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Posts: 399
Location: Burton, Ohio | Hey everybody! When do you go to thru wire verses bait size. I know the larger baits are made of high quality cedar. I know cedar isn't the hardest wood but works with water well. Plus the advantage of weight. I can see that the screw eyes threaded into it may have a limited holding strength to a point with the larger baits. Thus the thru wire system on bigger baits.
Lets say you a high quality maple in the bigger bait and thread the eye hooks into it after dipping the threads into epoxy. I have been tinkering with some. I ran the 1-1/2" threaded screw into it and had to take a break on each one and then finish it the rest of the way. The threads were really grabbing. Any thoughts? I just can't see them pulling out. I might be missing something.
Thanks
John |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | I use 2 inch screw eyes in my big Grunt with epoxy. I use my electric drill to get them in. They make an insert that the screw eye fits into for $10. I do not use it. I just losten my chuck until the screw eye fits and then drill er in! I did use a screw driver for the first few and know waht you mean. Gets old real fast screwing those in. I aslo use the high speed on my drill when putting in my screw eyes.
Here is that insert:
http://www.upnorthoutdoors.com/stamina/plug_hardware/screweye_drill...
Hope that helps.
James
http://www.gruntmuskielures.com
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| They won't pull out. If you don't believe me try hanging your body weight from one. The screw eye will straighten first. |
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Posts: 179
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan | Tigger,
We use cedar on our large musky baits and 2" screw eyes epoxied in. We have caught muskie over 40 lbs with no failures. They won't pull out.
Rod |
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Posts: 786
Location: Minnesota | Strongly agree with the above two. The wood IMO is not your bottle neck/weak point unless you use balsa wood! lol Look at some of the Weagle stories. I think Mojo uses 1 or 1 1/8 inch screw eye and I have heard stories of the split rings straightening out and the screw eyes not budging. And from what I heard, those muskies were monsters. The weagle is not a thru wire bait and is built like a TANK IMO. I think they went to triple split rings from double to close that bottle neck of weakness a long time ago. Maybe if Baldy or Jonsie reads this they would be able to comment much better on the strength points of a non-thru wire bait like the weagle. I have tested my Grunt and the only thing I have done to it is straightend out the .092 screw eyes. It took a LOT to do that by the way. My 100lb PowerPro woudl have snapped long before this.
James |
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Posts: 502
Location: Lincoln UK | Screw-eyes are indeed very secure and safe especially if set at an angle away from the direct pull. The problem can be if a screw eye starts to come loose and isn't noticed, as soon as it isn't tight the pull required to pull it out is much less. I have had several lures where the screw-eyes has become a little loose and required attention, oddly not cheap baits, had at least 3 HR's that needed epoxying in again.
Through wire is almost a guarantee that a bait no matter how battered will hold together no matter what. I love Mark Smith's Smuttley's and the fact that they are through wired just adds that something extra in the quality stakes, his baits are either cedar or maple and so there is probably no need for it but it makes me feel better.
The only bait I have ever heard of having the screw eyes ripped out on a fish are Poe's. |
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Posts: 691
Location: nationwide | Chico's middle paragraph states it best. I cut and pasted certain parts of it below.
Through wire is almost a guarantee that a bait no matter how battered will hold together no matter what. . . . . . . .and the fact that they are through wired just adds that something extra in the quality stakes . . . .. . . . . there is probably no need for it but it makes me feel better.
Those are the reasons I throw thru wired lures as much as I can, and try to make all of my lures as thru wire.
Corey Meyer |
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| I have had over the years several thru-wire baits get the bottom hook attachment ripped completely from the bait ruining the bait. This happened only on cedar or soft wood baits. I like long screw eyes in hard maple or poplar best.
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Posts: 691
Location: nationwide | I guess to clarify . . . . . when I use the term thru wire I mean all hooks, belly and/or spreader are looped through the main front to rear lure wire.
This will enable the lure to be turned into splinters and still have you attached to the fish.
Hopefully this makes sense.
Corey Meyer |
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Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | I use stainless steel screw eyes and use a waterproof glue which expands as it cures. First I pre-drill the holes and squeeze in some glue. Then I also use a high speed drill to install them using a small socket bit which fits perfectly over the top of the screw eye.
Without using the glue, the screw eyes can be tristed even after being epoxied but with it, I'd have to tear the wood right apart to get the screw eye out...trust me on that one! I did a lot of experimenting when I started doing this and this is the best method I came up with.
Through wire is fine if the maker enjoys all that extra work but it isn't going to make the bait any stronger in realistic conditions. I used to be much more concerned with my leaders failing...until I started using Stealth Tackle. Now I throw expensive baits without fear. |
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| Hey Snax,
is the stuff you use called gorilla glue? I've seen this really expands a lot when it dries on other things. |
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Posts: 680
Location: Muskoka Ontario,Canada | I believe that Gorilla glue does the same thing but mine is a different brand.
The kind I was using originally was discontinued so I switched to Elmer's Ultimate Glue which works even better.
What I like about the Elmer's over the other glue is that as it sets the bubbles are very small where the other glue made much larger bubbles. Smaller bubbles equals a stronger bond and less air around the screw eyes.
Hope this helps. |
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