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Posts: 222
Location: c.wis | I made some 5-8" cranks out of wrc, and some have large lip angles some have shallow, I put the line tie at the nose of the bait, and I cant get any wiggle out of them. one I made jointed, and it has some but not much. my question is if I move the line tie further from the body of the bait(on the bill) will I get more wiggle?
some are large minnow shaped wtih small round lips( like a floating rap) and the others are shad shaped wtih med. round lips. I fist started wtih the line ties on the nose of the lure, then tried moving them out but I had to re=engineer with a through wire, so itstill a work in progress, what thoughts have you got? the shad body is rounder but its no perfectly cylindrical its thicker at the back and thinner at the belly. and the minnow is, well its a minnow. any pointers would be great, ive posted these questions elseware but no one seems to have any answers????, ive read some posts on tackleunderground and other luremaking sites but im stuck. looking at some of the baits that you guys have made ive come to the conclusion that halfway out on the lip is the best, but I made them without a through wire, can I epoxy in a wire for an line tie if its anchored in the bait a few inches? thanks- |
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Posts: 480
| eric00l1, a picture would help with getting a response but I'll take a stab at it. Your line tie should be below the center line of the bait. If you transpose a line from the nose to the tail, you should be close. I can't tell if you've done that without a picture.
Also smaller baits are harder to tune than larger ones. You have less room for error the smaller you go. The further under the centerline you make the line tie attachment the more wobble your going to have. But the more wobble you have, the sooner it's going to blow out if you troll with it. It's a fine line between the wobble and the speed. Some baits wobble great when the are retrieved on the cast but don't make good trolling baits because they blow out under 3 mph. Some baits look great at 2.5 mph and faster but plow when you try and pul them at slower speeds. Depends what you want to do with it. |
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Posts: 222
Location: c.wis | here are the one im trying to get running right. I want the minnow to run 2-5' and the shad 4-8' with a med. wiggle. I have rattles in them and they are made of wrc, and the screws are epoxied into the wood. |
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Posts: 222
Location: c.wis | shoot, cant get them to load/ the pics are in the wrong format.... soomer or later ill figure it out |
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Posts: 222
Location: c.wis | thanks for the software, here are some pics. if anyone give give any more help! ive allready got some but would love to here your opinion
Attachments
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 lure4 [640x480].jpg (61KB - 112 downloads)
lure2 [640x480].jpg (58KB - 97 downloads)
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| i am not a expert but i think the first one need a larger lips,ant the eye screw closer to the lips.same thing for the other one
btw very nice lures,take your time,they have great shape.
look at the screw positioning at that link you will understand
http://www.muskiethrills.com/mediac/400_0/media/DIR_1725/DIR_1893/B...
keep us updated |
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Posts: 1530
| hi the screw eyes are to hi in the body. put them lower you will achive better wobble for sure. also iy you use a smaller opening screw eye you will reduce speed blow out. |
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Posts: 222
Location: c.wis | thanks guys, my first try at some cranks/ since these are not through wire I jointed them and they work like swimbaits now. my next batch will have through wires and im going to have the line tie on the lip. the shad shaped lure is still just sittin, trying to figure what im going to do with it. I just got the clear on four ive made when I get a chance ill post a pic. thanks again! |
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