|
|
Posts: 457
| Are the painters/builders that work with different species of woods using a sanding sealer at all? I've been turning some baits of white oak, trying to get them to sit a little lower in the water. The thing I've noticed is that when I paint, no matter how many coats I have on them, I tend to have grain show through. I've tried a cellulose sealer, but then it seems like my paints aren't adhering as well. I guess I could go to an acrylic sealer, and see how that works, but I've never really had any success with it in the past.
So, I"m somewhat stuck on which direction to go here.
BTW, sorry for flooding ya with questions, I've been meaning to post both of these questions for a couple weeks. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 2378
| sealer won't hide the grain.
are you starting with a primer? not just white paint, an actual primer
Edited by BALDY 8/23/2007 10:28 AM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 457
| Yes. I'm using a Tamiyo grey acrylic primer. Three or more coats, and I'm still getting grain lines. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 2378
| you may need to sand the bodies better prior to priming... |
|
| |
|
Posts: 691
Location: nationwide | I would agree with Baldy on the sanding, if the lure blank has any raised grain the sealer/primer actually seems to accentuate the grain. What I use is rustoleum clean metal primer from home depot for my wood lures, which are mostly cedar but have made a few small jerkbaits in maple as well. I dip my wood bodies in the primer versus a paint brush or spray application.
Hope this helps you out.
Corey Meyer
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 479
Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | Jeremy,
Not really any additional information, but I like the looks of wood grain on these baits...gives a character that makes them special. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 457
| I'll try dipping. I sand everything to 2000 on the lathe. On my flat-side router bodies, I've been sanding to 1200. I can't help but think that isn't the cause. I wonder if it isn't just my choice of wood. My maple baits I've had not problems with.
As soon as I get a little more comfortable with what I am turning out, I'll get a couple of pictures up. Right now, they are nothing to write home about. Still very much in the learning stages, I'll be the first to admit that. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 50
| I use plastic pellets that i disolve in acetone ,as thin as milk for best result .It´s the same sealer/basecoat Rapala&Nils Master uses on their wooden lures . Around 10-15 dips is enough that you wont see any grain or wood structure at all on the bait. Most paints adheres very well to it .I use mostly laquer paints on my lures . If you get raised grain with this stuff it just helps the plastic to stick to your lure. I know theres a few on here using the same stuff as i do since i´ve shipped to them |
|
| |
|
Posts: 457
| I actually read somewhere, since posting this, that dissolving plexiglass in acetone, and dipping is used as an undercoat prior to priming. I might well try it. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 55
Location: SW Michigan | I've just started using some of Swedes propionate pellets on some mahogany, which has kind of an open grain. Multiple dips, like he said, work really well. In the past I've used Devcon 2-Ton because it was more readily available. Thin it with acetone, too. Don't have to prime either. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 179
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan | You can also use devcon 2 ton to seal the bait. Scuff it up with a scotch brite pad and the primer will adhere no problem. There will be no wood grain showing whatsoever and your bait is definitely sealed. You will be painting on a super smooth surface.
Rod |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1106
Location: Muskegon Michigan | Its the wood type. I use Cedar, Oak and Cherry. Cherry is the only one that doesnt show grain. If I sand seal the oak twice and pound it with white base the grain goes away. But why? Why waste all that time trying to make wood look like plastic? Like another poster said, The grain gives wood baits character. But if you really want to get rid of the wood look than coat them with any of the products that have been cited. Liquid plastic, epoxy and other fillers. I found another cheaper way that is faster. Its called wood hardener. It soaks into the wood and sets up. It is used for rotted boards. It can be injected into wood to restore its strtength. Minwax makes it. It will make cedar sand like Maple. Kingfisher |
|
| |
