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Posts: 134
| Question? Has anyone used rubbing compound to take the oxidation off of a fiberglass boat or is it to harsh. Whats the best method? |
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Posts: 32885
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Polishing compound and a buffer is best. Easy on the spped and how much you hit an area, it doesn't take loot to bring it back 100%. Then follow with a carnuba wax, and you will be blinded by the light... |
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Posts: 1663
Location: Kodiak, AK | How bad is the oxidation? Anything from like what Steve says, all the way to wet sanding are doable on glass. If it's light oxidation, compound is all that's needed, and you can forego the wetsanding.
Here's mine before and after, using 3M Color and Shine Restorer.
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Posts: 134
| Thanks Steve. The eight year old Tuffy Resort needs some sprucing up after being outdoors, upside down, facing the elements for the past eight years. |
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Posts: 1462
Location: Davenport, IA | I haven't had to do it to my boat, so I don't know for sure if it works, but on cars I use a claybar with some sort of spray cleaner (meguire's quick detailer or mopar showroom touch) and it works really fast to bring back the factory finish. I would imagine it work would great on a boat with a finish like that. |
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Posts: 3518
Location: north central wisconsin | I have some hazing on my gunwhales(light scratches) that were caused by my cover when trailering at high speeds. The finish has dulled there considerably. Do you think the clay bar would work for that too?? I have heard some say the only thing for that is to wet sand it, which I don't think I'd attempt without someone showing me on a sample section first. I did try to buff with some different compounds to no avail. Not a real big deal, and not so noticable by those other than me, but it does bug me, as the rest of the rig shines like new.
Edited by Reef Hawg 4/7/2009 5:05 PM
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Posts: 32885
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Use polishing compound and a power buffer, go easy and do not rush the process. |
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Posts: 3518
Location: north central wisconsin | I looked and it was Maquires boat polish that I tried, with a rummage sale(seemed to work ok...hehehe) power buffer. The regular polish is no doubt, less abrasive than a compound and could have been my problem. I guess I might go with a 3M brand, seeing they carry quite a variety of said products.... Thanks.
Edited by Reef Hawg 4/7/2009 10:33 PM
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Posts: 315
| i have no idea on buffing a boat but ive worked in a body shop for 5 years (mostly in the paint dept) and i know what 3M does to paint jobs, very good products *thumbs up*
their extra cut compound will take out 1500 grit scratches no problem (if you plan on wet sanding) they have a product called "perfect-it" that is less abrasive than the extra cut but has a hard time taking out sanding scratches on its own, itll bring back the shine really well (id imagine your oxidation) then they have a couple polishes....the perfect-it line of polish is great stuff "gray color" take your time with this stuff cuz yes if you get the panel hot it will burn through. then they have the new stuff which is called ultrafina "blue color" and that will remove the perfect it swirl marks.
personally what id do is try the "perfect-it" compound first and see if that helps without sanding (it has a special yellow wool pad) and finish it with the gray polish with the gray foam pad
if you have questions feel free to ask just my .02 -brian- |
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