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Posts: 28
| First crack at lure crafting and wanted to post pics for each step I take to collect some pointers for all you veterans here on the forum.
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 IMG00269-20110220-2224.jpg (99KB - 135 downloads)
IMG00270-20110220-2226.jpg (84KB - 153 downloads)
IMG00271-20110220-2226.jpg (82KB - 141 downloads)
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Posts: 28
| Any suggestions on weighting and through wire vs. screw eyes would be much appreciated. |
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Posts: 230
| Love the shape of the first bait, very well done. Your first step would be to seal them, there are many different ways to do this. Do a search on sealing and you'll come up with many different answers. As far as screw eyes vs. through wire, what type of wood are they? Looks to me like Balsa. |
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Posts: 110
| If you're installing a lip, it's much easier to cut the lip slot before any shaping, while the stock is still flat. This also applies to your centerline for hook hangers. Don't know if that's the case here, but if not, it's something to consider if you decide to do a crankbait. |
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Posts: 28
| they are balsa. I decided to go with soft wood for my first time
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Posts: 225
Location: Nordeast Minneapolis | The biggest thing I did wrong on my first attempt at making lures was lack of weight.
I'd made up half a dozen different lures that I was really excited about, put lips and hooks on 'em, snuck into a friend's apartment building that had a swimming pool, and couldn't WAIT to see how awesome they were!
And of course, every single one of my 'taller than they are wide' (similar to your first picture) lures sat on their side like a dead fish, but with less action than a dead fish. There wasn't enough weight in them to get the lip down into the water, or to keep the lure sitting right. I was stunned. STUNNED! I realized there was more to making a lure than making a lure look like a lure.
If you're planning on making cranks and gliders, I would suggest doing a little research on some of the posts on here about weighting lures. For myself, on (for example) an 8" shad profile crank bait, I'll drill a hole about 3/8" diameter, about an inch to an inch and a half long and about an inch deep. I use a cordless drill, drill bits to start the holes, and a router bit to clean it up. Then I use a torch and melt (outside) tire lead weights in an old pan from a thrift store, and pour the melted lead into the hole. Then I epoxy and sand over the lead. I suspect you could also use lead shot, and just fill the hole with small lead shot. The trick is figuring out how much weight you need, and where you need it, for the bait to sit right in the water. Otherwise, as I have proven to myself, the prettiest bait in the world will just break your heart and sit there like a dead fish.
Good luck! |
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Posts: 28
| Thats exactly what I am worried about. I Read an article that showed me how to weight a lure to suspend. So I am going to add a little extra weight for a slow sink effect. The article also said not to get the weight too high in the body so it will siT correct in the water and not roll over when working the bait. All these baitsthe baits on here are gliders but have a few cranks in the works. How much weight was needed for your 8 incher because that could give me a rough idea? The top bait is 6 1/2" the middle and bottom are 5 1/2" |
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Posts: 6
| Fill a container with water all the wat to the top.
Submerge the bait and collect overflowing water.
The weight of this water will = the desired weight of a nuetral boutant bait, the whole bait not just the lead. |
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Posts: 473
| best advice I can give is make templates and jigs for everything you do
Take very accurate and detailed notes and dont rush it
Your work looks very good
When you get it figured out the next one is not left to chance
You will have everything you need to duplicate the original
Now I make the first one as a blank and usually never finished the lure it is kept for referencing |
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