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Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] More Muskie Fishing -> Basement Baits and Custom Lure Painting -> home made double 10's not turning well. |
Message Subject: home made double 10's not turning well. | |||
Esox-Nick |
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Posts: 4 | hey guys, im new to the muskie lure building scene, i've thrown together a few new lures and got a chance to test them out today. from what i can tell once they hit the water i crank em and they spin fine, but any slight pause or on the figure 8, the blades will cup up and not spin, i seem to be able to "pop" the rod and get them to spin again. What im wondering is, why is this happening? and any suggestions to allow them to spin freely? .062 shafts w/ magnum 10 blades s - style clevis (instead of twin clevis) magnum lure bodies they look alot like the preyfish viper mag 10's but a few have flashabou and a few others have silicone skirt materials. i'm thinking that maybe the "s" style clevis is partially the problem, or possibly that i used one painted blade and one nickel? any and all suggestions please. thanks. Nick | ||
bigbite |
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Posts: 1348 Location: Pewaukee, WI | I would suggest using a size #8 clevis if you intend to use them on a .062 wire shaft. If you only have the "S" type twin clevis in a #6 then consider dropping down the shaft thickness to .051. I have also found that on occasion the "S" type twin clevises get out of alignment and need to be compressed together slightly in order to eliminate any binding. | ||
Ebenezer |
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Posts: 210 | Nick - I don't have a definitive answer, but I've noticed that 10's with different blade finishes (one painted and one bare metal) are often the ones that I have the hardest time getting to spin consistently. I'm not sure if it is a difference in the metals/density/water drag on the different finishes, but something comes into play with different blades. | ||
Esox-Nick |
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Posts: 4 | i looked into the issue of the clevis sticking, and it seems good to go, no resistance at all spinning, im wondering if its possible these baits are too tail heavy. im going to try making one w/ less weight out back and see how it performs. thanks for the help so far guys! if you have any other suggestions feel free to add em! thanks, Nick | ||
Guest |
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lose the S clevis, get some #8s or bigger, i usually have to compress mine just a bit to get them aligned properly | |||
CheapTrix |
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Posts: 71 Location: Loves Park, IL | I had this same issue. So I asked a lure builder about it at one of the fishing shows last year. He told me to find a drillbit slightly larger than the holes in the clevis and basically bore out (not all the way through) the opening on both sides of each hole of the clevis. Do this by just turning the drillbit in my hand, not in a drill. Essentially what you are doing is countersinking the holes, not making them larger all the way through. He told me the flatness inside the holes make them "stick" to the shaft and prevent spinning in some cases. I tried it and haven't had a problem since. I hope this make sense, if not, I could try to explain the process better. | ||
Esox-Nick |
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Posts: 4 | cheap trix - i understand completely what you mean, and i will give it a shot. Thanks for the reply! | ||
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