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Posts: 416
Location: Madtown, WI | First off, just want to say thanks to all who have participated in this forum. I've been a long time follower and have always enjoyed looking at all the eye candy that you guys are producing! I've recently decided to take it upon myself to start making my own double 10 bucktails. I've already gotten so much great information already from paging through the threads, but I'm still having issues with my silicone bucktails rolling. I'm using .051 wire, .025 blades, size 6 clevises so I feel like I'm alright there. I've tried building them just like a cowgirl and also tried jointed like a glittertail, I've also tried flattening the clevises into more of a C shape, but I still have the same issue.
Has anybody else run into this issue and/or have any tricks up their sleeves? I'm starting to think that silicone d10s are just more prone to rolling since all my store purchased silicone double 10s are also "rollers". Would it help to try a bigger clevis, like a size 8? |
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Posts: 968
Location: N.FIB | the only trick I know is to bend the shaft above the blades,I have some cowgirls I have to do that to from time to time.I haven`t had any trouble with the nine`s rolling like the silicone 10`s do |
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| Use a small SOLID bead just behind the clevices. Do NOT use a hollow bead. The hollow bead is "rougher" around the holes and that causes more friction. The clevices should be in a perfect U shape, not a C or V shape.
Brian
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Posts: 20248
Location: oswego, il | Brian made some excellent points. Go with a small solid bead, less friction and the clevises in a U shape.
Besides bending the shaft obove the blades, you can add a bell sinker to the shaft of the bait, in front of or in between the skirt matterial. That will act as a keel weight and keep the spinning to a minimum. |
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Posts: 416
Location: Madtown, WI | nm
Edited by stdevos 9/17/2010 6:40 PM
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Posts: 675
Location: Twin Cities, MN | Make sure you have enough weight beneath the skirts, that was my problem. I have a bell sinker on mine and I also use weighted beads.
The blades create a lot of force, so you need weight to counter that.
Pal |
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Posts: 416
Location: Madtown, WI | Thanks for all the help guys. I put a solid 1/4" solid bead behind the clevises and it spun significantly less, but on an occasional cast it would still spin. Maybe I'll get some even smaller ones, see if that reduces the spinning even more. I'm sure it's fine, but that was kinda the whole problem I was trying to fix by making my own. I like the bell sinker idea, I'll try it on the front hook's split ring on the jointed one I made. I already have a 3/4 oz keel weight on the very end and the heaviest lure body offered, so I don't want to go too much heavier.
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