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Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] Muskie Fishing -> Lures,Tackle, and Equipment -> Improving hookups on glide baits |
Message Subject: Improving hookups on glide baits | |||
DR in VA![]() |
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![]() Posts: 210 Location: VA | I seem to do pretty well with heavy glide baits, however my hookup ratio's are low with these, I just cant seem to get a hook into 50% of the bites I get. Any tips? DR | ||
WvRiverMusky![]() |
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Posts: 134 Location: WV | i have and old crane that hooks up great. it has three hooks with the middle one hung with plastic wire tight against the body. Sharp hooks, and slack line improved my odds, kinda like fluke fishing for smallmouth, whatch em turn and lay into them. | ||
CASTING55![]() |
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Posts: 968 Location: N.FIB | maybe try a rod that`s heavier,but won`t mess with the action of the lure much. | ||
Tackle Industries![]() |
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Posts: 4053 Location: Land of the Musky | Here are my takes. Just some suggestions. 1) Long shank hooks 2) T your hooks 3) Oversize your hooks slightly so the hook points extend out/away from the body of the lure JMO James | ||
patrick reif![]() |
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Posts: 42 | i don't have any comment about the bait, but i'd like to say that i'm glad you showed up here big guy. for those who don't know duane richards, he's an extremely talented rodsmith. i had him build a loomis for soft jerks, and love it. you guys should really check out his work if you get a chance. i do more lurking and reading than anythingelse, but there are some very knowledgable muskie nuts here. glad to see you made your way here patrick | ||
h2os2t![]() |
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Posts: 941 Location: Freedom, WI | I work my glides faster than most to the point of it being to fast at times and my hook ups are pretty good. One possible is that the fish are hitting the bait from the top has the bait rolls, I have found speed helps with that. On the old Bagley B flats fish had a tendency to do that a lot and there is a modification to fix them that Don Pfieffer had that added hooks to the side that kept the action. I have also seen fish hit the bait and miss the hooks because they are hanging funny. Try taking rubber bands and keeping a hook or hooks tight to the body. Tacklebootys suggestions where good also. | ||
Muskie Treats![]() |
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Posts: 2384 Location: On the X that marks the mucky spot | One of the problems I have is that I set the hook too fast with gliders. The best way to get hooks is to quickly count to 5 and then set the hook. This will give the fish time to turn. In the end gliders just aren't that good of hooking baits. Lots of material there for a fish to sink it's teeth into. | ||
DR in VA![]() |
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![]() Posts: 210 Location: VA | Thanks guys!!! Some good ideas there, I like the rubber band idea, I'll have to try that one for sure. Patrick you're a good man! I noticed your name here in a few threads earlier. Truth is I've been on the Muskie board a good while, but do more lurking than posting. Some GREAT guys here for sure, willing to help in MANY ways. I'm only a musky nut of a few years and really enjoy reading the "pro's" thoughts on the board. Better hang onto that Loomis Patrick, as Loomis is stopping ALL rod blank sales for the future. Meaning, the only loomis anyone will be able to have is one off the shelf, or off the shelf and have it stripped and re-done. SET THA HOOK! DR Edited by DR in VA 11/22/2008 3:12 PM | ||
Steve Jonesi![]() |
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Posts: 2089 | Put on some Eagle Claw 5/0 774's (nice wide gap, thinner wire in a very strong 4X hook)and when setting the hook, GIVE 'EM THE BUSINESS!!!!!! A fast and aggressive motion, not just putting a bend in the rod.Hammer 'em and KEEP REELING. The rod must be able to throw and work the bigger(heavier) baits, but more importantly, fight the fish. I net lots of fish for clients where the bait literally falls out in the net. Constant , steady pressure, of which the rod surely plays a large role, combined with a little luck, and she hits the net. Lots of good stuff here. Steve | ||
Beaver![]() |
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Posts: 4266 | T the hooks definitely ups your odds by keeping the metal further out away from the wood. Heavier/longer rods that can handle the cast and hookset also have the benefit of moving more line and wood or plastic when you move the rod tip. I use lots of pauses during my retrieve to give the lure time to flutter so helplessly that a fish can't stand it, and it also gives them the best eating opportunty that you can give them. When they get all of the lure in their mouth, your odds go up. Like Steve said, slam those hooks home and don't give up on the pressure. Beav | ||
DR in VA![]() |
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![]() Posts: 210 Location: VA | What is "T" your hooks? Anyone have a pic of the rubber band trick on the lures hooks? ARe you tying them to each other along the bottom of the bait or around the lure? DR Edited by DR in VA 11/23/2008 8:54 PM | ||
Beaver![]() |
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Posts: 4266 | Here's a picture of one from the top....I hope. Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
Tackle Industries![]() |
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Posts: 4053 Location: Land of the Musky | Here you go. T hooks are easy to do. Just need two pair of pliers. The rubber band trick is nice too as you will save your lure from hook rash. Personally I would not use the thicker rubber bands. Try to find the real thin ones that will break away when you get a hit. JMO James Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
mb79![]() |
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quicker harder hooksets , yellow braided line help alot i se most of my strikes on the line before i feel them . | |||
DR in VA![]() |
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![]() Posts: 210 Location: VA | Thanks James!!! That pic is worth much, now I "get it". mb79, Al I use is hi-vis Yellow Power Pro! ![]() DR | ||
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