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Posts: 633
| Alright guys,
I have been looking at this forum for quite a while, and love the work I see. I was wondering if I could use PolyUrethane for a top coat instead of the 2 part epoxy that most people use. Otherwise would a Polycrylic work? I just don't know if I want to do the mixing. Have you guys tried it, and what were the results?
Thanks,
Lance
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Posts: 1529
| poly will work on some lures. which wood are you using. will it react touching other lures in a baitbox. you would definately need multiple coats, unless the lures are foam, or plastic. on bigger baits epoxy,s are best. on smaller bass, walleye lures poly are ok. they do not add weight to throw out smaller lures actions. hope this helps. |
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Posts: 633
| I cut a bunch of bodies out of 1" maple, and have them sanded down. I just need to figure out the weighting. The bodies range in size from 7" to 13". This is my first shot at this, so I am hoping to actually fish about half of them. Otherwise I will look at the Sunday paper, and get the 40% off coupon to go get some Envirotex from Michaels. |
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Posts: 910
Location: Hastings, mn, 55033 | I use MinWax Clear Gloss Poly and havent had any problems. I had trouble on my creeeprs using Epoxy(D2T) because of all the holes that are drill for attaching hardware, and then the hole for the belly hanger to connect to the thru wire shaft, no matter what I tried I had water penetrate on some and it was causing the wood to swell and then the epoxy would crack and peel off in chunks. The MinWax poly definitely isnt as tough when it comes to hook drags and teeth etc, but it seems to hold up fine overall.
I am using red and white cedar for my baits and paint with Createx and Auto Air. I dip the baits in the poly, let dry a few hours and then dip again. I usually apply 2 or 3 coats altogether. |
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Posts: 1529
| castmaster.... a sealer will avoid water penetration.. we immerse all bodies in sanding sealer twice. this helps avoid paint lift from water. no lure is waterproof. |
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