|
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | For those using a table saw to cut out lip slots, how did you find the right blade? I have tried three blades now, two are too wide and one a bit narrow. I have put a caliper on them but many have offset teeth so its difficult to measure the cutting width.
Thx.
Jed |
|
| |
|
Posts: 235
| Hey Jed, I got my carbide tipped blade at Sears. Its a 10" blade with 40 teeth. The blade I have cuts a 1/8" curf which is what I mostly use. 1/8 " polycarbonate. When I make some of my smaller walleye baits I buy the already made lips which are thicker. I made a jig and grind them down the thickness slightly on a belt grinder. If you can't find a blade that is the slot size you need, if the teeth are wider you can have it resharpened to the correct width. Depending on how much material needs to be removed, it could be pricey. If you were closer to where I live I could help you out as I used to sharpen carbide blades. I'm retired so I only do my own now. I know there are alot of thin kerf blades out there now but they still have 1/8". Hope this helps you out. Ken |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Thanks Ken.
What I am finding is just about every blade says "thin kerf" and the cutting width varies considerably. I have yet to find a blade that actually says 1/8" kerf. As I mentioned in my original post, the problem I run into is that most have off-set blades so one tooth points to the left and the next to the right so it's difficult to predict how wide the cut will be. I thought about just using the thinner blade and grinding the lexan a bit thinner but would prefer to not have to do this.
I think a 40 tooth blade is a finish blade so maybe I need to look at these. I have been looking mostly at general purpose blades. I might also look into having someone change the blade width for me.
thx again.
Jed
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 480
| Hi Jed,
I went to a good saw shop in Mpls that sells and sharpens blades. I use .100 aluminum and they specified a blade with a kerf that size. I had to order it and only took a couple days but it's the right size for the lips I use. Another thing to consider
is the run-out or wobble in your table saw. This will add to the kerf size. A blade that isn't perfectly flat will also add to the kerf size. You may have to buy a under-sized blade to achieve the kerf you need for the lip, depending on how accurate you tools are.
Not all plexi is the thickness it says it is as well. Check the thickness with a micrometer. This can vary from sheet to sheet as well as edge to edge from the same piece. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 235
| Hey Jed, I'll see if I can locate a place to purchase a blade that is at 1/8" stock. A 40 tooth blade is a general use blade with the alternate beveled teeth. A finish blade usually is 60, 80, or 100 tooth. As far as blade wobble goes that shouldn't be a problem unless your using a cheap thin blade. If nothing else cut a slot in a blade to what size you need even if it takes a couple of cuts. Then go to Sears or someother store that handles blades that aren't packaged and you can check the width of the cut with your piece of wood. I'll be in touch as I may get to town sometime this week. Hope this helps. If the teeth are straigh across that is mainly for ripping and will work but alternate beveled are general purpose used for all types of cutting. Hope this helps. If I can help in any other way pm me and I'll see what I can do for you. Ken |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Thanks again............I don't think the blade is wobbling Ken, looks perfect to me. I am going to do some further experimenting this eve.
Jed |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Got it figured out..................thanks again! |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1529
| standard 10 inch .40 tooth. we ryb 6 bloks every pass thru the saw. . normally cutting lipslots wont heat or warp blades in softwoods. watch for resin build-up on your blades. |
|
| |
