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| Well here's my new soft spinners. I call them soft spinners because I made them with 30# test steel leader material instead of solid wire. I love the way these look. I should mention that the spinner on the top has a red belly. The pic isn't really bright enough to show it though. My only question on these is the loop at the top. Do you guys think it should be smaller? Should I add a barrel swivel or should I just leave it as is. I don't have an extra black and red that I did earlier today. I already sold the card and the first customer that saw them was quick to grab one. I want to hear your honest opinions. Thanx, Swizzle
[IMG]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n35/swizzlenutz/Image021-2.jpg[/IMG] |
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| OK So how do you add a pic? Swizzle
[IMG]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n35/swizzlenutz/Image021-2.jpg[/IMG] |
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Posts: 4
| Let's try this again. Swizzle
[IMG]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n35/swizzlenutz/Image021-2.jpg[/IMG]
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 Image021.jpg (80KB - 123 downloads)
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Posts: 572
| No to the barrel swivel....don't see any benefit. Some may not like it.
When checking the blade spin, you may want to experiment with a small solid brass or nickel bead behind the clevis.
I feel it helps on larger muskie bucktails. There may not be any difference with your lure size, but I think it does make a difference with the large bucktails.
Muskie Bob |
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Posts: 1504
Location: Oregon | Same comment as Bob.......if the beads right next to the spinner blade are too large the blade has to really get going before it will turn. Right next to the blad it's probably better to keep the beads a bit smaller. Oh, I guess unlike bob I like a barrel swivel at the top. Beautiful spinners.
RM |
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Posts: 676
Location: Wisconsin | What Barrel Swivel? |
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Posts: 4
| These are actually more geared towards pike and salmon and maybe some lakers. These only have a size 4 colorado. What size blade do you think I should go with for say a 4 to 5 foot musky lure? Our closest lake is mainly a northern pike lake that is part of the reason that these are smaller. Also what do you guys think about adding an extra blade? I was thinking about adding some squirrel tail on these ones and once I make the bigger ones use bucktail. Do you think I should leave the hook as is or add some buck tail to it? Thanx for the advice on the smaller bead behind the blade. Does that go for size 4 blades too? Swizzle |
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Posts: 2325
Location: SE, WI. | IMO there should be no bead in front of the clevis. Why put resistance on the clevis. Only slows the blade from spinning. Look closely at a Mepps...IMO the best spinners made. NO BEAD on top of clevis!!!;) |
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Posts: 572
| jdsplasher is right about "no bead in front of clevis". Leaving a little space in front of the clevis sometimes helps.
Of course, testing really tells whether resistence makes any difference on smaller lures, as well as, using leader material like you used.
When you look at Mepps, you will probably notice a different type of blade being used. I think they may be french blades.
I believe Mepps #5 will be a good one to use for sizing.
When I look in Staminainc at their .040 muskie spinner blades, the smallest blade size is number 4. I'm not saying one needs .040 spinner blades, just using that as an example to say most muskie fishermen making lures as a hobby probably perfer blades larger than number 4.
Personally, I like to use flutted Indiana blades for inline bucktails. I was disappointed when I tried to use deep cut Colorado blades with inline bucktails. Experimenting and testing will tell what you like the best.
As to weight......you probably will need some for casting. Some use the solid brass bodies to add weight.
Even rooster tails have different size bodies (or weights).
As to what works....a little resistence may be just what works best.
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Posts: 4
| I've been toying with the idea of getting a wire bender and making some hard spinners. An recomendations on a good bender that wont put a cramp in my wallet? I think I like the bright red beads myself and I really want to add them to a hard spinner but I think glass is definately the way to go. I read somewhere that the glass actually makes its own noise by rubbing together. Not sure how true that is though. I also want to get the rattle beads. My biggest hold up is money. I have a wish list 10 miles long. I want to get the french blades in 2 or 3 sizes, some larger willows and indiana's as well. I really appreciate all of the feedback. The reason these have plastic beads is because they have the colorado blade on them which spins at a slower speed. I think these would be great for deep slow trolling with a weight 5 to 10 feet ahead of the lure. They might actually be good for drifting the shallows for smallies as well. I never thought about the resistance on the clevis. Like I said I'm just starting out so all of this advise is very helpful. Thanx again Guys. Swizzle |
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| You need a solid bead for the clevis to spin on. The clevis turning will eat up a hollow plastic bead over time. |
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Posts: 4
| Good to know. Thanx for the info. Does anyone have a good link for cheap bulk metal beads? Swizzle |
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| http://www.mooreslures.com/ |
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