|
|
Posts: 25
Location: MACHESNEY PARK IL | I JUST GOT SOME CLIMAX FLUOROCARBON LEADER MATERIAL 100LB WHATS BEST WAY TO TYE THIS STIFF STUFF I TRYED I COUPLE TIMES AND GAVE UP SHOULD I JUST CRIMP IT ,,,,,,,,,,IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE THAT MAKES THERE OWN FLUOROCARBON LEADERS THANKS |
|
| |
|
Posts: 416
Location: Madtown, WI | I recently purchased the exact same product as you, I attempted to tie it but it seemed nearly impossible. Instead I used a double barrel crimp. I tested it out and I bent the 150 lb swivel before the crimp failed, so I'm rather confident that they won't fail me.
Thorne Brothers has the crimps and they indicate which ones you need online.
Edited by stdevos 7/11/2007 6:34 PM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 127
Location: Brookfield | Try tieing it with 2 overhand knots, like when you start to tie your shoe but do it twice. When you tie the first one make sure to really bare down on it then tie the second. Thats how I do em and they are pretty tough. You can even add a drop of super glue to it to make sure. I havnt had a crimp let go on me yet but I know people that have and they lost some big fish, I'm not willing to take that chance. Hope this helps.
John |
|
| |
|
Posts: 358
Location: London, England | Use a nail knot |
|
| |
|
Posts: 35
| What I use to tie the mono leaders is called the Perfection loop/ knot.
Here is where you can find it.. http://www.angelfire.com/ia3/fishing/knots.htm
You put your swivel or snap on the tag end right after the 1 st loop that you do.
Edited by Miller time 7/12/2007 7:27 AM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 3860
| Search the threads for instructions by Extreme Mike. I copied him and have no probs with the 80# Climax I use.
(Bingo, this is my 2,500th post on M1.) |
|
| |
|
Posts: 2007
| Yes - crimp it! 3 years with 100# floro over 300 fish if you include pike (I think they are actually tougher on leaders) - and knock on wood - not one leader failure. GET A GOOD CRIMP TOOL. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 518
Location: Cave Run Lake KY. | I use 100 LB. hard mono for trolling ,I use two or three half hiches and melt the tag end of line never had one fail yet. |
|
| |
|
Location: Athens, Ohio | Buy Steath leaders and have no worries! The guy who makes them frequents this site, I highly recommend his product for both quality and service. m |
|
| |
|
| I pound a nail in my kitchen table & use that for leverage to cinch down the Knot. Just place the eyelet of your barrel swivel in the nail & PULL... I hit the knot with a bit of super glue for insurance & your good to go.
Also tried the crimp deal & that seems like its a solid deal as well. Haven't used one so my work there is un-proven.
The wife sure yelled when she saw the nail, the kids can mees stuff up but not dad!!! |
|
| |
|
Posts: 484
Location: St. Louis, MO., Marco Is., FL, Nestor Falls, ON | Here is a link to a tutorial on making proper crimps. I believe that many people who complain about crimp failures are doing the crimps inproperly. I know I made the classic mistake shown in the tutorial when I made my first crimp. Look at the tutorial...it might just help a lot.
http://www.leadertec.com/tipsandtechniques/crimp_techniques.html
|
|
| |
|
| Just contact John Bette...MuskyHntr |
|
| |
|
Posts: 724
Location: Southern W.Va. | Wouldn't hit a dog in the a$$ with a mono or floro leader. It's bad enough when a steel leader crimps or breaks. How are you going to feel when a musky takes lure And part of your leader to die in the depths?? If I can cut it with a dull knife, don't you think a musky could cut it with their teeth??
Mauser |
|
| |
|
| I would'nt use Fluro either but if I had to for some reason I had to....I would tie a knot AND crimp it.... |
|
| |
|
Posts: 484
Location: St. Louis, MO., Marco Is., FL, Nestor Falls, ON | Hey Mauser:
I'd like to see you cut a 100 lb. fluorocarbon leader with a dull knife. I think you might work up a sweat doing it. Sure it can be done, but I have been using the same leaders all season, catching many fish both pike and muskies up to 30 lbs. and don't even have an abrasion yet. If you use lighter than 100 lb. I think you run a risk, but not at 100 lb or above. Additionally, a properly executed crimp will not fail unless there is a manufacturing defect in the double barreled crimp itself. I think most of the stories about f.c. leaders failing or being bitten off come from lighter weight leader material or improperly made crimps.
I know opinions are like a__holes, everyone has one, but this is one based on my experience with f.c. leaders in both fresh and saltwater over a period of years. The tutorial I listed in my previous post really helped me learn how to make dependable, safe leaders. I think it will also help others. My two cents worth.... |
|
| |
|
Posts: 2007
| Great post Bob - and at $2 each with quality swivel and split ring (i rarely use snaps) - I dont mind replacing mine as soon as I notice even slight wear!
Between myself and fellow muskie hunters I fish with- easily 500 muskies in the boat the last 3 years without issue! |
|
| |
|
| Fluorocarbon has worked well for me the last 3-4 years without failure. 100# + is the key. I like the fact that it doesn't cut the fish up like wire. Stealth are the best if you don't want to tie your own. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1996
Location: Pelican Lake/Three Lakes Chain | For everyone that has never had a problem, there is the guy that has. In fact this guy has. Yes it was over 100#, 120 to be exact. Yes fish can slice right through it, you can't tell me otherwise, I have witnessed it in person. Its a horrible feeling watching a huge fish swim away with the possibility of not making it due to the hooks and bait in its yap.
No flouro for me. 
Edited by nwild 7/14/2007 9:40 AM
|
|
| |
|
| listen to mauser and norm wild-hell, i had a lil' 34" slice 1/2 way thru an 80# leader in 3 places the first time i tried it. now imagine what a REAL fish could do! not worth the risk,sorry- only steel for me now...
steve |
|
| |
|
| i think 80# is too light ....while it works for some applications, you run a much higher risk of getting bit off...also i think there is a big differance between using fluorocarbon for a leader vs using it for a q/s rig. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 484
Location: St. Louis, MO., Marco Is., FL, Nestor Falls, ON | Norm:
Just interested....what were the circumstances of your FC leader being cut through? Was it on a quick strike rig or artificial bait? Did the muskie have the entire leader in its mouth or was it on the strike itself. As I mentioned, I have never had it happen and am really interested in hearing from those who have. I have heard of many crimp failures or knots failing, but I have never actually exchange info with someone who had a bite through. Any information will be appreciated. |
|
| |
|
| I have caught about 200 fish or so on 200lb. SeaGuard flouro leaders...but had a bite-thru this week casting a Bulldawg. The fish was about a 45"er and the leader was shredded about 1/3 the way up on the hookset. I never loaded the rod at all before the cut-off occurred.
My best guess is that the leader was on the other side of her mouth when I set the hook - and the leader was sawed in two when it zipped through her teeth. Again, no significant pressure was applied before the leader was cut.
There's some food for thought. Sure has me thinking now...
BrianF. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 291
Location: Minneapolis | I've also had a bite-off on f.c. It was 80# seaguar. My bite-off was much like Brian F.'s. I was slow-rolling a spinnerbait on Mille Lacs and had a solid hit. When I set the hook, it went slack before I could really load the rod. The leader was shredded about a third of the way up from the spinnerbait.
Maybe heavier f.c. would have made a difference, maybe not. I'd caught a bunch of muskies and pike on f.c. prior to that bite-off, and hadn't had a hint of a problem.
I've since switched to Tyger braid, and, for me, there's no going back. It's limper than f.c., easier to tie, and it can't be cut. With 90# Tyger, I get all the suppleness and roll-friendliness of f.c., and none of the bite-off concerns. Tyger is not invisible, but I don't give a rip about that. It's also not very cheap at about $1/foot or more. |
|
| |
