securing the carpet to the aluminum?
Chris: the Skeeter handles great, i've been extremely pleased with the ride and layout, to say the least. after sharing a day in the boat, a certain famous Lake of the Woods personality commented: "If this was a console you could sell 5 of them in camp tonight." my only complaint at this point is that one of the rear storage bins is open to the bilge area so tends to hold moisture. and obviously i'm looking to expand the deck space slightly.
of course, the 5 Tuffy boats i had previous to this one handled great too. i was looking for a deep-v fiberglass boat that was designed only as a tiller, which is something Tuffy doesn't offer. that search lead me to Skeeter, and i couldn't be happier. great boat and the folks at Skeeter Boat Center have blown me away with the quality of their support.
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | mike ... if you do have dimensions and an interest in working with aluminum ... i have an extremely talented aluminum fabricator friend who used to do work on all my race-sleds. he's a retired guy who is very reasonable in pricing and does really high quality work out of his house. he lives in rhinelander ... |
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Posts: 2378
| mike, sent you an email. |
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| mike ... if you do have dimensions and an interest in working with aluminum ... i have an extremely talented aluminum fabricator friend who used to do work on all my race-sleds. he's a retired guy who is very reasonable in pricing and does really high quality work out of his house. he lives in rhinelander ...
thanks, Sled! i'll be in touch in a few weeks when i get back from vacation in MN.
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Posts: 1756
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | Mike,
Most of your metal fabricating shops can fold the aluminum if you were to get the material. I have used indoor/outdoor carpet glue with good success. I would make the top lid out of wood because it will be easier to fit and it looks much nicer. Aluminum works very well for the supports and frame, but I would not recommend it for the lid. |
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Posts: 437
| lambeau, if you are planning to take this in and out of your boat, maybe consider leaving most of the bottom area open. Dont put the drawers in there, just adds more weight. You could have openings in there and just put that mesh netting across to secure items inside. Just an idea. You could certainly enclose some of it to add strength, but leave access areas open would reduce weight considerably. |
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Posts: 32954
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | 1) The liner in your boat is fiberglass, and is structural FRP/composite only where it's needed. It's not intended to be 'modified' with a bunch of screws and fasteners to hold a wood/aluminum side tank frame in the boat, and the floor may not hold screws well due to the composite materials used in building that boat. The sidetanks should be drilled and bolted through if you intend to secure the new structure to the inside of the boat (if you go with the long tank extensions), because you will fracture the gel and laminate with screws flexing as the added sidetanks vibrate and worse in rough water; the boat liner flexes some, believe me. That will happen bolting the new tanks in as well, but far less in fewer places. Make sure the tanks fit the interior exactly so there's no constant strain between the two surfaces.
2) You are adding weight, and a considerable amount if you use treated plywood and frame wood which has very little flotation value. Add 1 pound density water resistant/proof foam to compensate or make sure your max load is adjusted down to compensate, as the total load allowed will be effected by the modifications and could cause the boat to roll over if swamped.
3) The modifications will not last as long as the boat if you use treated lumber. Someone down the road is going to have to repair or remove the modifications, and have a damaged interior to deal with. I'd recommend using the front deck extension idea, and as few bolts as you can to acquire a solid platform. Be careful of your fuel cells and lines in the process. Bolt, do not screw, the deck framework together using stainless hardware. Use stainless wood screws to fasten the plywood spans to the frame. It isn't a bad idea to pre-drill all the holes.
Treated wood doesn't like carpet glue much. Use the best contact cement you can find and get both surfaces wet completely with the glue. Messy. Do that before putting the deck in the boat. Don't use other carpet glues, most won't hold well to treated lumber.
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Location: Eastern Ontario | Could you build a front deck extention like a table just a carpeted top with 4 legs. It could be lifted in and out as needed without altering the boat. A lot of gear could be stuffed underneeth
Edited by horsehunter 8/26/2011 3:57 PM
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Posts: 218
| As much as I believe Just Encase boxes are just plain silly, in this case I think it may be your best option. If you plan to keep this boat for a number of years (not your usual pattern of behavior), the high cost of the Just Encase box may be justified and add to the resale value of the boat. It may give you more options and be more versatile than a do it yourself project. Even if you don't keep the boat for a number of years, the Just Encase box can be removed and be sold separately or the Just Encase box may even fit your next boat and it can be designed to hold gear other than lures. I don't believe putting a wood deck into a new boat is a good idea. While it may have value to you, I don't believe that many potential buyers will find it attractive. Another option could be having a casting deck made by a boat repair shop. I had this done on a Stratos and two Tuffys and the cost was always less than $450.
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Posts: 393
Location: Hopefully on the water | Lambeau, Looking at your ideas of locations. My thought would be the front deck extension. As far as builing a box I personally wouldn't because of potential weight and the ability to be removed if needed. If it were me I would build a bridge (so to say) that would lay across the area you are looking to extend. I did it on Crestliner and used 3"x3" angle aluminum that I bolted to a frame made out of treated and had everything very snugg that I didn't need to bolt it down. It was very easy to remove if it was just going for a boat ride. You could have the aluminum resting on 3 side to help give the support and the open side (cockpit area) another piece of angle iron facing inward. You can pick up cut length piece at most box store in a variety of sizes, easy to work with for people (like myself) who can't weld much less weld aluminum. Pre-drilling holes made things a ton easier for the final assembly and SS nuts and bolts. When I did mine it was 50 some inches wide and 12" front to back. Total cost for me on it was around $100-$75.00.
The Just encsae would be pretty sweet in there but do add cost. Good luck and if you wouldn't mind sharing some pictures when you are done to see whick way you went would be nice. |
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Posts: 32954
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | I used starboard for a modification in my 1690 Patriot, and it held up well; I used the nylon impregnated stuff. I t was gray, and had a smooth surface. It was 1/2" as I remember, and the lids were fine. I bolted the frame together and bolted the top to the frame countersinking the bolts. More work, but better looking when the carpet was on.
Carpet lifted off it until I used a good contact type weatherproof carpet glue, though.
Still, the structure will flex at a different rate than the liner, so I'd bolt her through. |
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