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| What kind of leaders do you guys use for #14 and #12 husky jerks for pike? ive tried a few different ones but they all seem to heavy and drag down the front of the bait. I've been thinking about going with flurocarbon leaders, but dont know what lbs test to use. I just watched in-fisherman's summer pike patterns dvd and it looks like they are using wire leaders. Thanks for the help. |
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Posts: 2323
Location: Stevens Point, WI | When I go to Saskatchewan for big pike, my #1 lure is a husky jerk. I'm not sure if you caught the In-Fisherman segment with Jim Kalkofen and his dad Clarence, but what we have found to work the best is the Tyger leader material. Not saying this is the only kind to use, I'm just saying for husky jerks, the tie-able leader material really has shined well for us. I think with this leader material, your able to match the weight or lb. test of your desire for best action to the lure. When were up there, were looking for the bait to stay naturally buoyant, meaning it won't rise, nor sink. But we actually tie the leader material right to the bait and put a swivel at the other end. Pm me if you have other questions, I've actually played with combination a lot with multiple trips in May for big post spawn Pike in the dark shallow back bays. |
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Posts: 1764
Location: Ogden, Ut | Tyger leader works good as does Cortland's Toothy Critter leader material. They are both tie-able and with some practice, your knots even don't look half bad. I have also used South Bend's Invisa-leader. They're ok, but recognize that they're probably the weak link in the system...they have the advantage of being very inexpensive and available at most WalMarts.
S. |
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Posts: 154
Location: Appleton, WI | Not sure of how big the pike are you are talking about but I agree for the big ones the tieable leaders are great or I also use 30 lb fluoro for them too. |
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Posts: 2752
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | I'd recommend a 80lb fluorocarbon leader, i.e., minimun weight on a suspending lure. If you want to use steel- go with 80lb Tyger. It also tie's easier than the Cortland and is also extremely kink resistant. (I have used all three). I use the Tyger on my Preque Isle sucker quick strike rig's. But, I still prefer fluoro for all of my casting lures. Yeah, I've also had a lot of discussions w/ guy's like Norm Wild (who says he will never ever use fluoro again!). Yes, you can lose a fish for any number of reasons. If you want insurance, use the Tyger leader material. However, I'd also ask: Why are fluorocarbon and extra-hard mono's so popular with saltwater fisherman? Will I lose that fish of a lifetime because I fish fluoro? I don't think so. But, then I'm also backing off the drag immediately after the hook set. Don't get me wrong, I still put a lot of pressure on the fish to get it into the net quickly. Yes, I've had fluoro leaders that were damaged by muskies & pike. But the damage has been limited to like ~ 20% of the diameter of the fluorocarbon so a 80lb leader now becomes a 64lb leader. If you put that much pressure on the fish, you are taking much bigger risks than necessary to get the fish to the net & safely release it!
Have fun!
Al |
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Posts: 132
| I use the #14 Husky Jerks and the Bomber A-Salts a lot and yes, some leaders will kill the action.
I use .013 single-strand wire haywire twisted to a #3 Duolock snap on one end and a #7 or even #10 crane swivel on the other end.
I have never had any terminal tackle fail doing this, but I am using this on either a heavy spinning outfit or a bass type flippin' rod with 17# mono.
Get the bronze color wire.
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