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Posts: 29
| A friend of mine has asked me to paint some spinner blades but the only thing I have painted is Wood?
Can Some one tell me how to paint spinner blades or a web site that explains the process?
Thanks
Joe |
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| powder=easy and great result |
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| powder=cracked and flaking paint, even if you bake it. unpolished brass+the right primer=great results. |
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Posts: 676
Location: Wisconsin | Does anyone rough up the surface before applying the primer or just straight on? |
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Posts: 281
Location: Girdwood, Alaska | what type of primer do you use? |
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Posts: 1529
| depending on how many you plan on doing. send me a pm. |
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Posts: 29
| These are the blades My friend asked me to paint?
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| I'm in a similar perdictament. I just bought 4,000 blades for night crawler harnesses that I'll be tying and they are all polished. Is there a way to avoid the powder paint and get a good hard finish on this without having to sand 4,000 blades? I'm also interested in seeing how you guys do certain effects on the blades. Right now I got 3 test blades painted black. One is a size 4 colorado brass. The other 2 are colorado's size 3 and a half. One is scuffed up with sandpaper and the other is not. I want to put the mesh cloth over the top of the blades and paint them. I'm afraid if I put the cloth nice and tight that when I pull the cloth up I'll smudge it. But if I don't put it on the blade then the surface closest to the cloth looks ok but the rest gets smudged. HELP!!! Swizzle |
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| Guest - 1/16/2007 5:35 PM
powder=easy and great result yes and chip resistant. |
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| anybody know if this product is good ??
http://www.ispikeit.com/shop/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=2&subcat=14...
Edited by ron f 8/19/2007 2:27 PM
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Tommy Harris has some of the coolest blades I've seen on the market...
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| If you are looking to compleatly paint the blade, NAPA make a very good self-etching primer that is awsome for metal. It has chemicals in it that actualy etch the surface of the metal you are painting to insure a good bond. Used to be you could only get is at Sherwin Williams Auto Paint stores, but now NAPA handles a brand of it. It comes in an aerosol can so clean up is as easy as it comes.
Hope this helps. |
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Posts: 5
| I recently painted a couple size 10 Colorados using rustoleum primer and Rustoleum paint. After a week of use it's still on the blades. |
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| I read somewhere that the spike it blade dip needs to be re-applied after some use. I want to be able to have a nice hard finish that will keep my customers coming back for more. I'll definately look into the acid etch primer at napa. I wish I knew that earlier I was there this morning. Right now I'm doing a test with colorplace paint from walmart. I have 2 scuffed blades and 2 regular polished nickle blades. I took 1 scuffed blade and one unscuffed blade and painted them green and after a bit of drying I clear coated them. The clear coat looks like it removed trace amounts of the green paint on the edges. I might have to wait for the paint to dry for a week first. The other 2 blades I also painted green but only added another light coat of green after it dried a bit and it looks better. It says it takes 4 hours to dry so I'll wait until morning and put them in some water for a day or two and then give them a swirl and a scratch test. Hopefully the paint will hold up good and be scratch and chip resistant. I'll probably end up going with the acid etch primer and then the colorplace paints. Where can I get better colors though? I'd love to find chartruese and pink and glow to name a few. Swizzle |
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Posts: 2112
Location: The Sportsman, home, or out on the water | I am no expert on painting blades. However, good friend gerry Carrol asked me to custom paint some blades for a customer of his. You gotta scuff the $%^& out of the blades to make them grab anything(including the edges of the blades). Sharp edges on anything makes it hard to grab. |
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| Well I went ahead and painted the blades quick and dirty like. With the money I make off of these one's I'll be buying some acid etch primer and try that stuff. If I still can't get a satisfactory paint job after that then I'll scuff up a few and then try the acid etch versus just regular paint. The paint on these will come off if you take a thumb nail and scratch it intentionally. I'm hoping no one does that. I've been selling these for $9 a card. This is the first time I'm using my own card stock. The pic you see on the card is my own art work. I still need to draw a walleye, a pike and a bass. Tell me what you think. Swizzle
[IMG]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n35/swizzlenutz/Image015-5.jpg[/IMG] |
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Posts: 572
| Makes me concerned about the quality of painted blades on the market. |
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| Mine or the market in general? I don't plan on doing a so/so job on these consistantly. I'm gonna keep learning by my mistakes and hopefully put out a slightly better product then most by next year. I already learned the hard way that the cheapest hooks aren't the way to go. I have about 600 more hooks to get rid of before I buy me some good eagle claws. I just need to find a place that I can buy them in bulk lots of 1,000 or more. 1,000 hooks is only good for 500 lures and I tied 96 lures in 3 days and sold almost all of them. Once I get some better quailty equipment and a good system down I should be able to tie 100+ in a day. One thing I am being very cautious on is tying a good snell. These ones are tied good and won't come untied. Next will be to improve and perfect my paint job and get the best quailty line for the job. I'm open to any suggestions. Right now I'm tying with 10# flourocarbon. I'm gonna jump it up to 12# for my walleye rigs. If you guys see a way to improve on what I'm doing then by all means be a critic. Honestly if I could afford it I would throw out the rest of the hooks I have now and order me some eagle claws. Swizzle |
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Posts: 572
| hopefully, others selling painted blades take more pride in their products than Swizzle does.
I don't want to buy painted blades that are merely spray painted. Heck, I've spray painted a blade before. Well, I think everyone knows the results of that. Of course, I knew it wouldn't hold up but was at a lake and wanted a painted blade.
So, when Swizzle sells a painted blade that is merely spray painted and knows the quality sucks.........THAT SUCKS.
Yep, Swizzle's comments are well worth noting......he explained his views very well....too well for me. |
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| I appologize for the poor paint job and I'm sorry you feel this way. I really want more opinions on how to improve what I'm doing. Do you think I should be using an airbrush? I do want to take some pride in what I'm doing and I know that I can't really do that yet with the way I'm starting out. I should be going back to work in another week or 2 and once the bills are caught up then I'll be able to fully stock the best parts and pieces. Everyone I've showed my blades to so far really like the way they look. So I think the looks are fine its just the paint quality that is questionable. This is not water soluable paint. I've soaked these in water overnight and swished them around really fast. Then I pulled them out and did a scratch test on the paint and there was no difference between the dry blades and the ones that soaked for a period of time. If you don't like what I'm doing then instead of critizing me maybe you could give me your honest opinion on how I could change that. I want to put out a good quality product that I can be proud of and not just another mediocre lure. Swizzle |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Swizzle,
Musky Bob is having a hard time reading and understanding what you are doing, and obviously doesn't appreciate your desire to improve the product. Don't let him bother you, just keep asking questions and the lure builders here will do their best to help you get past your startup issues.
Bob, Swizzle is tying walleye spinner rigs. I buy a few dozen of those a year, and sprayed blades are pretty common in that product. A snell lasts a few fish; unlike a spinnerbait or bucktail the durability of the paint isn't as critical, and the blades don't get as beat up. Will you please try to be of assistance, offer advice, and join the conversation if you have alternatives for him? So far you've just been flat unfriendly.
It isn't the application process as much as paint quality that determines how long a spinner blade will look good. There are some products out there is spray cans that are tougher than nails, I've painted a few blades myself. The primer coat needs to be compatible, and the blade surface prepared for the coating to hold up to the abuse on a large spinnerbait for muskies, but a spinner for walleyes may just need a quality coating and that's that.
I used a simple rock tumbler with sand in it to rough up spinner blades, don't know where that thing went. Now I just buy primed blades from Stamina if I want to paint them, finished blades if not. |
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| It doesn't bother me at all. sometimes we have a bad day and everyone is entitled to one ever now and then and I hope that is the case here. If these blades were the part of the tackle getting bit then I would have went with a much better paint product to start with. I was doing a search for painting blades and this site came up. I see that its a muskie forum and can understand the desire to have a super paint job. If I was making a $10 spinner then yes I would be taking my sweet time and doing the best I can to make each piece of the highest quality. These are constantly being snagged on bottom and lost so they need to be cheaper. No one wants to continually throw $10 bills in the water all day. I'm only making $9 per dozen and that is far from being all profit. I bought 4,000 blades, a 1,000 hooks, countless beads, at least ten different colors of paint so far, clevises, bags, cardstock and added my own artwork to the cardstock and staples and bags. Not to mention the ink that I used from my printer to print out the card stock and the gas to deliver these to different places to sell. If I made more money per lure then yes I would spend more time and buy a decent air brush and do each blade as a work of art. Once you figure out all the cost and time I put into making these so far, I'm still in the hole. I have yet to make a profit and probably won't for some time. I just spent more money on floats because my last 5 cards I sold previously sold out in less then 2 weeks. They must be working because the other night crawler harnesses that are sitting right next to these ones are still setting there and people are coming back for the ones I'm making. I could continue to put out a so/so item and continually sell it but I do want to improve and make sure that all my customers keep coming back for more. I appologize if the way I worded my post rubbed you the wrong way Bob and I hope that we can be friends in the near future. I don't expect an appology but I do want the feedback of those who are most critical of what I'm doing so even though your reply was a bit harsh I do want your honest opinion. Thanx for reading. Swizzle |
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Posts: 572
| Sorry. I didn't realize the blades were ONLY for walleye spinner rigs. Somehow, I kept thinking about the larger painted blades for muskie fishing. I guess I also reacted to "quick and dirty".....sorry.
Swizzle, I'm sorry and good luck on your products.
Another source for information might be
http://www.tackleunderground.com/index.php
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| I tell you what Musky Bob. When I get a product that I am proud of I'll mail you one free of charge. No hard feelings. A lure like this wouldn't last past the first musky. I do have an idea or 2 on how to make a decent Musky Spinner. I don't have a wire bender so I've been using 30# black steel leader. I actually like the wire leader better then regular wire spinners. Which do you prefer for the tail feathers? I like squirrel tail myself. Swizzle |
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Posts: 572
| Swizzle, sounds like some day you may be making an inline "bucktail" spinner bait. Your choice of squirrel tail is probably the best. I believe Mepps uses squirrel tails on a lot of their smaller bucktails.
As to the painted blades, I think I will scuff up a couple of blades and use a self etching primer before painting. I merely want to paint a few blades.
If I was into manufacturing, I'd probably contact Lake Land Inc. and Worth Co. for spinner blades and other compotents. I think they offer custom painting, etc. It may be cheaper to let others do the painting, etc. http://www.lakelandinc.com/index.html
http://www.worthco.com/fish/
Hagens might be another source.
http://www.hagensfish.com/catalog.htm
I've seen other basement builders use Captain Hooks Warehouse for hooks. I believe most of their hooks are sold in quantities of 100, but you might ask about discounts for 1,000 or more. Just a thought. Of course, you may be able to go directly to the hook manufacturer or distributor.
http://www.captainhookswarehouse.com/index.cfm?page=home
Perhaps one of the blade companies can tell you a cost effective way to paint their blades.
Good luck.
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| I just went to NAPA and got the acid etch primer and even on that it says to scuff the blades. I really want to throw them in my rock tumbler but I think it would be best to spend a few hours on my wire wheel scuffing up each one seperately. I want to keep the backs shiney because it helps to reflect the bead colors better. I haven't tried lakelandinc yet. I just placed an order with the worth company this morning for 1,000 clevises. I'm gonna need more in a few weeks but hopefully this will keep me busy for a bit. I placed an order 3 weeks ago with Hagan's and after a week I called them to check on my order and they hadn't even mailed it yet. The woman told me it would be 3 or 4 days before it got shipped, then I'd be waiting for 3 or 4 more days after that. So I cancelled my account there. I should sign up again. I think there beads were the cheapest I've found so far. For now I really like the hands on feel of custom painting my own blades. That way I can give a few different samples to customers on how I can paint them and let them choose the colors and style paint job. Once I get rolling I'll go ahead and get an airbrush and a good air compressor and really start creating pieces of art. Thanx for the links. I'll check out lakelandinc today and I just bought a beading catalog today just for the websites on the back page. Hopefully I'll find some good wholesale bulk beads real cheap. Swizzle |
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| That Capt hooks warehouse is definately going to be the way to go. I can get a 15% discount on orders of 1,000 hooks. I can see a $120 order to him in the near future. Thanx Bob. Swizzle |
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Posts: 339
Location: Maryland | I know this is an old thread but i was wondering if anyone has used this on spinner blades? Does it hold up? Do you still have too scuff up the blade?
http://www.staminainc.com/paint/quickcoat_luredip.html
Edited by TheMuskyMan 1/21/2008 4:29 AM
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Posts: 1529
| we usaed to do them in production. the best we found was. ppg epoxy primer white. lo bake and then paint then use dupont 2500s clear bake at 155 5 minutes. plated or not they last years.. pm me |
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